Norcold Solar/ Electric refrigerator Winnebago 24D View

[Djhdolphin]

Hi,
I'm new to this post and not totally sure how to use it. I was googling the issue with my fridge and found a thread about my issue but now can't find it again.
All of my other coaches have had gas/electric fridge's and always worked great. I just bought a Winnebago 24D with a Norcold fridge and was shocked when I didn't see a gas/electric auto button. Apparently it only works on the solar power when not plugged in to shore power or the generator. As I was driving home 1000 miles, I noticed that my drinks weren't getting cold enough for me. I then put some water in the freezer and they wouldn't freeze. What is the solution others found with this issue? I'm supposed to camp tomorrow night and I see now that the fridge won't keep Milk cold enough.
Any advice is appreciated.
Thanks,
Donna

[Winterbagoal]

Originally Posted by Djhdolphin

Hi,
I'm new to this post and not totally sure how to use it. I was googling the issue with my fridge and found a thread about my issue but now can't find it again.
All of my other coaches have had gas/electric fridge's and always worked great. I just bought a Winnebago 24D with a Norcold fridge and was shocked when I didn't see a gas/electric auto button. Apparently it only works on the solar power when not plugged in to shore power or the generator. As I was driving home 1000 miles, I noticed that my drinks weren't getting cold enough for me. I then put some water in the freezer and they wouldn't freeze. What is the solution others found with this issue? I'm supposed to camp tomorrow night and I see now that the fridge won't keep Milk cold enough.
Any advice is appreciated.
Thanks,
Donna

Well, you've summed up the idiosyncrasies of the Norcold "DC only" fridge. I know, because I have one. There are a few of us on here in the same boat.
It needs 12V DC power at anywhere between 2 and 4 amps per hour if the compressor cycles fairly frequently. The setting I use for decent cooling of the fridge and freezer is somewhere around "4" on the dial. If the inside of the coach is warmer or hot, the compressor will work harder and use more power.
The real problem is that the factory batteries (NAPA 8240 X 2) in my 2018 are rated at 62Ah each, and that's sometimes enough, sometimes not enough to get you through even 24 hours, especially if you're also applying other loads to the 12V system. Then there's the issue of recharging them quickly, to get ready for the next 24 hour cycle.
I pretty much resolved the recharging issue with a 3rd solar panel. Plus driving and/or plugging in to shore or running generator.
I'm about to solve the battery capacity problem by replacing the marginally adequate factory batteries with 2 100Ah lithium batteries.
That should make the recharging process work better too, because there will be more capacity available before recharging is even necessary.

I know this isn't the answer you were hoping for, but it's the only one I have.

[kayak70]

Donna,


It helps to state the year of your rig. We have an 18V24D with the electric 12volt compressor Norcold, DE0061R model. Early models had some specific issues. The reality is that you must provide adequate power to the thing. As posted above you want to replace the OEM batteries in the house side and possibly add solar. I actually went to two T-1275 batteries until I get the LFP installed.



The best plan is to move to LiFeP04 like BattleBorn and install two of those with another solar panel. If you want to dry camp the lithium solution is best because they recharge incredibly fast compared to the OEM or the big Trojans. The real issue is getting the old lead acid batteries recharged takes a very long time and the refrigerator just runs all the time.



If your rig is a 2019 it may be a slightly better unit than our fridge with fewer issues to check.


This may sound like a ton of cash to dump on the rig but the frustration of the fridge can make the investment worthwhile. Some have even replaced the fridge with a better dual compressor unit but that also requires adequate power. One way or the other you must provide enough amps to run the fridge and whatever else you do in the rig.


Actually you noted that the fridge was not cooling even driving? That could be an issue of charging since the alternator is supplying charge voltage to the house batteries when driving. The other thing is the OEM batteries are possibly toast. That happened to me. Batteries were completely dead withing a few months of purchase. Also killed the converter/charger. Then one solar panel died and had to be replaced - so there are many things to check out. If you have some fairly simple test equipment like a DigitalVoltMeter, DVM, you can verify voltage at the batteries with the engine off and after dark when the solar controller is off and no shore power or generator running. In 2018 WGO put in ridiculous batteries, later models had upgraded batteries - from group 24 at 75AH each to group 31 with more capacity. If you are good with testing a clamp meter is also handy to check the load the fridge is running.


You also need to monitor the solar controller to see how many amp hours you harvest on a good solar day and the max amp charge during peak sun overhead.

[FlaCats]

We all know that the purchase of a new motorhome isn't an inexpensive endeavor, so if the 'improvements' made are not going to stand the test why are they done in the first place. (Not to say that there couldn't be a defect in the refrigerator itself)
Thought Norcold made a compressor frig that was 12 volt or would switch to AC when coach plugged in at a campground. If really available, do wonder why this model isn't installed instead of the strictly 12 volt one. This would at least allow your batteries some time to recover from constant drain/recharge cycles. To have an owner be immediately required to start thinking about the extreme additional cost of Lithium Batteries, any changes in wiring &/or adding more solar panels & all the work involved seems silly.
Also, billed as great for those "going off the grid" or "boon docking", if you're doing this when the temps are high & the sun shining constantly, maybe it's just me, but I'd be looking for the shadiest spot available - whether at a campground or out in the middle of nowhere.

[Winterbagoal]

Originally Posted by FlaCats

We all know that the purchase of a new motorhome isn't an inexpensive endeavor, so if the 'improvements' made are not going to stand the test why are they done in the first place. (Not to say that there couldn't be a defect in the refrigerator itself)
Thought Norcold made a compressor frig that was 12 volt or would switch to AC when coach plugged in at a campground. If really available, do wonder why this model isn't installed instead of the strictly 12 volt one. This would at least allow your batteries some time to recover from constant drain/recharge cycles. To have an owner be immediately required to start thinking about the extreme additional cost of Lithium Batteries, any changes in wiring &/or adding more solar panels & all the work involved seems silly.
Also, billed as great for those "going off the grid" or "boon docking", if you're doing this when the temps are high & the sun shining constantly, maybe it's just me, but I'd be looking for the shadiest spot available - whether at a campground or out in the middle of nowhere.

I think some recent Views/Navions did get the dual AC/DC models. Mine didn't, unfortunately.
Had Winnebago offset the fridge power demand with a couple of decent batteries (which they have addressed in the 2020 models) we probably wouldn't be having this discussion. My Napa 8240 batteries are rated at only 62Ah and that's about as close to inadequate as you can get for the typical overall DC power demand of these models. You learn to be frugal with your DC power use.

[Winterbagoal]

Originally Posted by kayak70

Donna,


It helps to state the year of your rig. We have an 18V24D with the electric 12volt compressor Norcold, DE0061R model. Early models had some specific issues. The reality is that you must provide adequate power to the thing. As posted above you want to replace the OEM batteries in the house side and possibly add solar. I actually went to two T-1275 batteries until I get the LFP installed.



The best plan is to move to LiFeP04 like BattleBorn and install two of those with another solar panel. If you want to dry camp the lithium solution is best because they recharge incredibly fast compared to the OEM or the big Trojans. The real issue is getting the old lead acid batteries recharged takes a very long time and the refrigerator just runs all the time.



If your rig is a 2019 it may be a slightly better unit than our fridge with fewer issues to check.


This may sound like a ton of cash to dump on the rig but the frustration of the fridge can make the investment worthwhile. Some have even replaced the fridge with a better dual compressor unit but that also requires adequate power. One way or the other you must provide enough amps to run the fridge and whatever else you do in the rig.


Actually you noted that the fridge was not cooling even driving? That could be an issue of charging since the alternator is supplying charge voltage to the house batteries when driving. The other thing is the OEM batteries are possibly toast. That happened to me. Batteries were completely dead withing a few months of purchase. Also killed the converter/charger. Then one solar panel died and had to be replaced - so there are many things to check out. If you have some fairly simple test equipment like a DigitalVoltMeter, DVM, you can verify voltage at the batteries with the engine off and after dark when the solar controller is off and no shore power or generator running. In 2018 WGO put in ridiculous batteries, later models had upgraded batteries - from group 24 at 75AH each to group 31 with more capacity. If you are good with testing a clamp meter is also handy to check the load the fridge is running.


You also need to monitor the solar controller to see how many amp hours you harvest on a good solar day and the max amp charge during peak sun overhead.

The answer for me is/was add a 3rd 100W panel, and 2 X Relion RB100-LT 100Ah GR31 sized lithium iron phosphate batteries. So far, so good.

As kayak says, the real problem is supplying enough easily recoverable energy to run the fridge 7 X 24 when you're out there.

[Phil G.]

Originally Posted by Djhdolphin

Hi,
I'm new to this post and not totally sure how to use it. I was googling the issue with my fridge and found a thread about my issue but now can't find it again.
All of my other coaches have had gas/electric fridge's and always worked great. I just bought a Winnebago 24D with a Norcold fridge and was shocked when I didn't see a gas/electric auto button. Apparently it only works on the solar power when not plugged in to shore power or the generator. As I was driving home 1000 miles, I noticed that my drinks weren't getting cold enough for me. I then put some water in the freezer and they wouldn't freeze. What is the solution others found with this issue? I'm supposed to camp tomorrow night and I see now that the fridge won't keep Milk cold enough.
Any advice is appreciated.
Thanks,
Donna

Hmmm .... I'm curious. Is it that Winnebago no longer puts the gas/electric Norcold in their 24D as standard? If not, is gas/electric even an option?

Too bad if true.

[Winterbagoal]

Originally Posted by Phil G.

Hmmm .... I'm curious. Is it that Winnebago no longer puts the gas/electric Norcold in their 24D as standard? If not, is gas/electric even an option?

Too bad if true.

I believe they started to use up any gas/electric units in 2017-2018, as some have said they got 2-way or 3-way in their 2017-2018 View/Navion. My 2018 Navion came with a Norcold DC0061 7 cuft "DC only" fridge/freezer. There was no optional 2-way or 3-way then, and I haven't seen one as an option on the website for the 2020 models. To run them, they've finally increased the battery capacity to standard GR31 AGMs, or there's a pricey lithium iron phosphate option.

[Phil G.]

Originally Posted by Winterbagoal

I believe they started to use up any gas/electric units in 2017-2018, as some have said they got 2-way or 3-way in their 2017-2018 View/Navion. My 2018 Navion came with a Norcold DC0061 7 cuft "DC only" fridge/freezer. There was no optional 2-way or 3-way then, and I haven't seen one as an option on the website for the 2020 models. To run them, they've finally increased the battery capacity to standard GR31 AGMs, or there's a pricey lithium iron phosphate option.

Too bad, then!!

I use two GR31 AGM batteries in our Itasca 24V Class C - and that is the bare minimum for us to enjoy relatively hassle-free drycamping a few days here and there with only a little recharging. BUT ... our two-way Norcold is sipping propane and sipping only 12V control board power while we're camping like this. No way would only two GR31 AGM batteries be enough for us if drycamping with a 12V compressor refrigerator sucking battery amps several minutes every hour (plus the furnace fan running several minutes every hour some nights).

Our two-way Norcold has been spectacular for around 13 years. We never need to use it on it's highest coldness setting. It just sits there day after day quietly keeping our food cold/frozen. However Winnebago installed it right with (i.e.) plenty of ventilation at the back of it.

[Winterbagoal]

Originally Posted by Phil G.

Too bad, then!!

I use two GR31 AGM batteries in our Itasca 24V Class C - and that is the bare minimum for us to enjoy relatively hassle-free drycamping a few days here and there with only a little recharging. BUT ... our two-way Norcold is sipping propane and sipping only 12V control board power while we're camping like this. No way would only two GR31 AGM batteries be enough for us if drycamping with a 12V compressor refrigerator sucking battery amps several minutes every hour (plus the furnace fan running several minutes every hour some nights).

Our two-way Norcold has been spectacular for around 13 years. We never need to use it on it's highest coldness setting. It just sits there day after day quietly keeping our food cold/frozen. However Winnebago installed it right with (i.e.) plenty of ventilation at the back of it.

Yeah, I hear ya on the propane/DC/AC fridge giving you more options for off grid. You can mix and match the power sources to fit the situation. The 2 Napa 8240 FLA dual purpose factory installed batteries in ours could do the overnight thing with the fridge, and very little else. I'm pretty sure if we had to use the fridge and furnace extensively together, we would have been in trouble. Add some TV or lighting and we'd be DOA in the morning. They were only rated at 62 Ah per. Pretty lame if you ask me, for something that cost us a fortune to buy. I honestly didn't expect to see such cheap inadequate batteries in a flagship class C unit from Winnebago.

I just finished upgrading the factory jars to 2 100Ah LiFePO4 Relions with low temp heating/charging capability. So far so good with them. I'm quite sure we could run all the essentials overnight, and still make quiet coffee in the morning. Recharging with alternator/generator/shore power plus 300W of solar, and we're hoping to be good to go, whether on or off grid.