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Old 04-07-2015, 02:34 PM   #15
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new pump

New pump new filters going to try to start soon. No fuel was pumped in oil. I am guessing this, but i checked the stick since it has sat for days I would assume it would be on top of the oil by now. I don't see it but I will be changing the oil as soon i have it working again.
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Old 04-08-2015, 09:35 AM   #16
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carb reinstalled

Carb reinstalled, and it filled on the 2nd crank 3rd crank it started and ran. still need to road test for the issue but I have other things to finish first.
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Old 04-08-2015, 09:38 AM   #17
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Knocking then jobs off the list...
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Old 04-11-2015, 09:55 PM   #18
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If I am not mistaken the vacuum solenoid in question was an emission control device to control when vacuum advance was available, had to do with controlling cylinder temp and pressure to limit formation of NOx. Lots of weird stuff pre-computer era.
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Old 04-11-2015, 10:24 PM   #19
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Yes I believe it's emissions related. It has long been removed, I think I will cap it off and move the wires. Some where safe.
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Old 04-11-2015, 11:01 PM   #20
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If a stumble on acceleration continues to be a problem , and you have good accelerator pump action in the carb; then the next step would be to examine the vacuum advance plate in the distributor .
The plate is connected to the vacuum dashpot on the side of the distributor , and pivots on a pin as it is pulled , the plate has a stationary and moving section and 3 Teflon buttons to keep the two square to each other, as the top plate moves. If these buttons wear the top plate tilts and the gap between the , reluctor and the pick up coil ( the parts in the distributor that replace points ) as the gap changes so does the ignition timing, look for damage to the tips of the reluctor and the tip of the pick up coil. A new plate is required if you do find damage, if you can still find them, or a rebuilt distributor , the gap between the parts need to be set with a non magnetic feeler blade. 0.010" or 0.008" depending on the year.
If you can post , engine size 318 or 360 and carb type , Carter 2bbl, for the 318 , Holley 2bbl or Carter 4bbl for the 360, I'll see if I can track down a copy of the under hood vacuum hose routing diagram for you.

BTW. I worked 34 years at Chrysler starting in 1975, and had a 79, 1/2 ton 360 4bbl, for 14 years, that had the same ignition system you're dealing with. Feel free to ask questions .
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Old 04-12-2015, 10:31 AM   #21
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It's a a 360 with a holley 2bbl vehicle is a 78. I was told from holley that my carb is a 77 emissions carb. i still need to adjust the mixture, I think it's rich, I just have not done it yet. Any vac or electric diagram would always be helpful. I may replace the advance parts of the distributer, or just pick up a whole replacement later on, I did not think I wanted to replace the distributer it looks to have been replaced already (not the cap but the whole unit.)
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Old 04-12-2015, 10:50 AM   #22
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Do you have any info on where the rig was originally sold, could be CA , emissions vehicle.
Lightly bottom out the mixture screws and carefully back them out 1 1/2 turns as your start point and don't make further adjustments until the engine is at full operating temp, and the timing has been set.
Adjust both screws the same amount 1/4 turn at a time , your first adjustment will probably be in.
These engines were prone to plugging the intake manifold , crossover passage, and leaking EGR ( exhaust gas recirculation ) valves.
The plugged crossover will result in the choke coming off very slowly and in certain conditions , carb ice. Requires manifold removal to repair.
The leaking EGR can act just like a vacuum leak , poor idle and no reaction to mixture adjustment, requires replacement , or if local laws allow , a block off plate. The vacuum solenoid you have in your picture may have been part of the EGR control system ; it's vacuum activated.
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Old 04-12-2015, 06:39 PM   #23
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no egr

No egr installed, it blocked off. It looks like it's been blocked for a long time.

it runs now, I just want it running Best it can.

Here is a question when I cleaned the carb I removed the jets, but they rolled off the table. They looked almost identical and I reinstalled them. would they have been identical or close to? They may have been just a slight bit different?
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Old 04-13-2015, 10:47 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skyisme View Post
No egr installed, it blocked off. It looks like it's been blocked for a long time.

it runs now, I just want it running Best it can.

Here is a question when I cleaned the carb I removed the jets, but they rolled off the table. They looked almost identical and I reinstalled them. would they have been identical or close to? They may have been just a slight bit different?
Jets are in pairs of same size, so you are OK. If you look real close on the jets, they have a small number stamped, indicating the size.
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Old 04-14-2015, 10:08 AM   #25
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That's a relief.
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Old 04-16-2015, 07:54 AM   #26
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Looks like the solenoid that was used on the throttle kicker/demodulator system of the day. Two fittings on the end opposite the wires and the fitting where the wires are had a foam filter on it at one time. Carb would have had a vacuum piston that moved out to hold the throttle open at around 1700 rpm to help prevent backfires while slowing down.
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Old 04-16-2015, 02:50 PM   #27
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Thanks for all the input, I was not able to check in for a while. I am leaving it disconnected. And securing the wires.
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Old 04-18-2015, 09:56 AM   #28
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Two other common problems, these engines have , particularly if they have sat unused for some time.
The timing chain and gears, factory equipped cam gear had a nylon coating for quiet operation, the nylon will harden and chip off , causing the chain to jump. Solution is a double row, roller chain set up. If there is no sign of the chain cover being removed, JMHO. worth the $$ to change this before it fails.
Valve stem seals , harden and allow oil into the combustion chamber and exhaust. Most noticeable by seeing a big puff of blue out the exhaust , after coasting down a hill. With simple tools , available for rent in most places, these seals can be replaced without removing the cylinder heads.
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