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Old 10-16-2013, 12:10 PM   #1
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Low Point Drains and Winterizing

Hi! We have a Fleetwood Tioga Ranger 25 foot Class C RV. We have had it for about 4 years and are really enjoying our trips. We have gone from NJ to the Poconos, Virginia, Michigan, and Mississippi. Hopefully, we will travel to Key West in the early spring.
I have some questions-
Does anybody know where the the low point drains are on my RV and how many there are?
If we find the low point drains, do we still blow out the system and use antifreeze (pink stuff)?
Do we still need to remove the water filter and drain the pump and water heater if we drain it, blow it out, but not add antifreeze?
Thanks for any help.
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Old 10-16-2013, 11:50 PM   #2
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My 25 foot jamboree (sister model of the Tioga) has the drains located on the floor under a drawer that I remove to the left of the fridge. (If you are unsure of your drain location, you can find the outlets by looking under the RV to find where they are located. ) After opening all faucets and shower, I drain the system, remove the drain plug from the water heater and drain that too, then close up them both.

Next I turn on the hot water heater bypass valve, then use an air compressor at 40 psi to blow out the water lines. (Faucets open in a succession. Don't forget the toilet ball valve too!

Finally, I pour a cup of the pink RV antifreeze in the drain P traps.

I used to use the pink stuff, but got tired of tasting it for much of the camping season. Yuck.

The only other item I have not mentioned is the fresh water tank. Be sure it is drained. Also to protect the pump, you can install a simple RV Pump Converter Winterizing Kit (camco) and pump just enough of the pink antifreeze in the line to get past the pump so that any freeze risk is eliminated there.

Your rig likely has PEX plumbing (mine does) so risk of breakage due to freezing is lower than the old grey stuff that is brittle. Often the parts that get messed up in freezing with the newer systems are the pump / filter, the water heater (if not drained) and the toilet ball valve.

I have a friend that simply opens the low drain valves and drives around after also emptying the water heater. He's not had any issues. Me - I feel much better by blowing out the lines and the added steps. There is a good compressor for $129 husky 8 gallon at Home Depot that does the job well.
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Old 10-17-2013, 05:36 AM   #3
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thanks!
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Old 10-18-2013, 07:48 PM   #4
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Here is some info also.

I use an air purge and back fill with RV af, typically less than 2 gallons if HW heater bypassed.

normally low point drains are red for hw and blue for cw stubbed below chassis. Sometimes they are plugged with valves to open some don't have valves. In my camper there are drain valves below sink, so locations tend to differ by cab. Enjoy your RV.Winterize Your RV - Tips and Guidelines - PPL Motor Homes

Winterize Your RV - Tips and Guidelines - PPL Motor Homes
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Old 10-21-2013, 06:02 PM   #5
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I'd like to be able to go dry without adding the pink AF but I'm wondering if other things benefit from the pink stuff such as keeping the seals/washers wet/lubricated ?

How many of you go "dry" instead of adding the pink stuff ?
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Old 10-21-2013, 08:32 PM   #6
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In Va we can have cold winters sometimes so I add the RV af,just in case some water didn't get pushed out.
lots of rvers use air purge method and then leave faucets open and pour some af down traps in sinks and storage tanks.
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