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Old 07-07-2014, 08:15 PM   #15
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I have been using my standard 20 amp outlet and my AC works, but am I hurting the AC running it on low amps ?
You end up with low voltage. When the voltage goes lower you end up drawing more amps. More amps more heat more resistance more amps. If your lucky you trip a breaker with out hurting anything or melting anything. Low voltage does the same to the compressor in the AC unit.
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Old 07-08-2014, 06:33 AM   #16
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Bukiman...I agree with all the IRV2ers...that tell you...it is not good practice to run your RV low on shore power. The damage it can do is amazing and some have experienced fires and expensive electrical system damage. Time to think of the safety portion and get some juice to the RV or cut back on what you run until it falls below the wiring capability.
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Old 07-08-2014, 11:33 AM   #17
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Maybe this is a question for a new thread, but how difficult is it to switch a 30 amp Class C to a 50 amp? I am pretty handy with normal household wiring, I wired up my own 30 amp plug in my shed for the camper and have wired garages before, as long as it doesn't have to look to pretty. I don't know the extent of what would have to change in a camper to switch it though, it would be nice to not have to shut the air off to use the water heater and microwave.
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Old 07-08-2014, 11:43 AM   #18
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I have my coach ( 50 amp ) hooked to the 15 amp plug in the garage all the time when I'm home, using a 100" contractor grade extension.
BUT. Only the converter/charger is operating to charge the batteries , and the fridge 48 hours before trips. All other loads in the coach are shut down.
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Old 07-08-2014, 11:54 AM   #19
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Can I just plug in a standard outlet from my garage for shore power or do I need a dedicated 30 amp plug in ?
How many amps needed for shore power?

As many amps as you plan on using while hooked up to shore power.

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Old 07-08-2014, 12:39 PM   #20
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Beeker... the 50 amp type RVs have a 240v incoming line to the breaker....the 30 amp systems are 120v.... Now with that said...a talented person putting in a new wired service in the RV can handle the upgrade. I do not think it is hard...I think it is planning and money that makes these move towards fruition.
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Old 07-08-2014, 12:51 PM   #21
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Maybe this is a question for a new thread, but how difficult is it to switch a 30 amp Class C to a 50 amp? I am pretty handy with normal household wiring, I wired up my own 30 amp plug in my shed for the camper and have wired garages before, as long as it doesn't have to look to pretty. I don't know the extent of what would have to change in a camper to switch it though, it would be nice to not have to shut the air off to use the water heater and microwave.
Every thing would have to be replaced, from the 30 amp SP breaker in your breaker box at the house, starting with the breaker, wire to outlet, outlet, cord to RV, and any wiring from where the cord ends all the way to the RV's breaker box, including the breaker box, most likely. And maybe all breakers in the RV if you can't find matching box. If new box does not fit the opening... well that's another thread for sure! Many Hours, Many headaches, and Many $$$.

My advice, turn off the water heater when you need to use the microwave!

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Old 07-08-2014, 03:34 PM   #22
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My advice, turn off the water heater when you need to use the microwave!
Or turn on your generator.

I keep seeing people suggest putting in a 50A service in place of a 30A plug for shore power. I disagree with this because the plugs are different and the 30A is a 120V line. Not a 240V. This doesn't help someone with a 30A setup on their RV.

Simple solution, hire a professional to wire up a 30A plug and make sure they use a heavy gauge wire rated for 40+A. You always want at least 20% higher rated wiring for current to handle surges and reduced line resistance. Make sure they use a single line of copper stranded wiring in a single jacket. Yes, it costs more but you will have all the 30A service you will ever need and peace of mind knowing you are not going to start a fire in your wiring. Make sure they put a dedicated 30A breaker in your house panel as well. This will protect from over current if you kick on too many things at once as well should you get carried away using the AC plugs in your rig.
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Old 07-08-2014, 04:13 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by beeker6 View Post
Maybe this is a question for a new thread, but how difficult is it to switch a 30 amp Class C to a 50 amp? I am pretty handy with normal household wiring, I wired up my own 30 amp plug in my shed for the camper and have wired garages before, as long as it doesn't have to look to pretty. I don't know the extent of what would have to change in a camper to switch it though, it would be nice to not have to shut the air off to use the water heater and microwave.
There is a lot of It depends in what I am about to type. BUT if you are talking about a trailer that DOES NOT have a built in generator and Auto Transfer switch here is how you do it.

Disconnect all wires from the power distribution center, LABEL THEM (NOTE some centers are both 12 and 120 volt, some are 120 volt with a seperate 12 volt, the first often contain a converter as well.. NOW IS A GOOD time to upgrade the converter if yours is one of those, Progressive dynamics makes great converters, some with power centers wrapped around them)

REmove old 30 amp box.

Remove old 30 amp cord

Put in new 50 amp cord
Put in new 50 amp box
Hook everything back up BALANCING the loads so that you are as close to the same number of amps on L-1 as L-2.

Job done.

The depends: Auto transfer switch for generator (Would need to be replaced)
Energy management system that sheds loads so you can run 2 A/C's on one 30 amp line, Again you need to replace.

Other devices between plug and breaker box.. Need to be replaced.
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Old 07-16-2014, 10:33 AM   #24
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I have a dedicated 20A circuit next to the RV. Nothing else is on it. If I run AC, the adapter will get hot. I've tried "other" adapters. This is AC with nothing else. No circuits tripped, but it's obviously non-ideal. If I'm going to run the AC, I use a 30A extension cord (10 gauge) and plug it into the 30A circuit.
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Old 07-16-2014, 10:56 AM   #25
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I used a dedicated 15 amp garage plug for a year to run one AC and charge the battery(s). Would do this when working on coach or night before a trip. Rewired that plug to 30 amp service so I could test run everything at the same time prior to a trip.

The older MH's seem more tolerant to such things, less stuff I guess.
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