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BuddC · 11-19-2015, 08:53 PM

I have a 2000 Conquest Sport that just doesn't want to run! It only has 6000 miles and is in pretty condition, to bad it won't run. I went through Good Sam Club and had a mechanic check it out. He tells me there are not any trouble codes, problem is it won't run for more than maybe 12-15 miles before it starts dying. He doesn't have any answers what to do with it.
I want to have it transported from Myrtle Beach SC (Picked up NLT 23 November 2016) back to Fredericksburg VA by (Doesn't matter greatly when it gets there). It's a class C 27' with a height of 11'. Does anyone know of a good transport company in this area that may be able to help?

BFlinn181 · 11-19-2015, 10:18 PM

A 15 year old vehicle with only 6,000 miles is pretty low use. It runs for 15 miles then dies. No codes. Sounds like a clogged fuel filter. I'd put a new filter on and a can of Seafoam in the tank and see if it runs better.

Sea Foam Motor Treatment - Walmart.com

A failing fuel pump also wouldn't throw a code I believe, your mechanic could have put a fuel pressure gauge on and tested that.

Wdebarmore · 11-19-2015, 10:29 PM

My Ford Bronco did exactly the same thing after it sat for a few years. It was the fuel pump. Completely gummed up and full of the filter sock that fell apart. Had to drop the tank to replace it.

Bruce C · 11-20-2015, 04:36 AM

I agree with what others have posted, Fuel filter would be far cheaper than a transport, and likely the issue.

BuddC · 11-20-2015, 04:44 AM

Good morning, (yep, I am one of Uncle Sam's Misguided Children - active many years ago)
When I first bought the vehicle I replaced the filter several times before pulling the tank and cleaning it quite well. There was not a speck of rust but had residue from gasoline breaking down from sitting. Anyway I cleaned the tank, lines, and fuel pump and then drove it. It ran good (maybe 550-650 miles) until my trip here to Myrtle Beach - I had to limp in to get it here. When it first started the other day I crawled under it and replaced the filter in a truck stop. There was plenty of fuel presser at that time, anyway it ran good for 100 miles or so then started acting funny again; and right now it appears to sound great, but it scares me to try and make it home by driving it knowing how it was running the other day. I called several Chevrolet Dealerships and they said the don't work on RV's even though it's a Chevy Van Cutaway with a 454 engine.
I would rather bite the bullet and have it trailerd home and deal with it there rather than here. I am lucky in that I'm towing a little Honda Civic I can drive home.

BuddC · 11-24-2015, 07:43 PM

Well I got it home, transport wasn't cheap but at least it's home. But I am not sure owning a motor home versus a 5th wheel and pick-up isn't a better way to go. At least the shops will work on a pick-up! I did have one mechanic (not real sure about that) come out and say it's should be okay, it's not showing any codes. Mind you, it quits running after maybe 15-20 miles. I replaced the filter again and opened the old one - almost as clean as new. Anyway, next is put a pressure gadge on it and see if it shows anything.
Ran great to put it up on the semi low boy trailer - guess it thought getting a ride was good. :-)

BFlinn181 · 11-24-2015, 08:06 PM

Since you've changed multiple fuel filters and dropped and cleaned the tank, the crud must be beyond the filter. I repeat my earlier suggestion, run some Sea Foam cleaner through the system. The varnish and stuff you found in the tank is probably breaking loose from the insides of the fuel lines beyond the filter. The cleaner is a cheap way to go, you could also find a shop with a fuel injector system cleaner, but that will cost more.

BuddC · 11-24-2015, 08:38 PM

I will try that, but I did drain some fuel from the fuel rail and it was clear and clean. The part that throws me is it will run 75-80 under load for at least 10 miles before it MAY give a problem. I am wondering if maybe the fuel regulator is sticking at times causing a lean condition, then when I shut it down it releases and acts okay for a while. Has anyone ever heard of something like that?

Arch Hoagland · 11-24-2015, 08:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BuddC

I will try that, but I did drain some fuel from the fuel rail and it was clear and clean. The part that throws me is it will run 75-80 under load for at least 10 miles before it MAY give a problem. I am wondering if maybe the fuel regulator is sticking at times causing a lean condition, then when I shut it down it releases and acts okay for a while. Has anyone ever heard of something like that?

My grand daughters' 2003 Chevy pickup with the 4.8 V8 had the same symptoms for about a week.

Turned out it was the fuel pump causing her problem.

BFlinn181 · 11-24-2015, 09:09 PM

The only way to be sure would be to rig a fuel pressure gauge within the driver's line of sight. I would tend to think fuel pump rather than regulator, but seeing a decrease in pressure at the time of dying won't really isolate which component is the problem. Which is cheaper, regulator or fuel pump? I hate just throwing parts at a problem, but then you did already pay the long distance transport fees.

BuddC · 11-24-2015, 09:31 PM

Yeah, I agree with you about throwing parts at a problem. My thought is to go ahead and put my fuel pressure gauge on and drive it and see if I can get it to start this stalling problem. I think from what I'm reading is I could possibly clamp off the return if I can get it to start the problem and see if pressure builds up if it is starving for gas and it would probably run if it's stuck open.

I am still wondering if a pick-up and a trailer makes more sense. At least with a trailer you only have to worry about tires, wheel bearings, brakes and lights!
If it's the truck I could at worse case take it to a dealership. I twisted wrenches for a dealership many years ago, but was a certified mechanic for over 10 years. Many things have changed since then though including this old body...

BFlinn181 · 11-24-2015, 10:15 PM

If you've got a pair of vice grips ready to clamp the return line before it stalls out, that would show if it's the pump or the regulator.

Even if you were going to go from self contained to a tow vehicle and trailer, you're going to still have many of same issues common to RVs. Right now you're experiencing engine problems, with a trailer it might be wheel bearings, electric brakes, etc. You just need to find a mechanic that will work on your RV.

BuddC · 11-25-2015, 04:19 PM

Bob, I agree with you to some degree but of all the trailers I have owned I have never had a problem with either tires or bearings because I clean and pack bearings every spring and always buy good trailer tires. Yeah, brakes could give you a problem but electric brakes are pretty simple and if you had to you could kill power to them and limp in to somewhere for service if you had too.
Where are you guys at? I live in Fredericksburg Virginia and am retired. I decided that I wanted to go RVing for the winter - now not as sure. But will be somewhere warm for the winter. I really like the southwest in the winter, is really nice there. I was in Yuma two winters working with some people at the border and enjoyed it way much.

Jcf0527 · 11-26-2015, 06:58 AM

Hey Budd -

And first of all, Happy Thanksgiving!

Couldn't help but jumping in on this thread. I've had both trailers and now 2 Class C's - one on a Ford E450 with a V10 and now a Chevy 4500 with the 6.1 V8. I have experience with the "who works on RV's" given that my Ford blew the V10 west of Coumbia, SC and I had to have a new Long block put in (thankfully under warrant!).

Look for a dealer that works on medium to heavy duty trucks - they should be able to handle the RV. I would contact Chevy as well to see who does their warranty work on the bigger rigs in your area.

Hope that helps!