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Old 11-09-2012, 03:16 PM   #15
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Sorry but your house batteries should last more than overnight. I'd get them tested and more than likely replaced.
X2.

I replaced my house batteries with two Golf Cart 6V batteries this summer and they lasted a LONG time. Days in Yellowstone with no hookups. We also converted all our lights to LED. We ran lights, TV, curling iron, water pump and a few other small load items for four days on the batteries, then drove to the next campgound for three days. Same results.

Check Costco and Sams club for inexpensive batteries (less than $85 each) and make sure you wire them correctly!
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Old 11-10-2012, 12:48 AM   #16
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Thanks again, all good information. Like I mention newbie to all of this so any information's better than I currently have.
Thanks
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Old 11-12-2012, 11:30 AM   #17
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Trouble shooting, should my 12v blower for the furnace work ok when we are plugged to RV 30a outlet? As I mentioned it works fine after a long drive for a night.
Is plugging the house battery onto a battery charger an option for getting the furnace and blower to work past one night, our genie is currently not working?
Thanks
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Old 11-12-2012, 12:10 PM   #18
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Trouble shooting, should my 12v blower for the furnace work ok when we are plugged to RV 30a outlet? As I mentioned it works fine after a long drive for a night.
Is plugging the house battery onto a battery charger an option for getting the furnace and blower to work past one night, our genie is currently not working?
Thanks
When plugged into 30a (or 20a), you have an on board converter that converts the 120v to 12v to run all the 12v systems and keeps the battery charged. As long as that converter/charger is working, you will have unlimited 12v power.

Since your generator is not working, and if you do not have access to 120v shore power, then your battery will run dead in a day or so. Your only option there is run the motor to charge the battery(s).
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Old 11-13-2012, 01:07 AM   #19
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Thanks, There must be something wrong as I have lights etc when plugged in but the furnace cuts off after a night of being on(?), yet as I mentioned after a drive for couple hours it works again? Any ideas?
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Old 11-13-2012, 06:28 AM   #20
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Thanks, There must be something wrong as I have lights etc when plugged in but the furnace cuts off after a night of being on(?), yet as I mentioned after a drive for couple hours it works again? Any ideas?
First let me say this. The first tool any RVer should have is a $20 volt meter and learn how to use it. They can save you hours and days of headaches as well as perhaps thousands of dollars throwing parts at a problem.

This is what it sounds like by your desciption. First you only have one battery and probably not a true deep cycle and we have no idea what shape it's in. When you drive the alternator is charging the coach batt. When plugged into shore it sounds like it is not. This would point to a bad converter charger.

If you had a voltmeter, it should show 13.6v at the batt while plugged into shore. If it shows 13.1 or close, check it again in and hour. Then if shows less than 13, the converter is malfunctioning.

It should show 14+v when the engine is running. A fully charged battery at rest with no load or charge is 12.7v. When a batt reaches 12.0v, it is 50% discharged. It's at this point some 12v items begin to malfunction or not work at all. My TVs do this. 12v lights will stay lit, they just keep getting dimmer. The 12v motor in the furnace is another matter.

Bottom line as I see it, you have a bad converter/charger and a very weak coach battery. It is probably a starting battery (very bad) or a Marine battey (better than starting but nothing compared to a true deep cycle.)
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Old 11-13-2012, 11:20 AM   #21
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Thanks, There must be something wrong as I have lights etc when plugged in but the furnace cuts off after a night of being on(?), yet as I mentioned after a drive for couple hours it works again? Any ideas?
I have two 6 volt (in series) paralleled to a single 12 volt (all true deep cycles) for our house batteries in the C Class and two huge capacity 12 volts in the A Class and both units can boondock for the better part of a week without requiring the genset to be run. Albeit we seldom use the TV as there aren't broadcast channels up in the north of our travel areas.

I agree that your batteries or charging system are highly suspect and should be investigated but also check the water levels in your batteries because they sometimes can issue the same symptoms as you describe. The neat thing that happens you will begin to understand your unit and its foibles a lot better as you search for answers. That's actually part of the fun of the things. At least to me it is.
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Old 11-13-2012, 11:39 AM   #22
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Thanks for the information. I will buy a volt meter and get checking. RV's are for sure a learning experience. Where is the best place to get golf cart batteries? Many thanks
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Old 11-14-2012, 11:50 AM   #23
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We bought our CG batteries at Costco last summer. They were in the neighborhood of $85.00 each and made a huge difference when not on shore power.
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Old 11-22-2012, 09:30 AM   #24
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On my C, when I was discussing the price with the previous owner, who had told me that the furnace did not work, came down in price a large chunk. I was happy. Took the C home the next day pulled the furnace and cleaned the orfice of the spider web and the funace has worked perfect since. I make a practice to turn on the furnace, the water heater, and the fridge at least once a month, to burn out any critters nest. Run just enough to hear the burner light and then turn off.
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