Go Back   iRV2 Forums > MOTORHOME FORUMS > Class C Motorhome Discussions
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 10-26-2015, 08:15 PM   #15
Junior Member
 
SoFloRV's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Live Oak, FL
Posts: 18
Willowleaf - I know this is an old post but did you follow through with the nose replacement? I'm doing the same mod but can't find a piece of aluminum or gel coat locally that is the right size.
__________________

__________________
SoFloRV is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 10-27-2015, 06:53 AM   #16
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 52
Yes, I have a thread where I posted photos of the rebuild and skin replacement. If you click on my screenname and go to my site profile, under the "statistics" tab you can click on threads I started and it is the one at the top of the list. I found a company here in Pittsburgh that sold metal products to contractors and fabrication shops. They sold 4' x 8' sheets of aluminum painted white on both sides and I bought one for $105 and they cut it down to 92" for me to fit the width exactly. I attached it on my own which was difficult and resulted in getting some small dents in it. I covered them with vinyl stickers and there are photos of that. I will be posting more photos this week since I just finished insulating the bunk and using white PVC paneling to re-skin the interior ceiling and front wall of the overcab bunk.

I would suggest to you looking in the local yellow pages for metal product suppliers or metal welding and fabrication shops. Also any company that makes large commercial signs might be able to tell you where they get their sheet metal or gel coat.
__________________

__________________
Willowleaf is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-27-2015, 02:31 PM   #17
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 52
some metal vendors

You could start here if any are near you:

Metal Products Manufacturers & Wholesalers in Florida
__________________
Willowleaf is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2015, 11:04 AM   #18
Junior Member
 
SoFloRV's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Live Oak, FL
Posts: 18
I see the difference. You used a 4x8 sheet of aluminum which is too small for my RV.
I did find a 5' X 8' sheet of aluminum but need coverage for an opening of 98.25" X 62". The 2.25" additional width and 2" length is the problem.

The good news is that this past Friday I found someone local through a friend of mine that has dealt with this in the past. He has a sheet metal shop and is involved in many areas of custom work. He is coming to my house Monday to look at what I have done so far and he said we can consider more options. He also said he can get whatever size aluminum sheet I need up to 10' X 5". That puts me within 2" which we may be able to make up with something. I'll know more this week. Gotta get this done since we are leaving for Savannah GA in 2 weeks.

Good job on yours.
__________________
SoFloRV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-02-2015, 08:12 AM   #19
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 52
width of stock

SoFlo: Yes, that is a problem needing the extra width. That has been one saving grace of having the smaller RV -- total outside width of the "box" is 92" so I have been able to use standard lumber and sheet stock for it.

Your sheet metal guy should be able to help you. Even if he can't get stock wide AND long enough, he can make two sheets with a folded overlap seam, which can actually make for a stronger surface. There are trims that you can fasten over such seams that will strengthen the whole area. I have one under the lip of the overcab (can't see it in the photos I've posted, but if I go down to look at the rig today I will take a shot and post it), a wide aluminum strip that screws in a slot down the middle over which I inserted a white rubber flange to hide the screw heads. I placed a strip of Eternabond tape over the overlapped seam before attaching the trim strip. It self-seals the sheet metal screws as they go through.

One thing I should have done before I attached the sheet metal on mine was moved the rig to a more level surface. I realized once I was done with it that the camper had been parked at an angle on a slope (so one tire was higher than the other 3) so the bare framework had been slightly skewed. I doubt anyone else would notice, but now when it is parked on the level you can see that the whole "nose" is slightly twisted on the bias. But I figure it gives it a rakish look (just kidding).
__________________
Willowleaf is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-04-2015, 07:28 PM   #20
Junior Member
 
SoFloRV's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Live Oak, FL
Posts: 18
Willowleaf, Yep you are a perfectionist. That's a good thing.

I ended up getting a new sheet of the fiberglass (FRP) sheeting. A little thicker than the factory stuff. I made aluminum brackets and pre-drilled holes then mounted them on the inside of the old window opening. Cut a piece of plywood to fill the hole and flushed it on the face of the outside. Sealed everything and now I'm ready to install the new FRP sheet.

All I need is to get about 3 more guys/gals over to help keep it lined up when the sheet hits the contact cement. That's a one shot deal and the FRP sheet cost me $275 so gotta be right the first time. Supply and Demand you know..

Doing all the seams with Ultra Bond Steel Lock adhesive tape and/or Eternabond double sided tape in some places. On the vertical corners I covered the Ultra Bond Tape with 3" PVC angle that I made from white 4" square fence posts covers and caulked around the PVC with Dicor lap sealant non-sag. Sprayed the inside corners with 3M contact adhesive before covering the corners with the PVC and then added a few ss screws to keep it tight. Probably overkill but the bold vertical corners look good, protect the corners from light damage and should never leak.

I poured 4 pads last year in the back yard to keep the RV out of the dirt and they are level with each other so no leveling issues while it sits.

Like you I am going to use the Eternabond tape on the upper and lower seams before installing the trim strips.
__________________
SoFloRV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2015, 09:45 AM   #21
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 52
Wiw, SoFlo, quite a project! I like that idea with the PVC fence posts. I am always wandering around building cenyers including my local architectural recycle warehouse to spot odd materials that can solve problems with this rebuild. I recently discovered that the vertical corner in the right rear of my unit, behind the shower, has dry rotted framing under the corner channel. I noticed the trim had a gap and when I pulled out the rusty screws and tried to drive in new stainless ones the wood just crumbled! Had to cover the two foot section with Gorilla tape to block rain getting in. I don't want to start a teardown of that area this late in the season so I may take your fencepost modification idea and replace that whole upright trim with the PVC to give it some integrity temporarily.

I was relieved to find a guy selling a nearly new tailored cover the exact size for my unit for $100 last week so I don't have to struggle with the unwieldy 40' x 30' tarp that I wrapped it in last year.

Going to install the other bunk sidewall panelling today. I bought the sanded birch faced 4' x4' light underlayment panels from Home Depot for this. I treated them with IKEA Behandla wood finish, which is a blend of tung and linseed oil. It turns the wood a rich light reddish brown like teak and brings up a lovely grain in it. Will post photos when the panels are up. I need to find a flexible white interior angle corner bead molding now to cover the gap where the ceiling and walls meet. The old trim is a rubbery dark brown that was stapled on and got kind of trashed when I pulled it off to remove the water damaged paneling. Looks like another browsing outing at Home Depot today.
__________________
Willowleaf is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-06-2015, 06:40 PM   #22
Junior Member
 
SoFloRV's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Live Oak, FL
Posts: 18
Seems to never end. Sending a picture of the vertical corners with PVC covers.

Got the front fiberglass nose on today and sealed both sides coming down from the top with Ultra Bond Steel Lock adhesive Tape. I'll cover the tape with PVC later. I still have to make the curves on top and bottom but I want the flat adhesive to cure for a day or 2 before doing anything else with the FRP fiberglass.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_3861.jpg
Views:	81
Size:	291.0 KB
ID:	111302  
__________________
SoFloRV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-19-2015, 04:47 PM   #23
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 52
great looking

Your PVC fence post corner bead looks great! I am going to try that on mine to reinforce the rear vertical corners.

Here are shots of my PVC interior ceiling installation in the reconstructed overcab bunk loft. I used the j-track trim used for the end pieces of vinyl house siding for the starter piece of the PVC sheet. The track has a perforated flange that I secured to the wood framing with flat head screws, then the sheet just slips into the slot under the raised molding. The sheet is fastened with short white painted hex-drive sheet metal screws to the ceiling joists underneath. Rather than buy a second $30 sheet of the PVC just for the 8" wide length just above the mattress I bought a piece of PVC soffit cover. It had a 90 degree angle at the lower edge with about a 1 inch lip which I shot screws into to fasten it to the wood framing at the back of the bunk, then just pressed and flexed the soffit until I could pop the top flat edge under the j-rack lip. Was extremely easy and I think it looks great. The end walls are the birch plywood underlayment (comes in 4' x 4' sheets) stained with linseed/tung oil and screwed to the framing. Considering how that bunk area looked when I bought it (3rd photo) it is quite a change.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	reduced_final_w_rug.jpg
Views:	68
Size:	315.0 KB
ID:	112367   Click image for larger version

Name:	cab_w_mattress.jpg
Views:	64
Size:	342.7 KB
ID:	112368  

Click image for larger version

Name:	early_rot2.jpg
Views:	62
Size:	287.4 KB
ID:	112369  
__________________

__________________
Willowleaf is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
95 454 Head Casting Numbers jcgribks Workhorse and Chevrolet Chassis Motorhome Forum 0 05-04-2014 05:51 PM
Shower Head drips faster and faster Bzffr8 Winnebago Industries Owner's Forum 5 04-13-2014 10:14 AM
6.0 head stud replacement advice requested DooDahDave Powerstroke Engine Forum 20 03-09-2014 05:33 PM
Bounder: 2004 Bounder 38N head light replacement KandME Fleetwood Products Owner's Forum 4 01-23-2014 09:56 AM
Head removal problems soundwve Vintage RV's 9 08-11-2013 02:17 PM

» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:30 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.