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Old 06-23-2013, 12:42 PM   #1
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Mice

How do you get rid of mice in the MH
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Old 06-23-2013, 01:33 PM   #2
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Never use rat poison. That sucker will die in the hardest to get to place and stink up the whole unit. Use mouse traps with cheese or peanut butter. The quickest way are the glue strips. Once they are stuck they cannot get loose.
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Old 06-23-2013, 02:22 PM   #3
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I agree with trackman best invention ever made have use for years with peanut butter, place one under kitchen draws, bathroom,furnace, lower outside vent area of fridge, Gen compartment and one or two at your power cable entrance.
You can try to block every entrance hole but their small heads will squeeze thru the smallest crack.
If you do nothing they love certain colored wiring usually in a large harness.
Had a grand total one winter of 12 dead mices. During summer months its not to bad but don't be surprised if one falls at your feet while filling the gas tank, had it happen while traveling in Canada.
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Old 06-23-2013, 03:27 PM   #4
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Never use rat poison. That sucker will die in the hardest to get to place and stink up the whole unit. Use mouse traps with cheese or peanut butter. The quickest way are the glue strips. Once they are stuck they cannot get loose.
I've been feeding mice with D-Con for 28 years, (no handling dead mice).
I've NEVER seen or smelled a body.

I have the little yellow wedge packs in many out of sight places.
Anywhere I found droppings or a sign of chewed wires or a nest...... under bottom cabinet drawers, in basement bins, above the ceiling, (through the speaker cutouts), in the engine compartment, etc.

My current coach had signs everywhere when I got it 13 years ago.
Initially I had to refill or replace empty packs every month or two.
Now I replace the packs with fresh ones once a year, (if I was a mouse I wouldn't want old poison). :-)
Using D-Con continuously my coach has been mouse free for 12 years.
Mel
'96 Sahara
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Old 06-23-2013, 04:07 PM   #5
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I've been feeding mice with D-Con for 28 years, (no handling dead mice).
I've NEVER seen or smelled a body.

I have the little yellow wedge packs in many out of sight places.
Anywhere I found droppings or a sign of chewed wires or a nest...... under bottom cabinet drawers, in basement bins, above the ceiling, (through the speaker cutouts), in the engine compartment, etc.

My current coach had signs everywhere when I got it 13 years ago.
Initially I had to refill or replace empty packs every month or two.
Now I replace the packs with fresh ones once a year, (if I was a mouse I wouldn't want old poison). :-)
Using D-Con continuously my coach has been mouse free for 12 years.
Mel
'96 Sahara
Had your nose checked lately? Ha Ha. Just kidding. You will be in a very select group and very lucky for your experience with poison.
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Old 06-23-2013, 07:09 PM   #6
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We share 5 acres with every rodent I can think of and the old fashioned spring loaded mouse trap with peanut butter works good. If he/she gets away tonight I will get him/her tomorrow night.
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Old 06-24-2013, 07:04 AM   #7
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Although this was written for structures it easily adaptable RV. The principles are the same.
This article was written by a well recognized authority on pests:


ENY-243/MG218: Non-Chemical Rodent Control
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Old 06-29-2013, 12:13 AM   #8
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I have heard that light will deter mice and rats and that a string of rope lights under your RV will keep them away. I hope so, I just ordered a set of LED rope lights from Amazon.
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Old 06-29-2013, 07:50 AM   #9
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I have heard that light will deter mice and rats and that a string of rope lights under your RV will keep them away. I hope so, I just ordered a set of LED rope lights from Amazon.
I have also heard that light will deter PACK RATS, but I'm not sure that is true.
As for MICE, I doubt that lights have any value, (other than help them see better).

To eliminate mice... oil of peppermint and/or dryer sheets "maybe".... D-Con for sure!
If you want to see the bodies.... use old fashion spring traps.
If you want to save their little lives, (or if you enjoy killing them yourself).... use live traps or sticky traps.
Mel
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Old 06-29-2013, 08:03 AM   #10
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Quote:
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I have heard that light will deter mice and rats and that a string of rope lights under your RV will keep them away. I hope so, I just ordered a set of LED rope lights from Amazon.
OMG!
You have rope lights now.
Does Sena play with them?
Davs
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Old 06-29-2013, 08:26 AM   #11
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I totally agree with Mel on this one. I always use the small yellow wedges of D-Con Mouse Bait and Killer. AND, I have NEVER had to handle one dead carcas or deal with any aroma from a dead mouse.

The bait will kill those little pests from the inside out. They basically dehydrate inside and wither up. What happens is after they fill themselves up with the D-Con, they leave to seek out a water source. They don't hang around to mess up your coach.

I am currently living in a wilderness park and I recently had to renew my bait after seeing signs of a mouse invasion.

I went through about 6 boxes of bait. Within a few days the bait boxes were never touched so I knew the mice were now gone. Once the bait did its thing, I used steel wool to plug up both the water and sewer openings in my service bay.

No more mice!

Dr4Film ----- Richard
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Old 06-29-2013, 06:13 PM   #12
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The following tips are from a retired veteran of the pest control wars. I have 28 years of experience as a commercial Pest control operator. As a fellow camper and traveler, I offer this advice:
I assume that you have correctly identified the problem as mice versus rats and want to use snap traps. Both are rodents but trapping techniques are different. There are many other methods of controlling mice, but each one draw backs.
Preparing the trap:
1. Wrap the trigger with cotton string, covering the trigger with one layer of string.
2. Force the peanut butter into the string.
3. Don’t leave a lot of “loose” peanut butter above the surface of the string. This will prevent the mouse from licking the trigger and getting the peanut butter without the trap snapping.
Placing the traps:
1. Place the traps with the trigger towards the wall or other vertical surface, allowing about ¼ inch clearance from the end of the trap. This insures that the trigger bar will clear the wall and close properly. This is where most rodents will run. They feel secure when the guard hairs on their bodies are touching something when they run.
2. Use traps in side by side banks of two or three. Mice will often “bounce” when running and can clear just one trap. The second one will get them.
3. Change the environment around. Reposition any moveable items in the room. The mice are so territorial that they must come out and check out the new things including the traps. Sometimes they will do this as soon as you leave the room!
4. Reuse the traps over and over. No washing is needed. Mice live with man so they are well used to your body scents. If you must clean, just rinse with clear water and dry.

If you wish to use alternative method here is link written by one of the leading authorities in the field:
ENY-243/MG218: Non-Chemical Rodent Control

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Old 06-29-2013, 08:17 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CampDaven View Post
OMG!
You have rope lights now.
Does Sena play with them?
Davs
They have not yet arrived, but I doubt (hope) she'll mess with them. She doesn't spend much time on the ground. And Dave, mums the word about this to the other mutants. I'd like to be able to report some success when I break the news.
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Old 06-29-2013, 11:52 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dog Folks View Post
The following tips are from a retired veteran of the pest control wars. I have 28 years of experience as a commercial Pest control operator. As a fellow camper and traveler, I offer this advice:
I assume that you have correctly identified the problem as mice versus rats and want to use snap traps. Both are rodents but trapping techniques are different. There are many other methods of controlling mice, but each one draw backs.
Preparing the trap:
1. Wrap the trigger with cotton string, covering the trigger with one layer of string.
2. Force the peanut butter into the string.
3. Don’t leave a lot of “loose” peanut butter above the surface of the string. This will prevent the mouse from licking the trigger and getting the peanut butter without the trap snapping.
Placing the traps:
1. Place the traps with the trigger towards the wall or other vertical surface, allowing about ¼ inch clearance from the end of the trap. This insures that the trigger bar will clear the wall and close properly. This is where most rodents will run. They feel secure when the guard hairs on their bodies are touching something when they run.
2. Use traps in side by side banks of two or three. Mice will often “bounce” when running and can clear just one trap. The second one will get them.
3. Change the environment around. Reposition any moveable items in the room. The mice are so territorial that they must come out and check out the new things including the traps. Sometimes they will do this as soon as you leave the room!
4. Reuse the traps over and over. No washing is needed. Mice live with man so they are well used to your body scents. If you must clean, just rinse with clear water and dry.

If you wish to use alternative method here is link written by one of the leading authorities in the field:
ENY-243/MG218: Non-Chemical Rodent Control


what does it say, i could not download? thanks
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