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Old 04-21-2013, 07:20 AM   #57
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Hmm, lots of views but no one knows?
This is an easy one. The bottom line into the heater is cold in. The top is hot out. You have 2 choices.

1. Remove both "T"s. Take one to any hardware, Home Depot, Lowes, ect. Then just get 2 straight in-line fitting of the same size to replace the "T"s.

2. Remove the 2 short pipe pieces between the Ts and the heater. Then insert valves between them.

Where I see a problem for you is, all those connections were done with what looks like some old version of PEX crimping rings. You will probably have to cut them to remove. A small Dremel with small cutting wheel would be best/easiest.

Take a piece of pipe, a removed crimp ring and a fitting to the hardware so they know what they are dealing with. You will need a crimpimg tool to re-assemle. These are expensive, but some hardwares rent them. That picture would also be a good thing to take with you.
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Old 04-21-2013, 08:13 AM   #58
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Thanks clyon. This is what I was looking for. Wasn't sure on how to proceed .I will check out the hardware stores for sure,bring photos and get it done. Cheers...
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Old 05-11-2013, 07:04 AM   #59
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Yesterday, I looked at water heater.In post #20 the pic that shows the unitrol gas valve.Under it is a drain outlet.It broke off last fall.All I was left with was a brass stub.But noticed on the tank a 9/16 hex left that had the brass drain receptical attatched.So removed it .Now I am left with a 9/16 threaded hole at bottom of tank.Can I take my remainder of brass drain assembly to an rv place for a replacement? This will solve my problem of water draining out.I will be able to use cold water systems until I get unitrol replaced,i think. thanks
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Old 05-11-2013, 08:37 AM   #60
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Yesterday, I looked at water heater.In post #20 the pic that shows the unitrol gas valve.Under it is a drain outlet.It broke off last fall.All I was left with was a brass stub.But noticed on the tank a 9/16 hex left that had the brass drain receptical attatched.So removed it .Now I am left with a 9/16 threaded hole at bottom of tank.Can I take my remainder of brass drain assembly to an rv place for a replacement? This will solve my problem of water draining out.I will be able to use cold water systems until I get unitrol replaced,i think. thanks
Yes, take whatever threaded into the hole in the tank to a hardware. Then ask for a "pipe plug" that will thread into the tank. You would want to get one that is brass or galvanized. Also get some Teflon tape to wrap the threads on the plug, this will prevent leaks. In later years, mfgs used white plastic pipe plugs. If you have an RV shop close, you could stop there to see if one of these is the same size and threads.

As far as using the cold system, referring to post 22, I don't see that you have a water tank by-pass system (valves) at the tank. So you would need to at least install a shut off valve on the cold pipe going into the tank at the bottom, between the "t" and the tank. It would be much easier to just go get the pipe plug and install it.
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Old 05-11-2013, 11:55 AM   #61
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Yes,clyon51. That sounds like a good idea.Have many hardware stores nearby. I will check them out and then get what I need.Thanks
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Old 05-28-2013, 07:38 PM   #62
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Thanks clyon51. Went to home depot,and they found me a plug same thread. 1.95$ Now we won't put in tank bypass, yet. Now I can fix the unitrol valve at another time.
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Old 05-28-2013, 09:38 PM   #63
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Thanks for the update Todd, glad I could help. I'll continue to follow the thread if you need more help.
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Old 06-14-2013, 06:40 AM   #64
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Yes, take whatever threaded into the hole in the tank to a hardware. Then ask for a "pipe plug" that will thread into the tank. You would want to get one that is brass or galvanized. Also get some Teflon tape to wrap the threads on the plug, this will prevent leaks. In later years, mfgs used white plastic pipe plugs. If you have an RV shop close, you could stop there to see if one of these is the same size and threads.

As far as using the cold system, referring to post 22, I don't see that you have a water tank by-pass system (valves) at the tank. So you would need to at least install a shut off valve on the cold pipe going into the tank at the bottom, between the "t" and the tank. It would be much easier to just go get the pipe plug and install it.
The port on the bottom of the hot water heater is where the anti-corrosion anode is screwed in. It can be removed to drain the tank but it should be installed to cut down on corrosion in the tank.
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