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Old 07-07-2014, 05:55 AM   #1
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How many amps needed for shore power

Can I just plug in a standard outlet from my garage for shore power or do I need a dedicated 30 amp plug in ?

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Old 07-07-2014, 06:14 AM   #2
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You can use adapters so that your plug fits. Just don't expect to run the air conditioner or two heavy use item at the same time.

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Old 07-07-2014, 10:01 AM   #3
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You can run your Rig that way you will need an adapter to convert your plug into the 15 amp circuit. Just keep in mind you do not have a lot of amps so running things like ACs will be a problem. If you have to use an extension cord make sure the wire guage is hefty.
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Old 07-07-2014, 10:06 AM   #4
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Bukiman: I think it is a deeper question than just "how many amps"...it leads to...what are you expecting to do with your rig while it is parked? If you want a full service RV...you will need a full service set of amperage. If you want to run the frig and an occasional lite....you can do like I do...run an extension cord out there and plug into an outlet in the garage. If I need any real electrical power for AC units or electrical tools...I must start the genny and use that higher amp power.
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Old 07-07-2014, 10:11 AM   #5
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I have my coach ( 50 amp ) hooked to the 15 amp plug in the garage all the time when I'm home, using a 100" contractor grade extension.
BUT. Only the converter/charger is operating to charge the batteries , and the fridge 48 hours before trips. All other loads in the coach are shut down.
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Old 07-07-2014, 11:04 AM   #6
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15amp is OK for lighting and battery float, not much else. Cords and plugs will get hot if you do anything else, like AC. I would go with a 30 amp, as close to the TT as possible.

Just be sure it is wired at 120V, not 240V. It's not a welder plug!

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Old 07-07-2014, 11:33 AM   #7
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The receptacle is a NEMA TT-30R.
I have done the AC over a 15 amp circuit .. sigh... not pretty. (And I should know better... but it was not going to be long...)
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Old 07-07-2014, 11:41 AM   #8
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A standard 15 amp circuit will usually power the converter to charge batteries, this runs lights and such. Once the batteries are full there may be enough power for one A/C or (not and) The Microwave OR the water heater.. You will likley need to keep fridge on Propane though.

With a 20 amp circuit you may be able to put the fridge on AC power.

W@ith 30.. You can run (usually) ONE A/C along with the Microwave OR water heater. Or both Micro and Water heater but NOT the AC.

I would recommend you have an electrician install a 50 amp outlet.. (Why 50 when you have a 30 amp rig) MANY MANY threads that start with "I had an electrician install 30 amps and he made a mistake".

Only one such thread with 50 amp outlet and that was a park technician, not a licesned electrician.
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Old 07-07-2014, 12:14 PM   #9
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I ran my mh on a 15 amp circuit and could run this and that but not all at once. If it's hot and you want to run the AC, you may not be able to run a vacuum cleaner or other power tool. I finally said heck with it, and had a 30 circuit installed now can run anything and everything that I can run at a campsite. It was money well spent.
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Old 07-07-2014, 01:09 PM   #10
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Each summer, we spend a month at my FIL's place in rural Minnesota. We park our 40DP next to his barn and exist on a 15 amp circuit. As pointed out, we can't run big draw items like the microwave or the AC, but we get by fine.

We switch our fridge and water heater on propane and limit the inverter/charger draw to 10 amps. Most afternoons we need to run the gennie for a few hours to cool off the coach.

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Old 07-07-2014, 04:01 PM   #11
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I have been using my standard 20 amp outlet and my AC works, but am I hurting the AC running it on low amps ?
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Old 07-07-2014, 04:12 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Bukiman View Post
I have been using my standard 20 amp outlet and my AC works, but am I hurting the AC running it on low amps ?
I've melted the ends of a 12 awg ext. cord years ago and the AC wasn't even on. Problem is you get line loss, with that you get a higher Amp draw, the wiring heats up and you lose more Voltage, with lower Voltage you get an even higher Amp draw and more heat ----- bang
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Old 07-07-2014, 04:15 PM   #13
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One of the big issues will be the length of the 110VAC cord from the house to the RV. The longer the cord, the more voltage drop across the cord, which will cause it to heat up. The thicker the cord (10ga, for example, versus 14ga) the less of a problem it will be. The amps drawn by your AC will be the same, what will happen is that the voltage will drop (become lower), which could potentially cause problems. As others have pointed out, perhaps installing a dedicated circuit for the RV would resolve your concerns?

Hope that helps...
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Old 07-07-2014, 05:32 PM   #14
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If using existing outlets
15 amps (two flat slots parallel, standard wall outlet) you may or may not be able to run the A/C. and the converter, though you may have to wait a few hours after you plug in to turn on the A/C.... I doubt if you could run A/C, Converter and fridge at one time.

20 amps (also a standard wall outlet but the neutral is "T" shaped) you can add in the fridge on most RV's.. ONE A/C or the Microwave or the Water heater but not two at one time.

30 amp RV socket, make sure it is a 120 volt outlet before you plug in.
TWO of the things on that "OR" list

50 amp RV outlet, IF YOU HAVE AN OUTLET INSTALLED BY A PRO PLEASE HAVE HIM PUT IN A FIFTY AMP. If the RV is properlay "Balanced" you should be able to run everything in it at the same time.

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