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Old 02-14-2013, 08:23 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larrydp View Post
The light is powered by both 110 and 12 volts

Why do you think that?
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Old 02-14-2013, 08:35 AM   #30
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This drain has been there since we bought it used about 1 1/2 years ago.

When I said the interior lights are 110 & 12 volt I meant that they light up when on shore power or battery. The converter is running them on 12v when plugged in.
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Old 02-14-2013, 10:10 AM   #31
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My $.02 on a electrical test kit for a RV is go the a box store and get what you can afford

Meter / Analog as in a needle moving back and forth. Most don't require batteries and 99% of the time your looking for a simple yes / no answer. Digital is nice but get one with auto shutoff

Fuse Pullers and supply of fuses as well as fuses for above meter

Sone pieces of wire to make jumpers

The list could go on but
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Old 02-18-2013, 11:09 PM   #32
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Did you say "with only the reefer on". Don't suppose your fridge is a three-way type with automatic switching between propane, 120V and 12V. Probably pretty rare in USA but common in Australia and if they are not wired correctly the 12V element will draw up to 15 amps and flatten a small battery pretty quickly.
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Old 02-19-2013, 08:04 AM   #33
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FYI - many fridges have a humidity switch often located in the door jam - if that switch is inadvertently turned on it will help drain the battery. Also - have the battery tested by someone other than an RV dealer - most tire shops/auto parts shops will test for free.

Report back on your progress - good luck.
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Old 02-19-2013, 09:46 AM   #34
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Did you say "with only the reefer on". Don't suppose your fridge is a three-way type with automatic switching between propane, 120V and 12V. Probably pretty rare in USA but common in Australia and if they are not wired correctly the 12V element will draw up to 15 amps and flatten a small battery pretty quickly.
My manual says it is 3 way. Where I store the unit I have no shore power so when I want to have the refer cold before camping I have to use the battery.
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Old 02-19-2013, 09:47 AM   #35
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FYI - many fridges have a humidity switch often located in the door jam - if that switch is inadvertently turned on it will help drain the battery. Also - have the battery tested by someone other than an RV dealer - most tire shops/auto parts shops will test for free.

Report back on your progress - good luck.
Will look for the humidity switch AND get a second opinion on the battery. Tks!!
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Old 02-20-2013, 08:09 AM   #36
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To answer the question on the leads. You said it is a digital meter? Most digital meters auto compensate for polarity so disconnect the negative battery lead, connect the black lead to the battery cable end and the red to the negative post, set the meter to DC volts. This will read battery voltage when there is any draw present and is not reading amps. This is why it was suggested to used an automotive test light as it goes in place of the meter ( one end on the cable end and the other on the terminal) and the intensity of the bulb will give you an idea of the amp draw.
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Old 02-20-2013, 10:12 AM   #37
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Another battery issue

The house battery in this MH is presumably bad because the generator will not start independently from the motor or engine battery: when the MH engine is started, the generator will start, but the generator will not start by itself.

Is there a way I can test this house battery (Sear Die Hard) to insure it is bad before it is replaced?

And BTW, I noticed some standing fluid on top of this closed battery.

If the battery is found to be bad, which battery type is best for an RV?

Thanks for the assist.

James
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Old 02-20-2013, 10:35 PM   #38
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Any auto parts store can do a load test on the battery to test if it's good or not. make sure it has been charged for a while before you take it in though.

As for the best type, well, with my rig, I am limited by the size of the compartment to a group 24 size battery, and even that is a tight fit.
You may or may not have the same problem.
Ideally you would want a deep cycle battery. Not a marine starting/deepcycle battery, but a true deep cycle battery.

I just replaced mine a few months ago after only about 3 years on the first one, which was a starting/marine battery.
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Old 02-21-2013, 05:20 AM   #39
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My manual says it is 3 way. Where I store the unit I have no shore power so when I want to have the refer cold before camping I have to use the battery.
DC option on 3 way fridge is hard on battery and lousy when it comes to cooling. Many would argue that propane is a better method and I believe propane is actually superior to AC when it comes to cooling a fridge.

Also - unless you fully charged the battery before storing and disconnected it - chances are the battery has slowly depleted during storage. If so it might explain why your only getting a few hours of operation. Batteries kept for prolonged periods with partial charge tend to lose capacity - they do great when you first use them but they may have fraction of the amp hour rating they are suppose to have - load test should determine whether they still have proper capacity.

Hope this helps.
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Old 02-27-2013, 03:26 PM   #40
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My battery would drain every two weeks until I found out that the backup camera was wired wrong and even though the RV was turned off it still sucked the life out of battery. Not sure if this could be related but it may be worth looking at if you have a backup camera. Good luck!
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Old 02-28-2013, 12:18 AM   #41
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You likely also have a current draw from the LP detector but that amp draw is low. You can pull the fuse for that. In my case I added a battery disconnect switch for the house battery whenever the RV is not in use for a few days. Inexpensive on amazon.

One also wonders if there could be a battery isolator issue or a dead short in the system. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battery_isolator
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Old 02-28-2013, 07:22 AM   #42
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You likely also have a current draw from the LP detector but that amp draw is low. You can pull the fuse for that. In my case I added a battery disconnect switch for the house battery whenever the RV is not in use for a few days. Inexpensive on amazon.

One also wonders if there could be a battery isolator issue or a dead short in the system. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battery_isolator
Would that isolater also be know as a transfer switch? Jayco just recalled some MHs and we had the transfer switch replaced.
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