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Old 09-01-2015, 06:23 PM   #15
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One word of caution when using air to blow out the lines. It is always best to start the pressure at zero with one faucet open inside. Using a regulator at the coach increase the pressure and once that starts pushing the water out I increase the pressure to about 20 PSI. Then go inside open the next faucet and close the first. Continue going from faucet to faucet until all the lines are blowing air and water. Once most of the lines are cleared increase your pressure to what ever you feel comfortable.

Why do this??? Have you ever heard water pipes rattling in a house when you open and close a faucet?? You get a wall of water moving with 40-60 PSI pushing it and slam the faucet shut that wall of water has to come to an abrupt halt. That causes pipes to shake and rattle. It's just not good for plastic lower pressure lines either.


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Old 09-01-2015, 06:41 PM   #16
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Pink stuff smells different from automotive but... I recommend blowing out the lines

You get a special screw in adapter from Wal*mart or any RV dealer

You set your compressor's regulator at 50 PSI

NOTE..... YOU MUST USE A TANK TYPE COMPRESSOR a tankless simply will not push the volume you need.

Let the compressor pump it up.. Open everything Drain water heater and bypass.. BLOW till you run out of air or no more water comes out.

let it pump back uip and cycle the Ice maker to suck water out if its lines

Blow again.. Cycle again (Ice maker)

Blow again LIke 10 times.

Close valves and the fresh system is done

use pink stuff in drains and traps. and toilets.

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Old 09-01-2015, 07:02 PM   #17
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Yes , blowing the lines properly is a good way to winterize most of the RV's water system; BUT; blowing the lines will not clear the water from the 12v water pump, or the pick-up line between the pump and the fresh tank, and depending on the RV, the line between the pump and the city water hook up.
When your done blowing the lines , remove the connections from the 12v water pump and drain the lines there and start the pump with the lines off to run it dry , or , preferred remove the pump and store in a heated area.

Please do not ask why I developed this method, or why I rec-commend doing things this way.
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Old 09-02-2015, 06:26 AM   #18
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First off don't be in a hurry just walk around several times blowing things out . From to back then back to front or whatever. If you have a rinse hose at the sink when your done take it off just incase there's water left in it and I always take the shower hose off and leave all the valves open. As far as the pump i run it off and on as I'm blowing down. Just make a relaxing day of it while your doing other things water will move around while it's sitting. Have the grill going and your favorite cold one to make the process more relaxing.
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Old 09-09-2015, 04:26 PM   #19
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Also, remove your water heater anode or elec heater element so the heater tank can drain.
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Old 09-09-2015, 04:56 PM   #20
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Similar to my method, however this is my opportunity to back flush the accumulated stuff in the bottom of the hot water tank. I have a short hose that I attach to the water heater bottom drain, then run it outside on the ground. White sludge gets pushed out first then eventually clear water.

Oh, the washing machine ... mine has dedicate drains for the water lines. Hope I never forget those ... RV washing combos are expensive.

I'm old, so I have a printed check list to keep my brain straight.
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Old 09-09-2015, 05:00 PM   #21
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I have used the blow out method for close to 40 years. After making sure you have blown everything out, open all faucets and low point/water heater drains. Any little water left will have room to expand when it freezes.

Don't forget the outside shower valves, and washer/dryer and washer pump. Pour a little antifreeze in each sink drain, shower drain, and toilet.

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