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Old 08-22-2012, 04:45 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marmoss View Post
Update: Our first road trip and some questions.

Just came back from Colorado. It was awesome having place to stay at the trailheads after long dayhikes. I drove a lot by myself providing support for Bruce who rode hundrieds miles on his road bike. Some big passes. West side of Cottonwood Pass from Tyler Reservoir was not easy but going up Mt. Evans on the highest paved road in US really kicked my ass. I am pretty adventorous and done it before in my Subaru but it was different story in Rv. I do not think I will want to do it again. On the last day Bruce rode his bike from Idaho Springs all the way to the top (14,200 feet) - 48 miles and 7,000 feet up. Crazy!


Issues we experinced:


1. check valve on the water supply (where you connect your drinking water hose) started leaking. First trip and already problem? What will future bring? We fixed it.


2. Wastewater hose. We have RhinoFlex kit. It leaks at the first connection-connection to the RV. Not sure how it can be fixed. Any advice?





3. It is absolutely impossible to check tire pressure on the back tires. How can anyone sell this RV with this kind of arrangement. So, if I understood you correctly I need to get Chrome Duallyvalve kit from yourtiresupply.com. Will this kit allow me easy access to both inner and outter back tires? Will I be able to not only check but fill the tires? And what about another mentioned brand: Borg valves. Are these better? Will they allow easy access? I do not want at this time to buy TPMS system. We can live without it for now. However, I would like to know if the kit we buy now would be compatable with TPMS system we may buy one day?

4. Drinking water. We hoped to camp in the National Forrest as we always did in our tent. However, we now realize it is not as easy task to find a place for Rv as it was for small car. and definietely not if you move every day and you do not have much time for this search. Plus some gravel roads are just not meant for Rv. So, we had to stay in the National Forrest campgrounds. There were not bad but we would prefer to be on our own. We also stayed in two RV parks so we coudl deal with tanks and water. We know now that we would rather stay in the National Forrest camps. Just too many people, too close to other RVs, too claustrophobic. So, here is question for you: how do we re-supply drinking water if we do not stay in RV parks? We found dump stations for our tanks but no water source. What does one do?

Overall it was awesome experience. We learnt a lot. My husband was so impressed with everything I gathered for this trip. I was so proud of myslef. We had everything we needed. All because of your kind advices. Thank you so much to all of you who took time, patience and energy to help me.
Your whole saga was a great read. I am really glad that this turned out well for you in the end.
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Old 08-22-2012, 10:11 PM   #72
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Marmots, I also have the rhino flex, and I am able to unscrew and remove the area you show as leaking. I would try taking it apart and re-connecting. If that doesn't work, they also sell the ends separately do you could replace it without having to but an entire kit again.
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Old 08-22-2012, 10:12 PM   #73
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Marmoss, sorry about the spelling...I didn't notice the "help" I got from the spell checker.... :-)
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Old 08-23-2012, 06:10 AM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marmoss View Post
Update: Our first road trip and some questions.

Just came back from Colorado. It was awesome having place to stay at the trailheads after long dayhikes. I drove a lot by myself providing support for Bruce who rode hundrieds miles on his road bike. Some big passes. West side of Cottonwood Pass from Tyler Reservoir was not easy but going up Mt. Evans on the highest paved road in US really kicked my ass. I am pretty adventorous and done it before in my Subaru but it was different story in Rv. I do not think I will want to do it again. On the last day Bruce rode his bike from Idaho Springs all the way to the top (14,200 feet) - 48 miles and 7,000 feet up. Crazy!


Issues we experinced:


1. check valve on the water supply (where you connect your drinking water hose) started leaking. First trip and already problem? What will future bring? We fixed it.


2. Wastewater hose. We have RhinoFlex kit. It leaks at the first connection-connection to the RV. Not sure how it can be fixed. Any advice?





3. It is absolutely impossible to check tire pressure on the back tires. How can anyone sell this RV with this kind of arrangement. So, if I understood you correctly I need to get Chrome Duallyvalve kit from yourtiresupply.com. Will this kit allow me easy access to both inner and outter back tires? Will I be able to not only check but fill the tires? And what about another mentioned brand: Borg valves. Are these better? Will they allow easy access? I do not want at this time to buy TPMS system. We can live without it for now. However, I would like to know if the kit we buy now would be compatable with TPMS system we may buy one day?

4. Drinking water. We hoped to camp in the National Forrest as we always did in our tent. However, we now realize it is not as easy task to find a place for Rv as it was for small car. and definietely not if you move every day and you do not have much time for this search. Plus some gravel roads are just not meant for Rv. So, we had to stay in the National Forrest campgrounds. There were not bad but we would prefer to be on our own. We also stayed in two RV parks so we coudl deal with tanks and water. We know now that we would rather stay in the National Forrest camps. Just too many people, too close to other RVs, too claustrophobic. So, here is question for you: how do we re-supply drinking water if we do not stay in RV parks? We found dump stations for our tanks but no water source. What does one do?

Overall it was awesome experience. We learnt a lot. My husband was so impressed with everything I gathered for this trip. I was so proud of myslef. We had everything we needed. All because of your kind advices. Thank you so much to all of you who took time, patience and energy to help me.
Hi marysia ,
For you fresh water connection, the fix is as easy as simply tightening the connection or replacing the the o-ring (good to keep a few on hand) but you've already got that one fixed.
For your wastewater connections, I have the rhinoflex also (a very good system). One thing I have found is that where the hose part "screws" in to the connectors at either end it can sometime come lose and this will cause a messy leak issue. Before I hook up I usually give the connectors at either end of the hose a turn or two to make sure they are tight.
Ahh, the rear duals. I personally think the designer of this set up hated the fact that knuckles have skin on them. There are two things you can do here the first (and cheaper) is to get a quality truck tire gauge. This will have two ends on it one for the outer tires and one for the inner tires. I have found that if you have stainless wheel simulators this type of gauge does not work well. The second (and more expensive) is to get the steel valve replacements. I have the chrome Borg valve replacements that I got from sixrobbles.com. There is also a system from tireman.com and your site. I think (and I could be wrong) that these are all the same valves. Mine were about $120 shipped. You will also need a truck tire shop to install them. I paid a local truck tire chain $56 to do mine. You will need this if you plan on adding a TPMS system in the future.
For fresh water, I think they sell (camping world or any rv supply place) both fresh and grey/black tanks with wheels and handles for the boondocking/dry camping crowd. But this means that you would need to carry the extra tank(s) along with the added weight of the water.
Hope this helps you out.
Todd
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Old 08-24-2012, 11:43 AM   #75
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Thank you, Todd. I knew I could count on your response.
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Old 08-27-2012, 07:13 AM   #76
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Thank you, Todd. I knew I could count on your response.
Just happy to be able to offer some help. When we were starting out these forums and the people on them were a great help.
Todd
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Old 10-04-2012, 12:52 PM   #77
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Originally Posted by Mr_D
If I tried to list all that I carry:
30' 50 amp cord permanently attached
30' 50 amp extension cord
2-30' 30 amp extension cords
100' 20 amp extension cord
50' 20 amp extension cord
at least 75' of drinking water hose
50' non potable water hose for rig washing
gallons of engine oil
gallons of transmission fluid
extra filters for diesel and engine oil
grease gun and spare cartridges
battery powerd saw and drill, batteries and charger
7' folding ladder
6 chairs + 2 in the toad
5 tables
BBQ and spare cartridges
Spare engine belts
Spare bulbs
Spare relays

See where this is heading? What you carry will expand to fit the space you have!!
Holy crap! I know i am new to RVing but I don't get why so many extension cords of different amperages? Are you full timing with so many maintenance and repair parts or is it usual for people to carry those items?
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Old 10-05-2012, 08:03 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GuidoDoc View Post
Holy crap! I know i am new to RVing but I don't get why so many extension cords of different amperages? Are you full timing with so many maintenance and repair parts or is it usual for people to carry those items?

Don't get intimidated they are suggestions. If your coach is a 30 amp coach you don't need any higher amperage. You do need a 50 to 30 amp converter and they are about $20 and you will want a 30 to 15 converter and they run about $10. You will want a few orange extension cords laying around because people seem to love adding external lights to their coaches. It isn't uncommon to find people with lights hanging from all over the place and some even have a portable lamp post... (I have to admit I went to home depot and made a Mickey Mouse lamp post that I set up...)

The important thing is to have fun and the good news is that you don't have to get everything today. The bad news is that engineers are coming up with neat stuff every day and people like us buy them...

Happy motoring...
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Old 10-15-2012, 01:10 PM   #79
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Welcome to the family. If you think your RV is intimidating, wait until our friend Dunner gets done with you. Only kidding. He is a very helpful person on these threads. BTW, how you feeling today Dunner ?
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Old 10-15-2012, 02:53 PM   #80
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All the suggestions and advice you have received here had been very good and I would like to add my 2 cents.
I like lists since I have a habit of forgetting things. I made several check lists for loading, food, clothes, departure, ect. Editing them and printing out the revisions became so cumbersome; I had all but stopped using them. Then I found an Android App "RVChecklist' from 'Adventure Treks’. This is a great little free app. You can add lists and modify as you wish. No printing and always have your checklist. I found it on Google Play Store. The only other advice I would like to give you is LEARN YOUR RV'S SYSTEMS. Work with everything, several times until you feel comfortable with each system. Even some of the simple things get complicated when you forget a step. For example closing the awning when the awning rod is propped against the RV 8 feet away and you are holding the released roller wondering how to do this without hurting yourself or the RV. Walk your hands back to the 'latch' and make sure you have the rod with you next time. Dumping tanks can also hold some surprises, so when you are at a situation you can dump your tanks, rinse and dump several times until you are comfortable with your sequence. There are more examples but it is more fun if you discover some for yourself. Above all have fun and don't forget to laugh at yourself when you make a boo boo. We have all done them. Oh one more thing, don’t get in a hurry. That is when the biggest 'OOPS' happen. Like last week when I tore out the mail box with the tail swing, oh, and it didn't help the back end of the RV too much either. Well it will be fixed in a week or so. The RV will be fixed in a week; the mailbox post was replaced the next day. Have fun! ! !
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Old 10-15-2012, 06:37 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marmoss

You helped A LOT. Thanks a lot.que

I am sorry but I am still very confused about a metal valve stem replacement. What borg valve stem do I need to install? Went to their website but not sure what I am looking for.

Anyone here with Itasca Navion(Winnebago View) who could be kind enough to direct me to the exact product?

And do I have to add TPMS system?
Hi Marmoss, the tire valve extensions are a critical option! We just returned from our first road trip to the Grand Canyon, and found a low tire on the right rear inside. The plastic extensions ( installed by dealer ) did not work so I couldn't measure tire pressure. ( panic ) I did add air at a "Love" travel center in Alburquerque NM. Found a tire repair shop and had new metal extensions installed. Cost $130. On four tires.
You just need them on rear tires the front should be access able .
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Old 10-15-2012, 08:09 PM   #82
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I will try to take some of your questions,, If I skip one it's cause I do not know.


Q1. I should not connect to house electricity without having 30 amp outlet. How difficult is to install 30 amp outlet?

A1: If you are used to wiring , it is identical to installing a standard 15 amp outlet save you use heavier wire The TT-30 is a 120 volt outlet, Takes nothign special save bigger wire and of course a 30 amp breaker.. IF you hire it installed and find two new 30 amp breakers tied together in your box DO NOT USE THAT OUTLET till it's fixed.. Also if you plug into a 30 amp outlet other than at a park MEASURE THE VOLTAGE.. Many outlets look like a TT-30, will actually accept the plug, and then will blow all the magic smoke out of your electronics. (do many dollars worth of damage). 120 fine, 200+ NOT GOOD.

As others have pointed out, 15 or 20 amp circuit 1 big power hog if you are lucky, 30 2 big items.. Since you do not have a 50 amp rig I won't go there.


Q2. I cannot fill water tank without pressure reducer. Can I connect to house water system after I put pressure reducer?

A2: There should be a "Gravity Fill" on your water tank, You stick a hose in it and run the water, No pressure reducer needed (Or you can pour water in from a jug) On the city water inlet you can fill the tank from most city/personal water supplies, but.. IF you remain hooked up so as to use "City" water a pressure regulator is recommended.

Q3. to replace the original batteries or add more batteries?

A3: If the original batteries are bad, Replace them, Otherwise you can add more **IF NEEDED**. Many do not need to. Now, some folks say you should only connect batteries that are identical to each other... In one case they are right (If you put 2 six volt batteries in series) But in parallel if you put different size or age batteries,,, It will work out. Most of what the nay-sayers yammer about is flatly impossible.

Q4. buy leveling blocks/wheel chocks?
A4: YES, Chocks defently, As for leveling blocks, that or lumber I have 3 inches under one side of my motor home just now.


5 & 6 : Already answered

Q7. change tire valve stems. Why? Are these the ones I need:
A7: That is up to you, If you find it very hard to check/fill the duals, Then Dually valves or extensions may be in order.

Q8. which toilet chemicals are the best? A: Water, no need for chemicals.
Though if you wish to clean the tank, Dawn Dishwashing liquid (Original blue, not anti-bacterial yellow) and Calgon water softerner, half a cup each, about 1/3 tank of water, And drive, then dump, Sensors will show full when you are done (Wait a few days and they should go down) Why: Tank is full..... of bubbles.
Q9. am I limited with TV choices to ones specifically running on 12v? Or, can I get any TV in Best Buy?

A9: NO: There are many INVERTERS out there.. What is an inverter?

Well your RV has a box called a CONVERTER, it takes 120vac shore (or generator power) and converts it to what we call 12volt DC (13.6 to 14.6) to charge and maintain the batteries and power the 12 volt stuff in your house.

An INVERTER, does the inverse, converts battery power to 120vac. You can get good TRUE SINE WAVE (also called Pure Sine Wave) inverters in sizes from 300 watts to more than you ever want to make. The smallest TSW on the market will power your TV, Sat receiver and home theater more than likely.. Though some of the home theaters may want more.

I run a Xantrex 2KW True sine wave job. Very nice, Very "Quiet" Both physically and electronically (no interference with my ham gear) and it also powers the microwave, and this laptop at the moment.


Re: Camp chairs and camp table. I am still not sure where they will be stored while travelling. I tried to load different folding chairs I have in the outside compartments and none fit there.

That is one of those things, Some can be carried on a ladder rack, Mine fit down below.. Or you may have to bring them inside Or carry them in the towed.. Lot sof options there. And I have some big chairs.


One thing I did not see in this thread is a suggestion:

The biggest problem with a Motor Home is they are **BIG** I do not mean that they are long, takes about 10 seconds to adapt to the length, NOr tall, likewise, But they are WIDE, IN fact, there are but 2 types of vehicles on the freeway that can be more than 8' wide without an oversize permit.

One is a flat bed tow truck (Traditional hooks have to be 8' or less)
The other is a Motor home.. Both are allowed to be 8'6" wide.

On rual roads farm gear can also be more than 8 feet wide, but that is prohibited from the freeway (Save for shoulder mowers, which are farm gear for the most part).

Take your new house on wheels to a local mall AFTER HOURS, that is a very big empty parking lot with nothing to hit but the brakes.

Practice a while, You can take some Traffic cones with you and set up an "Instant campground" and practice backing into sites.. You can practice driving on the circle drive around the mall you can learn where the center line of the road is when you are driving and put an Avery Inventory Control dot on the windshield where that line is in your vision so when the dot is on the dashed line.. You are centered in the lane.

But practice, where you can't damage it.

Oh, and BACK OFF the vehicle in front of you.. When driving notice when, for example, a car or truck passes under a bridge, when the shadow fully covers the car start counting, One Thousand One (This is when most folks reach the shadow or so it seems) One Thousand Two (This is the proper minimum distance for cars) One thousand 3 (And for motor homes) One thousand four (Since you are new at it) if you are in shadow, BACK OFF.
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Old 10-21-2012, 11:31 AM   #83
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Have a 2003 Jayco Granite Ridge 1500SS and discovered while camping in rainy Arkansas last week the roof leaks around the rear ceiling fan vent. Bummer.
Because of the age, was thinking of having it re-roofed with an estimate of $4,000.
Saw article about Rhino Eco-spray lining applied to roof by professionals.
However, saw numerous negative comments on You Tube about Rhino coating primarily from those who had pick-up truck beds sprayed, then watched "lifetime" guarantee peel off in places.
Anyone know the viability of the Rhino process on a Class C roof? Is it worth it?
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Old 10-25-2012, 10:18 AM   #84
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Congrats and welcome to the forum.
Thanks John,

Looking forward to learning a lot and contributing when I've got some useful to share.

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