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Old 01-15-2008, 04:35 PM   #1
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I try and start up my genny and the V10 every month for a half hour or so. What do the rest of you do?
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Old 01-15-2008, 04:35 PM   #2
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I try and start up my genny and the V10 every month for a half hour or so. What do the rest of you do?
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Old 01-15-2008, 05:42 PM   #3
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Idling is not good for an engine and does not lubricate the seals and let the drive line warm up to operating temperature. Moisture forms as part of the combustion and unless loaded and actually driven, you will leave moisture in the oil and it will form acids.

You are better off to change the oil last thing, fill the tank, add a fuel stabilizer and let the engine be until summer.

The generator needs to be run a minimum of 1/2 hour at 1/2 or more load every 4 weeks. This helps to keep the windings free of moisture.

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Old 01-16-2008, 07:33 AM   #4
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Run the generator every 4-6 weeks for 45 minutes with both a/c on. The motorhome do not get run. Some say I would never let mine sit that long without running it. These chassis sit a long time without running at the factory before delivery,the oil in them may be a year or two old before you buy it.

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Old 01-16-2008, 05:33 PM   #5
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just move down to GA or best Fl and run it every weekend to the your favorite gathering. that is why they call it motoring on wheels . Roughing it easily . our for you northern just run the gen for 1/2 hour every 4 weeks under load. And I would still start up the motorhome for the same period of time. , weather you drive or it not , let it idle till warm then rev it up to charge the battery, at least once a month.
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Old 01-17-2008, 01:15 PM   #6
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I run the gen at least once a month with a/c, TV, light on for .5 to 1 hour. The engine I run until the engine is warn. Sometime I move the RV so the I can cut the grass around it. RV park behind the house.
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Old 01-18-2008, 04:07 AM   #7
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As long as the roads are clear, I take the rig for a good 1/2hr ride once a month.
Also go out at least once a month and spend some time working inside. Run genny with a load from ceramic heater, stereo, TV, ect.
From all I've read, "Use it or Loose it"
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Old 01-18-2008, 04:41 AM   #8
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Fxrscotty:
I try and start up my genny and the V10 every month for a half hour or so. What do the rest of you do? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>A half-hour run on your equipment is not sufficient to provide the proactive benefit that you are looking for. It is likely that you could be doing more harm than good.

Remember if you run your equipment make sure it achieves its operational temperature and that both the generator and the V-10 are under load. This is often difficult to achieve in the dead of winter.

It may be more beneficial to simply use Sta-Bil and let the equipment sit until it can be properly run.
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Old 01-18-2008, 02:47 PM   #9
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by BillArf:
Well, I'm not sure if I agree with this. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>You got the idea! Run the equipment under as much of a load as possible. Taking the vehicle out on the road is typically the best medicine.

Simply idling the equipment isn't good for it as you have alluded to in your post.
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Old 01-19-2008, 11:36 AM   #10
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Reply </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
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Old 01-19-2008, 01:23 PM   #11
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There is no reason to run the roof A/C units as they do not have seals. It is what is called hermetically sealed. Now the dash air does need a running every 30 days or so to insure the seals are wetted.

On the engine, gas or diesel, if you can not get it out and drive it for 30 or more minutes, change the oil, add fuel stabilizer, fill the fuel tank, disconnect the battery and let it set. It is far worse to not fully warm the engine and exhaust than to let it set if properly winter prepared.

In addition, with the driving, you circulate the transmission fluid and wet all of the seals as well as the rear axle seals.

Plus by driving, it you will get it fully to operating temperature and drive the moisture out of the engine and exhaust.

A lot of places are starting to pass legislation prohibiting the prolonged idle of an engine as well.

Ken
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Old 01-20-2008, 05:45 AM   #12
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The reason to run roof ac's is to load the generator which needs to be done.
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Old 01-20-2008, 05:56 AM   #13
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We did the same thing in the military. The CQ used to go to the motor pool and start all of the Battery (Unit you're in) vehicles and run it and then get in a vehicle to stay warm. This way the vehicles was ready for an alert.
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Old 01-20-2008, 06:14 AM   #14
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To lad the generator I ran a couple of 1500 watt heaters as a load and it let me stay warm.

It is not good to start a roof mount A/C unit when it is so cold. The oil in the compressor is cold and viscous (thick). The oil also holds a lot more refrigeration in the oil than when warmer. Starting the system will immediately lower the pressure on the crankcase which causes the refrigerant in the oil to flash and the oil will turn to foam. Two things happen now...the oil foam will be carried past the compressor rings and pushed out into the system and the compressor does not have sufficient oil for lubrication. You can get by with starting it like this for a while, but every start will shorten the life of the compressor. How much...no one really knows, but these are the reasons not to start a larger refrigeration compressor when cold unless there is a sump heater to warm the oil and it is energized for 24 hours before you start.

As for the dash air, the benefit of wetting the shaft seal out weights the starting lubrication problem.

Ken
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