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08-02-2018, 01:22 PM
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#29
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: SE & Northern Michigan
Posts: 184
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trx430ex
Finally found a good jack for changing tires, a 10 ton porta-power with 5 foot hose. no going under vehicle anymore. My impact, DeWalt DCF899H with Flex volt batt.
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What porta power jack do you have? I don’t want to even try using a bottle jack for the rear dullies. My search for porta jacks guide me to porta power tools for pulling or pushing car frames, panels. Do these tools also double as a jack?
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08-02-2018, 10:23 PM
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#30
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Worcester Pennsylvania
Posts: 1,063
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Offramp
What porta power jack do you have? I don’t want to even try using a bottle jack for the rear dullies. My search for porta jacks guide me to porta power tools for pulling or pushing car frames, panels. Do these tools also double as a jack?
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I saw it on the shelf at my hydraulic shop when I dropped off the Bobcat piston for rebuild. It did not strike me until I was driving home, woo look at this. Will get more info when I pick the cylinder up. Yes a jack, yes 10 ton. 4 inches tall, 2 inches round. We only have to pick the axle up,, 1 inch to change a tire. But it is a very heavy inch.
Everything I am seeing on Amazon and eBay are Chinese knock offs, the one I looked at was either German made, or American made.
__________________
2006 Fleetwood Bounder 35E Trek pure Trike, electric, 50 mile range, 7000 ,miles the get everything runner. To be toad list Done, Ford E450 toad. Stay & Play active brakes.
Full-time since 2018. LG 4.5 cu ft washer/dryer.
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08-03-2018, 07:32 AM
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#31
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 1,459
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Offramp
I don’t want to even try using a bottle jack for the rear dullies.
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And what's the why of that?
Unless the jack has some kind of long rigid handle you will need to be under to place the jack. Why not work the pump from there?
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08-03-2018, 07:00 PM
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#32
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: SE & Northern Michigan
Posts: 184
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My bottle jacks have the traditional flat circular top plate. Ford manual shows the rear jackpoint to be the rear axle, just inside of the leaf springs, not on the leaf springs. The thought of the jack slipping off the axle and tons of Motorhome coming down quickly while I’m underneath are making me think of alternatitives.
I have no problem getting the jack into position, but without a saddle or other suitable fitting, I don’t like the thought of being underneath the E450 chassis pumping a jack.
I’ve been searching online for a “saddle” fitting/adapter but not finding any such thing. Any guidance to such an adapter is appreciated.
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08-03-2018, 07:10 PM
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#33
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 679
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Offramp
My bottle jacks have the traditional flat circular top plate. Ford manual shows the rear jackpoint to be the rear axle, just inside of the leaf springs, not on the leaf springs. The thought of the jack slipping off the axle and tons of Motorhome coming down quickly while I’m underneath are making me think of alternatitives.
I have no problem getting the jack into position, but without a saddle or other suitable fitting, I don’t like the thought of being underneath the E450 chassis pumping a jack.
I’ve been searching online for a “saddle” fitting/adapter but not finding any such thing. Any guidance to such an adapter is appreciated.
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Go to a site, Safe Jack. Bottle jack accessories. They carry/make a line of bottle jack saddles that will fit front/rear axles. Expensive, but you definately get what you pay for.
I have there 20 ton bottle jack saddle/lift pad. Very well made, and fits both axles on our E-450 based class c.
Grumpy
__________________
Steve & Cheryl + Zoey, and Ziggy, our furry kids.
2012 Forrest River Lexington 283ts
2013 Subaru Crosstrek toad
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08-03-2018, 07:16 PM
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#34
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 35,349
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grumpy0374
Go to a site, Safe Jack. Bottle jack accessories. They carry/make a line of bottle jack saddles that will fit front/rear axles. Expensive, but you definately get what you pay for.
I have there 20 ton bottle jack saddle/lift pad. Very well made, and fits both axles on our E-450 based class c.
Grumpy
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When I used a bottle jack on my E450, I followed it up with a jackstand.
As I pumped the jack, I kept raising the jackstand one click at a time. The jack could fall out and the axle would only fall about an inch, until it sat on the stand.
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08-03-2018, 09:31 PM
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#35
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Worcester Pennsylvania
Posts: 1,063
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grumpy0374
Go to a site, Safe Jack. Bottle jack accessories.
Grumpy
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Thanks Grumpy, that may just be enough as I already have a 20 bottle jack. Still don't know if I have the courage to put 5 tons up on jack stands and do the rear brakes. Fronts calipers are done, also FYI, this is what a E550 coil looks like.
__________________
2006 Fleetwood Bounder 35E Trek pure Trike, electric, 50 mile range, 7000 ,miles the get everything runner. To be toad list Done, Ford E450 toad. Stay & Play active brakes.
Full-time since 2018. LG 4.5 cu ft washer/dryer.
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08-04-2018, 06:07 AM
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#36
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 1,459
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Offramp
My bottle jacks have the traditional flat circular top plate. Ford manual shows the rear jackpoint to be the rear axle, just inside of the leaf springs, not on the leaf springs. The thought of the jack slipping off the axle and tons of Motorhome coming down quickly while I’m underneath are making me think of alternatitives.
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I have never jacked up a MH, my experience is with heavy trucks. If I'm working on a concrete slab or floor, I will use the long handled air operated bottle jack on wheels that I can position and operate and never be under the truck. But if I get there and the truck is parked on dirt, gravel or asphalt, I will need to put something under the jack. Even then, the base of jack can shift, changing the way the top takes the load. In that case I prefer to be up close, so I can see the first bit of movement. Once the jack gets tight under load, and before the load moves, I make sure the jack can't hit me when it falls. The load, still with wheels on will not drop much below where it starts. Once I get it jacked up high enough to do what needs done, get out from under, put in jackstand or more likely cribbing to make sure it stays up.
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08-05-2018, 01:05 AM
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#37
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Senior Member
Gulf Streamers Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 4,308
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Jack
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lonallie
I had no idea that I could just turn the rim in or out...have to check that out...if that true...another dumb question...what do you use (fleetwood 26') for a jack? I haven't seen one nor have I really looked...but seems like it would be a rather big one for the rear...ideas?
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Believe (most) use a 12-ton hydraulic, w/ wheel chocks and 3-ton jack stands?
20-ton might be an option, but you need to verify clearance w/ flat and position and max lift for any specific jack. Side of road is NOT where you want to find you bought wrong :-( jack point at axle under spring?
__________________
(TerryH.) 2000-GS Conquest Limited 6266 Class-C 99-E450SD V10
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08-05-2018, 12:45 PM
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#38
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 4,985
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A word of caution using a bottle jack on asphalt, use a base plate. I jacked up by dually in a parking lot and the jack just punched through the asphalt.
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08-06-2018, 05:20 AM
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#39
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 1,459
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grindstone01
A word of caution using a bottle jack on asphalt, use a base plate. I jacked up by dually in a parking lot and the jack just punched through the asphalt.
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I thought I made this point when talking about jacks that are placed under, then pumped remotely. The ground normally does not give so the jack goes straight down, but starts to lean.
And the design of most jack stands is even worse. Look at the area of the bottom of the jack, then the bottom of the stand. Then most the legs are angled to each other. So if it starts to sink pressure is forcing that angle to change.
And somebody said they click the stand up as they jack the load up. Not sure that is a good idea. First, moving to re-adjust the stand might put you in the way if the jack fails. If you need to be on your belly when starting to jack the load, stay on belly until thru jacking.
The stand is designed to support so much weight gently lowered onto it. If you are clicking the stand up, and the vehicle drops will that big hammer break the stand? More likely just knock it out of place. (Into you?) Sometimes if I can make repairs without going under, I don't use a stand. Changing a tire, I would be in a much more dangerous position placing the stand than doing the work, and the time the wheel is off is limited...
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