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Old 03-21-2016, 09:47 PM   #1
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Furnace stopped working

I had an issue with my Atwood furnace after traveling from eastern Oklahoma to Thunderbird State Park outside of Norman Ok. Please bare with me on this story. I traveled down I-40 which is in a constant state of repair plus miles of road that need repair. After I backed my MH into my campsite I found that the aluminum screen on my water heater door had fallen out, of course you can't just go get one so I had to purchase a full door only to remove the screen and put it in the old door, only I bent the tabs 90`so it won't fall out again. On the furnace, the last 2 nights I was there, the temps dropped to low for my electric heater.( to cheap to buy a good one). I turned the stat to heat and later I heard the blower come on and then shut back off. After the third try it shut down completely. When I arrived home I removed the door so I could look at the led trouble indicator on the pc board. It indicated no airflow so I took the motor cover off only to find the sail switch was good, I had trouble putting the cover back on so I had to remove the pc board, that's when I discovered a stake on connector with an insulator was not connected. I'm just guessing but my gut tells me it was never properly connected at the factory. So instead of letting a repair facility charging you to much, if you furnace quits for no reason and had worked the last time you used it check your connections it just might save you enough to fill your fuel http://www.irv2.com/forums/images/smilies/thumb.giftank.
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Old 03-22-2016, 10:13 PM   #2
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Nice when it is the simple things. Mine is a Suburban NT-24M. Never has worked like I thought it should in the year's time that I have had the motor home. So decided to see if I could determine the issues with it. First thing I discovered was it was never bolted to the floor. Only thing holding it in place was a long screw through the exhaust vent. Then I get to reading the book and it clearly says you need 3 outlets. Was only setup with 2. I am waiting on a new electrode for the burner before I can try it and see if I fixed the issue. Guessing with one more outlet it probably will work correctly. It would start out fine but the longer you tried to use it the shorter the time it would run before it shut down. Really think it was up against the limit switch. Guessing the cabinet would get to hot by not being able to move the air. Seems like the manufacturers cut ever corner they can even back in the 70's when this home was built.
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Old 03-22-2016, 10:46 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by power guy View Post
I had an issue with my Atwood furnace after traveling from eastern Oklahoma to Thunderbird State Park outside of Norman Ok. Please bare with me on this story. I traveled down I-40 which is in a constant state of repair plus miles of road that need repair. After I backed my MH into my campsite I found that the aluminum screen on my water heater door had fallen out, of course you can't just go get one so I had to purchase a full door only to remove the screen and put it in the old door, only I bent the tabs 90`so it won't fall out again. On the furnace, the last 2 nights I was there, the temps dropped to low for my electric heater.( to cheap to buy a good one). I turned the stat to heat and later I heard the blower come on and then shut back off. After the third try it shut down completely. When I arrived home I removed the door so I could look at the led trouble indicator on the pc board. It indicated no airflow so I took the motor cover off only to find the sail switch was good, I had trouble putting the cover back on so I had to remove the pc board, that's when I discovered a stake on connector with an insulator was not connected. I'm just guessing but my gut tells me it was never properly connected at the factory. So instead of letting a repair facility charging you to much, if you furnace quits for no reason and had worked the last time you used it check your connections it just might save you enough to fill your fuel http://www.irv2.com/forums/images/smilies/thumb.giftank.

Just curious, how did you determine the sail switch was not faulty. I had a similar problem, ended up taking the sail switch out and it looked and felt fine. Still replaced it and problem went away. Don't know why. Is there a way to test sail switch?
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Old 03-22-2016, 11:50 PM   #4
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Just curious, how did you determine the sail switch was not faulty. I had a similar problem, ended up taking the sail switch out and it looked and felt fine. Still replaced it and problem went away. Don't know why. Is there a way to test sail switch?

Sail switch is just a micro switch.....move paddle to close switch.check continuity thru switch.
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Old 03-23-2016, 11:30 AM   #5
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Sail switch is just a micro switch.....move paddle to close switch.check continuity thru switch.
I took that test one step further and powered up the fan to make sure it had enough air flow to actually close the sail switch. I had ohm meter connected so I could watch it open and close under actual operation.
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Old 03-23-2016, 08:34 PM   #6
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FWIW- My Atwood furnace would start and operate normally for several minutes, and then shut down abruptly. (no cool down) Then it would not attempt to start, no fan no click. About 20-30 minutes later it started and worked fine for several hours. Problem repeated a few days later.
Anyway it turned out the 4 connector plug for the furnace was loose, only needed to be clicked together. Luckily on my RV the plug is accessible under the bed, next to the furnace.
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