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Old 03-10-2012, 11:47 AM   #15
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AZ, don't know where you heard that. I run my Yamaha 2000 generator in the morning, and if I want to nuke something for breakfast, I start the generator and nothing strange happens. You just don't want to do it with any heavy loads on the MH.

I did the same with my 5er.

Running the generator while on shore power?
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Old 03-10-2012, 12:40 PM   #16
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That is the way it works with my system, may not be that way with all. If I am hooked to shore power it will default to that and the EMS will shut down the genny.
Varified it with coach builder, not hearsay.
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Old 03-10-2012, 12:43 PM   #17
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I guess having an EMS makes the difference. I don't have one.
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Old 03-10-2012, 12:55 PM   #18
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when replacing the spark plug, i have better luck with a NGK plug rather AC. these generators are very sensitive about having a new plug.

for the carb, try hooking up a separate gas tank with a double shot of sea foam.
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Old 03-10-2012, 01:09 PM   #19
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I guess having an EMS makes the difference. I don't have one.
One of the problems with trying to diagnose long distance is there are so many different systems in use. We can only give educated guesses for possible causes and solutions.

Tried to help an RVer last week with a starter issue that thought he needed a new starter solinoid. After asking what model genset he had I found his genny has no solinoid.
Of course that was after telling him how to test the starter relay and solinoid.
No harm, no foul.
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Old 03-10-2012, 01:10 PM   #20
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I would have thought they would have changed. I had bad luck with AC plugs over 50 years ago.
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Old 03-10-2012, 01:19 PM   #21
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I'M not saying AC plugs are bad. i have trouble with getting an easy start, to run once a month, and the NGK seems to work better.
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Old 03-10-2012, 01:39 PM   #22
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Not sure if you have access to the carb while it's running, but give it a few taps with a screwdriver handle to unstick the float once it starts.
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Old 03-10-2012, 03:38 PM   #23
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I keep my GEN fit by running it every month for an hour under load (elec.Heater).
Once a year it gets to go to the CUMMINS Dealership for Gen Service.
If we have a longer Storage time it gets STABIL.
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Old 03-23-2012, 08:23 PM   #24
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I had similar problems with m 2800 Onan in my class B. It was a 1997 Coachmen with only 40 hours on the genset. It would run 20 minutes then shut off. After removing it and replacing the filter and fuel pump, it ran great out of the RV. After installing it, I soon found out it had the same problem. Checked the fuel line, full tank of gas. After doing some heavy research I found out it wasn't getting the proper cooling to the engine. It would vapor lock and shut off. The genset was sitting directly on the floor of the enclosure with no space between the floor and the unit. I shimmed it up as far as I could as the cooling comes from the bottom. That did the trick. No problems from then on and have put 80 hours on it since. Hope this helps.
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Old 05-07-2012, 07:30 AM   #25
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Not sure if you have access to the carb while it's running, but give it a few taps with a screwdriver handle to unstick the float once it starts.
Took your advice and got it running much better, I have now put it on the schedule to run it twice a month. Not good idea to let it sit, unused.

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Old 05-07-2012, 08:01 AM   #26
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Don't know the history of my Onan 5.5 Gold, but when I first used it last Oct, it was hard to start. Had to prime it several times. When I started it yesterday it fired right up the first try..... without a prime.
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Old 05-27-2012, 05:09 PM   #27
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i have the same Gen Set in my MH. Since you only have 2 hours on it I would agree with everyone else, the carb is now dirty due to bad fuel. In my owners documents it tell me to run the GEN 2 hours or more per Month. If you do not then the Slips Rings and Carb will give you lots of problems. If you are not aware of how to clean/rebuild a small engine Carb then bring it to a shop.

Rember to exercise / run the Gen set at least 2 hours per month, it will save you money in the long run.
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Old 05-28-2012, 07:01 AM   #28
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On the bottom of the carb there is usually a philips screw. loosen the screw and put a rag under it. push and hold the start switch in the stop position to prime the geny. it will force the sediment and dirty fuel out of the bottom of the bowl.
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