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Old 08-24-2015, 08:56 PM   #1
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Getting Ready To Give A 2000 New To Us 28 Foot A Complete Service Ourselves

We picked up a 2000 Four winds 28A with the Chevy Express 3500 chassis and 7.4 vortec motor for a great deal. It has 53,000 miles and everything seems to work well. We plan to do as much of the service work ourselves.

On the list.
Onan Microlite Generator with around 365 hours:
Change the oil to amsoil synthetic four stroke small engine oil sae30/10w-30
Change the air filter using a wix 42302
Change the spark plug with an oem champion plug
blow out the spark arrestor as per the owners manual

Seems to be a little wobble in the steering wheel when braking so will
change the rotors and pads up front. Rotors are probably warped. it's
not bad but changing the rotors and pads are easy enough so why not.

Will drop the transmission pan and change the filter, gasket and fluid.
Has the chevy 4L80E transmission. Will probably stick with the OEM
Chevy fluid. Plan to use a oem GM Filter and gasket not a Chinese one.

Will drain the rear end and replace the gear lube with amsoil synthetic gear lube.

Will change the engine oil to Amsoil marine and diesel 15w-40 synthetic oil and an Amsoil filter. Should be able to do 12,500 miles, change the oil filter and another 12,500 miles before changing the oil again. Will send the oil sample to wear check USA for an analysis after the 25K miles to make sure the oil still has it's service properties. Oil analysis is very inexpensive ( $10 ) and lets you know what going on inside your engine in regard to the service life of the oil and if any contaminants are present in your oil such as coolant or from premature wear on bearings. https://wearcheck.com/

Will change the radiators hoses with oem or Gates USA hoses and drain and replace all the coolant. Will replace the spark plugs with oem plugs and replace the plug wires, cap and rotor with oem or USA parts.
New oem or USA made air filter.
New Gates premium belt or belts.

The tires are brand new but will take her in for an alignment.
Will grease all the fittings.

The four winds seems in excellent condition and looks like it was well looked after by the previous one owner and everything seems to work.

Plan to reseal the roof with liquid roof EPDM RV roof coating. Not sure if we need 4 or 5 gallons.

Change the shocks. Can get the oem 3500 express KYB shocks for a quarter of the price of the Bilstein shocks but Bilstein seems to be vastly superior to everything else out there.

Want to try and make sure we can get her as reliable as we can for long trips. The Chevy drive train with the 7.4 motor is solid and we still have the same motor in a 96 van going strong with 230,000 miles later.

Now just waiting for it to cool down a bit in North Carolina so we don't sweat to death while working on her.

If there is anything else you can think of that needs looking at or replacing, let us know.

Youtube is your friend for the DIY mechanic
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Old 08-25-2015, 08:01 AM   #2
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You have a very thorough list , but I didn't see anything about changing brake fluid. There are lots of posts about how old brake fluid can absorb water, the effects of the water boiling, and partial or total loss of braking function. Fresh brake fluid can eliminate a potentially bad situation. I now change mine every two years.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fourwinds28A View Post
...If there is anything else you can think of that needs looking at or replacing, let us know...
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1999 Safari TREK 2830, FMCA 190830, Safari International chapter
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Old 08-25-2015, 08:12 AM   #3
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Unless you are putting 25,000 miles a year on the engine, I don't agree with your oil change interval.
I think manufactures recommend 1 year for oil change.
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Old 08-25-2015, 09:50 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by George Schweikle View Post
You have a very thorough list , but I didn't see anything about changing brake fluid. There are lots of posts about how old brake fluid can absorb water, the effects of the water boiling, and partial or total loss of braking function. Fresh brake fluid can eliminate a potentially bad situation. I now change mine every two years.
Thanks, we will change the brake fluid as well. Do you bleed your system ?
how to you change the fluid ?

Thanks again
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Old 08-25-2015, 11:26 AM   #5
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Hi,

The desire is to completely remove the old fluid, and replace with new.

Here's a good link Oemy's Web Site - Tech Tips

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fourwinds28A View Post
Thanks, we will change the brake fluid as well. Do you bleed your system ?
how to you change the fluid ?

Thanks again
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Old 08-25-2015, 12:02 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fourwinds28A View Post
Thanks, we will change the brake fluid as well. Do you bleed your system ?
how to you change the fluid ?

Thanks again
If you need to ask how, it may be a good idea to hire a mobile mechanic to go over it with you, the first time.

It is your brakes!
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Old 08-25-2015, 01:31 PM   #7
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Quote:
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If you need to ask how, it may be a good idea to hire a mobile mechanic to go over it with you, the first time.

It is your brakes!
It came out wrong.
Have bled many a brake before, just thought there may be some newer easier system to bleed the brake fluid then the old pedal, hold and turn
method.
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Old 08-25-2015, 01:35 PM   #8
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Quote:
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Hi,

The desire is to completely remove the old fluid, and replace with new.

Here's a good link Oemy's Web Site - Tech Tips
Good link, thank you.
Looks like the two person pump, hold and bleed system
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Old 08-26-2015, 03:13 PM   #9
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Started the project today. Ran the Generator for 2 hours for excercise while running the A/C and used the Bissell Little Green Cleaner to clean the carpet in the bedroom and the all the seats while the A/C was on.

Drained the oil in the generator using the drain plug in the bottom ( Thanks Youtube ) and filled her up with 1.6 quarts
of Amsoil Small Engine 4 Stroke oil. No oil filter on this model Onan generator.

The air filter looked brand new so there was no point in changing it. Will change the spark plug when the generator is cold.

The fun has begun


Old oil from the generator and new Amsoil going in
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Old 09-04-2015, 01:28 PM   #10
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Used PB blaster on the shock bolts. Did not have to remove any of the wheels to replace the shocks. Jacked up the front a-arm
and placed a safety stand underneath. Leaned in on top of the front tire and grabbed the top of the shock stem with a vise grip and removed the bolt with a ratchet box end. Bit of a pain as the bolt stud was rusted. Then removed the bottom two bolts and
the shock came out. Replaced with a New KYB shock. Bolted the top
bolt and washers and then used a second floor jack to raise the shock up to bolt into the bottom of the a-arm.

Rear shocks were a little easier as no jack was required. One bolt on the bottom of the shock and two above.

Was hot, humid and miserable yesterday.
The original rear shocks were completely gone and once pushed in by hand they did not even move back out at all.

Lubed the center of the two drive shafts and also lubed the 6 lube fittings on the front end.

The main belt looked in perfect condition and was an OEM GM belt that may have already been replaced. The bottom radiator hose also looked in excellent shape.

Lots of pad left on the front brake pads and the rotors looked good so no need to change the brakes yet.

Slowly working our way through everything.

Picture showing the original rear shocks completely failed.
New KYB Monomax Box


New KYB Monomax Rear Shocks Installed
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