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10-22-2016, 06:28 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Olustee, Fl
Posts: 460
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Installing a surge protector on a Gulf Stream Conquest
My 2006 GS conquest has a small compartment that the shore power cord is folded into. I want to put a surge protector on it. The videos I have seen on installing a protector shows large open cabinets where the cord is, making installation easy.
I have not looked under my rv yet but where and how can I put this hardwired protector
Thanks
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2006 Gulf Stream Conquest Ultra
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10-22-2016, 08:29 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Rigby, Idaho
Posts: 3,902
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Why not use the plugin style? If the sp goes tu, you'll be powerless with a hardwire unit. With a plugin, at least you can plug directly in to a good pedastle somewhere.
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Cheers,
TonyMac
2006 Monaco Safari Cheetah 40PMT
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10-22-2016, 10:17 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Olustee, Fl
Posts: 460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyMac
Why not use the plugin style? If the sp goes tu, you'll be powerless with a hardwire unit. With a plugin, at least you can plug directly in to a good pedastle somewhere.
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After I figured out what "sp goes tu", I still don't understand why I would be powerless with a hardwire unit. I just did not want an expensive device out so that some miscreant could steal it. It happens ya know.
Thanks for the reply.
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2006 Gulf Stream Conquest Ultra
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10-22-2016, 10:24 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Olustee, Fl
Posts: 460
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I do see some 60 to 75 buck plug in surge protector/analyzers that I could put on the shore power pedestal that I wouldn't go crazy if it got stolen but are they any good. I was under the impression that a hardwired was better.
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2006 Gulf Stream Conquest Ultra
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10-22-2016, 11:38 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 599
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Almost all of the shore power pedestals have a tab or matching holes that can lock the cover with a padlock. Surge protector can not be removed (stolen) without unlocking.
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10-22-2016, 12:00 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club Forest River Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 3,323
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I have a padlock and chain that I can use to secure it and did for awhile until I decided it was a solution in search of a non existent problem. Never had a problem or heard any first hand problems of theft. The bigger problem is driving off and forgetting it .. I have heard of people who do that.
I like the portable as I've used it on my past 3 rigs without removing it (pita) by just transferring it
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2023 Coachmen Encore 325SS
2002 Ford Escape toad
2020 GMC terrain
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10-22-2016, 01:56 PM
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#7
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Community Administrator
Fleetwood Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Marquette, Michigan "Da UP" & Lehigh Acres Florida
Posts: 21,822
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It can be hard wired almost any place you want with a little bit of fore thought, time, effort and sometimes money. This one is in the top left of the picture. By removing the yellow plug it can be removed in case of complete failure of the box and the extension cord plugged in
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John & Cathy R.
06 Pace Arrow 38L Workhorse W24
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10-22-2016, 03:20 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 6,909
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"bus"-
On our former Class C, the "mousehole" went through the sidewall directly below the countertop where the sink was installed. In the cabinet below the sink there was a shelf. At the outboard (mousehole) end of the shelf was a small (18 in. wide by 6 in. tall) piece of 1/4 in. plywood as a vertical divider. The plywood and shelf formed an open-topped space in which the 30 feet of 30A cable sat when stored inside the RV.
I was concerned that the mousehole was a place for actual mice to enter the coach, so I installed a Marinco Park Power outlet and converted the pull-out 30A cord to an extension cord.
At the same time I installed a Progressive Industries 30A hardwired power protection unit. I wired it to the Marinco outlet and to the electrical power center (conveniently located in the same cabinet). I removed the plywood divider and installed the PI unit in the space formerly used by the 30A cable. Now here's the important part: Working inside the cabinet was no walk in the park, so I made "service loops" going in and out of the PI unit such that I could do all the wiring inside the unit with the unit outside the cabinet. I then slid the PI unit inside the cabinet, fastened it down to the shelf, and laced the service loops out of the way. Then I reinstalled the plywood divider, to keep under-sink items on the shelf from banging into the PI unit.
I mounted the remote display on the inside of the cabinet door, alongside the display for the Trimetric battery monitor. This kept the displays hidden unless I wanted to look at them.
I can send you pictures of the installation if you send me a private message with your e-mail address.
If you post a couple pictures of your cable entrance area and pathway leading to the transfer switch we can offer some suggestions.
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Mark
2008 Holiday Rambler Admiral 30PDD (Ford F-53 chassis)
2009 Honda Fit Sport
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10-22-2016, 03:41 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 218
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I have used a progressive plug in at the pedestal for years and have not lost it. I am more worried about forgetting to unplug it and leave it than someone stealing it
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2015 3500 Denali DRW
Pushed by 2015 Redwood 36RL Loaded
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10-24-2016, 02:33 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Rigby, Idaho
Posts: 3,902
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If you hardwire a sacrificial unit like a surge protector, and it sacrifices itself to a bad power pole, you cannot get power to your rig until you bypass the now-fried surge protector. With a plugin type, all you need to do is find a good power pole and you're back in busness. Further, a plugin unit is easier to replace than a hardwired unit; you can go to camping store and buy one off the shelf and plug it in yourself, rather than having to un-wire the fried unit and rewire the new on in it's place, or pay someone of questionable morals, skill and knowledge to do it for you.
__________________
Cheers,
TonyMac
2006 Monaco Safari Cheetah 40PMT
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10-24-2016, 02:41 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Rigby, Idaho
Posts: 3,902
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I doubt there is an epidemic of stolen surge protectors, but I do lock mine. My hose is not locked and it's never walked away. I see portable Satellite receivers sitting out and they never seem to walk away. BBQ grills, chairs, tables, etc. That being said, a local left his 5er in the mountains to save his spot for opening day of hunting season. You guessed it -- they show up the day before opening and she Gone!! Trailer and everything in it -- poof -- disappeared like Casper the Friendly Ghost.
__________________
Cheers,
TonyMac
2006 Monaco Safari Cheetah 40PMT
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10-24-2016, 03:05 PM
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#12
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Registered User
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Varies Depending on The Weather
Posts: 8,517
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olustee bus
After I figured out what "sp goes tu", I still don't understand why I would be powerless with a hardwire unit. I just did not want an expensive device out so that some miscreant could steal it. It happens ya know.
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SP = surge protector
TU = Tango Uniform AKA Tits Up
Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyMac
Why not use the plugin style? If the sp goes tu, you'll be powerless with a hardwired unit. With a plugin, at least you can plug directly in to a good pedestal somewhere.
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Totally false!
When purchasing the ONLY hardwired unit that is worth its salt, the Progressive Industries EMS-HW50C which comes with a remote display, there is a switch on the display which allows you to bypass the EMS control board logic EXCEPT for the Surge Protection. Thereby allowing you to obtain new control boards while still maintaining power to your RV.
They also offer a Bypass Switch for the EMS- LCHW50 unit which doesn't come with the remote display.
Dr4Film ----- Richard
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10-24-2016, 05:25 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: South of Atlanta, Georgia
Posts: 2,105
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The surge protection, if it "blows" while sacrificing itself during a power surge, will not cause the remainder of the unit to not work. Surge protection is simply MOVs and other devices that absorb the energy coming into the box. If the surge were so bad that it blew out the controlling circuit board and possibly the relay (a nice big heavy duty 40 amp Leviton unit) then the surge would have gone on into the coach and destroyed your converter and microwave and other stuff also.
I like the hardwired unit with the remote as you can see what the voltage, cycles and amp draw is at any time. It also keeps track of the previous error code and also shows current error codes.
There are very few reasons to want to bypass a working EMS such as the Progressive unit. It will save your bacon every time.
Charles
__________________
'03 Ram 2500 CTD, 5.9HO six speed PacBrake std cab long bed Leer top and 2008 Bigfoot 25B21RB.. Previously, 2008 Thor Freedom Spirit 180, SOLD! 2007 Winnebago View 23H Motorhome, SOLD!
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10-24-2016, 05:29 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: South of Atlanta, Georgia
Posts: 2,105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr4Film
SP = surge protector
TU = Tango Uniform AKA Tits Up
Totally false!
When purchasing the ONLY hardwired unit that is worth its salt, the Progressive Industries EMS-HW50C which comes with a remote display, there is a switch on the display which allows you to bypass the EMS control board logic EXCEPT for the Surge Protection. Thereby allowing you to obtain new control boards while still maintaining power to your RV.
They also offer a Bypass Switch for the EMS- LCHW50 unit which doesn't come with the remote display.
Dr4Film ----- Richard
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This is 99% true. only condition under which you would be "stranded" would be a failure of the big relay, and its the exact same relay used on my communities well pumps, and those relays tend to last about 20 years cycling quite a few times a day.
Charles
__________________
'03 Ram 2500 CTD, 5.9HO six speed PacBrake std cab long bed Leer top and 2008 Bigfoot 25B21RB.. Previously, 2008 Thor Freedom Spirit 180, SOLD! 2007 Winnebago View 23H Motorhome, SOLD!
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