Go Back   iRV2 Forums > MOTORHOME FORUMS > Class C Motorhome Discussions
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 05-20-2013, 05:30 PM   #1
Junior Member
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 5
minnie cabover rot repair

New and first time so please correct me as needed. Working on the RV for friend.
2001 Winnebago Minnie, 24V (24' 6")
Sat for long, long time outside and water collected in cabover (probably came in at overhead lights). Floor of overhead bunk area (part over driver/passenger area) and a lot of the forward area (the part over the windshield outside) rotten/or partially delaminated. Have removed the horizontal trim that connects these two bed support areas and can see plywood separation, etc. Some ply on sides by curved portion probably damaged also. Vinyl, if that is what it is, on top of supports is cracked, etc, needs replacing. Questions are:
-Is there a place to get exact construction details, etc
-Is the exterior fiberglass glued to framing, etc?
-Is the curved form of cabover framed of one piece ply- maybe steamed and shaped or what?
-Work from exterior in? Appears that the roof curved cabover portion can be removed in one piece. Also, if trim removed, can enough fiberglass be carefully pulled away to replace the plywood
Any info appreciated-will have many more questions- Just trying to investigate before deciding if I should tackle. Rest of RV in great shape. Thanks, Jim
__________________

__________________
haylay is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 05-21-2013, 12:31 AM   #2
Moderator Emeritus
 
SarahW's Avatar


 
Fleetwood Owners Club
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: In a lawnchair
Posts: 11,204
Howdy and welcome to iRV2! Sorry I can't help with your questions. You might check out the Vintage Owner's Section, though the 2001 is not technically "vintage." There is a wealth of repair & update discussion going on. Vintage RV's - iRV2 Forums

Here is a previous discussion about a bunk area rebuild... Bunk Water Damage Rebuild

Good luck!
__________________

__________________
.2012 Fleetwood Bounder 33C | 2012 Jeep Wrangler

SarahW is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2013, 11:08 AM   #3
Junior Member
 
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 6
Jim, I did my cabover last year on a 2000 Mini and probably took 5 years off my life. The whole upper bunk area was like a sponge and had to be replaced. Took pics and started removing everything from the cab forward. Peeled back the fiberglass body on both sides and front. Replaced everything and put back together. Would not do again. Good luck....jim
__________________
penjim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2013, 01:40 PM   #4
Senior Member
 
Falcon190's Avatar
 
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Camas, WA
Posts: 871
Same problem on my old Class B (Falcon 190, which I still have). I found a problem in the front overhead, too. And soon I discovered that all my windows had leaked (the windows probably weren't installed properly at the factory, and eventually the seals opened up). The plywood was like a black sponge. The problems weren't visible until I lifted the paneling, which didn't rot. I replaced almost the entire interior, plywood and all. But - no leaks! And much quieter and easier to heat or cool because I used half inch foam, covered with vinyl - both heavy duty marine grade. Looks like a new rig inside! It took about two months working on it almost every day. Worth it? Truck yeah it was!
__________________
Falcon190 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2013, 12:48 AM   #5
Senior Member
 
wanderso's Avatar
 
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,044
Any before and after pictures?
__________________
History: '08 View, '05 Chinook, '01 Jamboree 24D, '78 Apache Popup, 81 Komfort Tlr,
84 Mazda B2000 'w canopy,
Tent from wedding shower in '96
wanderso is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2013, 07:14 PM   #6
Junior Member
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 5
minnie cabover rot repair

Thanks to all you folks. I decided to just start demo and see where it leads. So far has led to my learning how this rv is put together -or not. You are right- black sponge looking ply, etc. Maybe this will get done - if I can remember how it all goes back together. Taking a lot of notes, sketches, etc. Totally surprised at the amount of "bead insulation" where I would have bet there would be ply. Would not want to be in an accident. Live and learn- thanks to all. Jim
__________________
haylay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-24-2013, 11:07 AM   #7
Senior Member
 
Falcon190's Avatar
 
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Camas, WA
Posts: 871
That's what I did: just started tearing it apart. And the deeper you go, the more you'd be amazed at how half-assed they're put together - but how easy it is (and would've been in the factory) to make improvements. I had a clunking sound in my DS front door: it turned out that it was the round metal piece that was cut out for the radio speaker opening. They just let it fall inside the door and bang around! And there's a hundred more things I found like that! As so many have said, those that design these things should spend a month living in them! But I'll tell you what, when it's done it feels great. I have a lot of "before and after" photos, and I'll post them as soon as I have time.
__________________
Falcon190 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2013, 08:06 PM   #8
Junior Member
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 5
minnie cabover rot repair

Just as an example- I was planning on buying a couple of 4'x10' ply to make the two bed platforms. The rear most bed was a bear to get out but did it and took it out the passenger window. After staring and staring at the fiberglass and the ply, I discovered they had used a normal 3/4" , 4x8 sheet of ply with a piece about 4" wide to make the width come out right. Seems to me, a full width board would be structurally correct and much safer. Anyway, I need to do something. Am thinking about using 5200 marine caulking where needed. Have used on boats and it is tough stuff. If anyone has ideas of caulking and sealing tape, would appreciate your input. Also, hoping I can find replacement for the rusted screws, etc. Not sure where to look at the moment, except Lowes, etc. This project is getting me terribly behind on garden, grass cutting, etc, etc. As to pictures, I have taken some but don't think they are useful as I am working under a huge tarp so lighting is awful. Thanks to all--Jim
__________________
haylay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2013, 08:25 PM   #9
Senior Member
 
Falcon190's Avatar
 
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Camas, WA
Posts: 871
Definitely use a full length piece of plywood. That's one of those factory "shortcuts", no pun intended! On windows, especially, butyl tape works best. While you've got it apart, shove as much fiberglass insulation as you can into every crack and crevice, then try shooting spray foam insulation over it. No squeaks. You'll appreciate it later! All that and the screws should be at your local, old fashioned hardware place. The big box stores have a lot of general supplies but lack both variety and people that know what they're talking about, IMHO.
__________________
Falcon190 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-01-2013, 12:40 PM   #10
Junior Member
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 5
minnie cabover rot repair

Need help-- I have removed old cab-over bed wood and have new ready to install. Questions are:
1. Can't seem to find 2" butyl tape. All places seem to have is 3/4". Even a big RV shop same story. Would order on line if I knew exactly what to get and where. Have found some dealer places seem to know less than I do.
2. Is 5200 caulk good for places where caulk is needed? If something is better would appreciate knowing about it.
3. BIG Question-- What I thought would be obvious- I now am not sure. When I removed the rotten bed supports, the fiberglass and bad plywood were in separate pieces. The f'glass has what appears to be a very thin veneer on back. I am not sure if the f'glass was glued to the board and water caused it to separate and look like this or if it really is a thin veneer. So the question is- On this panel and others (like side panels, etc) are they glued to the boards or left separate with just the trim holding it all together. If separate, I have trouble understanding how they don't have more uneven areas (like wrinkle, bulges, etc). But if they are glued, I don't see how they could ever be removed to replace/repair damaged wood areas. If glued, what is best stuff to use and would it be adhered same as vinyl is usually done or what?

Thanks again- hope I'm not taking too much time on these things-- Jim
__________________
haylay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-01-2013, 01:25 PM   #11
Senior Member
 
Falcon190's Avatar
 
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Camas, WA
Posts: 871
Quote:
Originally Posted by haylay View Post
Need help-- I have removed old cab-over bed wood and have new ready to install. Questions are:
1. Can't seem to find 2" butyl tape. All places seem to have is 3/4". Even a big RV shop same story. Would order on line if I knew exactly what to get and where. Have found some dealer places seem to know less than I do.
2. Is 5200 caulk good for places where caulk is needed? If something is better would appreciate knowing about it.
3. BIG Question-- What I thought would be obvious- I now am not sure. When I removed the rotten bed supports, the fiberglass and bad plywood were in separate pieces. The f'glass has what appears to be a very thin veneer on back. I am not sure if the f'glass was glued to the board and water caused it to separate and look like this or if it really is a thin veneer. So the question is- On this panel and others (like side panels, etc) are they glued to the boards or left separate with just the trim holding it all together. If separate, I have trouble understanding how they don't have more uneven areas (like wrinkle, bulges, etc). But if they are glued, I don't see how they could ever be removed to replace/repair damaged wood areas. If glued, what is best stuff to use and would it be adhered same as vinyl is usually done or what?

Thanks again- hope I'm not taking too much time on these things-- Jim
1. Not sure why you need 2" butyl tape. 3/4" works for windows. 2. As far as what type of caulking: it needs to remain flexible; don't use silicone!; and it also depends on what you're putting it on (wood, metal, glass, etc.). 3. Typically the wood is glued to the fiberglass to reinforce it. After you completely clean the fiberglass you can then reglue new plywood on it. Make sure the plywood is treated or the kind that goes in bathrooms. I used vinyl adhesive, the same for glueing down flooring. If you put it on thick it'll fill in the uneven areas. Just give it time to dry. Hope that helps.
__________________
Falcon190 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-01-2013, 07:10 PM   #12
Junior Member
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 5
minnie cabover rot repair

Hey- Thank you Falcon. The only reason for looking for 2" tape is that what appears to be on the original. It is gray and one sided. But, I think I will have to use whatever is available. Seems proper to adhere the f'glass to wood but really wonder what happens when it needs removal for repair. Thanks and I can tell you have been there!! Jim
__________________
haylay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-30-2013, 08:16 AM   #13
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 8
we have been doing our repair of the cabover since April, almost completely done, took all the wood rot out, and the pebbly looking insulation foam board, redone the cushions due to the fact the previous owner claims they never knew of the wet upper bunk area. It was saturated completely, not sure on previous owners comments. But we have learned alot doing this remodel. We are tired and are now taking slower pace. Purchased some nice boarding at Lowes that way we did not have to paint the upper bunk walls, going to post pics as soon as I figure out how too. We are trying to learn how to reattach lower molding trim on the outside so thats our next project... Hope your pacing yourself, remember you will enjoy the motorhome once the worries are done. take care
__________________

__________________
july7462 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
repair



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:24 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.