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Old 12-12-2015, 10:17 AM   #1
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Smile No Spark! Help!

Class C RV with 1984 Ford E-350 460 Engine Chassis.

We finally got the fuel issue fixed yay! Now we have no spark though and seriously have no clue what could be wrong anymore...

New parts are: ICM, Voltage Regulator, Starter, Starter Solenoid, Coil, and Distributor.

The only way we get spark with the good old screwdriver test is when we attach the screwdriver to the high resistance wire that plugs in to the coil. With it disconnected from the distributor (screwdriver in it's place) but connected to the coil we get a yellow/orange spark right as we STOP cranking. It does crank like a champ!

We have traced the wires to the coil and those are good, we will trace out the rest today and report back but aside from a wiring problem is there anything else any of you can think of? We took apart the harness and the wires LOOK good but we know that doesn't mean they are good. When I say we checked wires I mean that we tested for resistance, is there another test we should be doing?

We're both slightly electrically challenged so any tips help! We're supposed to head out Monday but don't see that happening now :(

Thanks again!
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Old 12-12-2015, 01:02 PM   #2
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On some starter solenoids, an additional terminal that provides battery voltage during cranking.
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Old 12-12-2015, 01:12 PM   #3
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Did this issue suddenly appear after changing other parts, etc?
Check for 12 volts at the coil with key on... now make sure there is still 12 volts when cranking. If no 12 volts at coil when cranking then you have that circuit on a "run" voltage supply but not a "start" voltage supply. Hope this helps.
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Old 12-13-2015, 08:22 AM   #4
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Issue started before we replaced the parts. Our fuel pump went out so we replaced it and after that no spark. Can't say wether we were getting adequate spark before the fuel pump but it did start, we replaced the pump because it wasn't getting enough fuel pressure.

All ignition related wires look good. I will run the coil voltage test and get back to you.

Thanks!
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Old 12-13-2015, 09:40 AM   #5
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Am I missing something? To test the coil just put the negative multimeter lead on the coil negative and the positive on the positive? If so then i'm getting 5V in on then about 3.5 when cranking.
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Old 12-13-2015, 11:51 AM   #6
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Positive of the coil should be 12v with the key on, negative comes from the ignition module.

If you have 12v at the coil, use a test light with an actual bulb with the ground clip hooked to power and the test light tip connected to the coil negative. Crank the engine and the test light should pulse.
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Old 12-13-2015, 02:29 PM   #7
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We have 11.76 at coil with key on. Your second test was interesting, the light didn't flicker stayed steady green until release then it gave one pulse (green, off, green, then off completely since we weren't cranking anymore. Just how we only get spark once we stop cranking, light only pulsed once we stopped cranking.
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Old 12-14-2015, 11:22 AM   #8
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I believe your engine is using the old Duraspark ignition. Turning the key from off to on, back to off will produce one spark at the coil wire but it should be a strong blue spark. It's best to use a spark tester, it looks like a spark plug with an alligator ground clip on the side of it. If spark jumps the gap on this tester it proves the coil can produce the secondary voltage required.

Is the distributor turning? Remove the cap and see if the rotor goes around while cranking.

12v at the red wire to the ignition module with key on?
12v at the white wire to the ignition module while cranking?
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