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Old 02-04-2013, 03:18 PM   #1
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Unhappy Please Help with water inlet!!

We are relatively new to the rv life, a little less than a year living in our 1990 Jamboree Searcher. Recently, we had a spell of cold weather in Tennessee and the o ring in the water inlet valve popped off. Amazingly we found it in the snow. We are trying desperately to put it and the spring back on the post in the inlet, but as you can imagine it is a tricky job. I wish I had some video of us trying to get it assembled. Pretty funny (if you weren't us freezing in the snow trying to fix it).

I have been reading that the next steps are to take the valve out and reassemble it that way or get a new one. HOWEVER, we are worried about how to remove it without doing damage and what kinds of tools we need. There is a bit of corrosion where the valve meets the pipe and we don't know we unscrew it or pull it??


We are using our tank, but really prefer to be on city water.
Advice?
Thank you!!
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Old 02-04-2013, 03:34 PM   #2
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That valve is most likely a check valve. If you are able to hook up the water with no leaks when the spring & post are not in the valve it won't hurt anything. That keeps water from coming back out of your coach when the water is turned off or you are running your on board pump. That way you can put off dealing with the valve until the weather is warmer.
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Old 02-04-2013, 03:44 PM   #3
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Tools needed depend a bit on the RV but normally a screwdriver, Either phillips or #2 Square and a wrench or pliars.

Now there is one tricky part to this.. A piece of string may help as well.

First, There is a plastic collar around the thing, may be small or large, it will have 3 to six screws, Remove those screws.

Now pull toward you gently, You should see the pipe (Pex most likely) attached to the rear, Loop the string around it and tie off (This is a fish line just in cuss)

Holding the fitting on the end of the pex with either pliars or wrench unscrew the inlet from the pex by turning counterclockwise.

IF the pipe falls back in where you can not reach it,, That's why the string.
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Old 02-04-2013, 04:22 PM   #4
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Thank you, Steve. We just tried that. The water came out steady and then after a couple minutes trickled down to a few drips. A couple minutes later, turned on the faucet and the same thing, steady and then it trickles down to almost nothing. Do you know why it would do this? Maybe the inlet is the least of our problems??
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Old 02-04-2013, 04:34 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by cozycamping2 View Post
Thank you, Steve. We just tried that. The water came out steady and then after a couple minutes trickled down to a few drips. A couple minutes later, turned on the faucet and the same thing, steady and then it trickles down to almost nothing. Do you know why it would do this? Maybe the inlet is the least of our problems??
More than likely it's the same problem. There is probably a part that attached to the others that is now moving on It's own without the other parts to regulate it and shutting off the flow. May have to perform surgery in the cold. The procedure in a previous post sounds reasonable.
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Old 02-05-2013, 01:21 PM   #6
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Thanks wa8xym for the feedback. We looked again and it seems that the valve is being held to the PEX tubing with a very rusted fitting. We tried to to screw it off, no luck. Would you recommend we snip the PEX tubing right above the fitting, then with the appropriate tools refit the valve?
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Old 02-05-2013, 01:56 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by cozycamping2
Thanks wa8xym for the feedback. We looked again and it seems that the valve is being held to the PEX tubing with a very rusted fitting. We tried to to screw it off, no luck. Would you recommend we snip the PEX tubing right above the fitting, then with the appropriate tools refit the valve?
Does the valve look something like this:

http://store.rvdirect.com/rvdirect/d...p?ITEM=5310172

If you are comfortable working with PEX and plumbing fittings then the course of action would be to take the old one off by cutting the PEX if necessary. This is a fitting you would not be able to find at a big box store but most RV stores or dealers should have one that will work. Is this inside a bay or directly on the side of the RV? If in a bay you don't have to be as concerned by cosmetics. Then you will have to have the means to connect the new valve to the PEX.
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Old 02-05-2013, 02:46 PM   #8
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Does the valve look something like this:

RV Direct Online Store

If you are comfortable working with PEX and plumbing fittings then the course of action would be to take the old one off by cutting the PEX if necessary. This is a fitting you would not be able to find at a big box store but most RV stores or dealers should have one that will work. Is this inside a bay or directly on the side of the RV? If in a bay you don't have to be as concerned by cosmetics. Then you will have to have the means to connect the new valve to the PEX.

yes, that's pretty much what it looks like, different cap. We are actually at a park that has a store and shockingly they have 5 different kinds of inlet valves for pretty reasonable prices. We aren't super comfortable working with PEX or plumbing, to be honest but we want to fix the problem. We are a little nervous about using force to pull the valve off without doing additional damage to the plumbing it is attached to. The valve is directly on the side of the motorhome. Our main concern with cutting is if there will be enough PEX slack to refit, plus what kinds of fittings to get. I've read about expensive tools that make installing PEX fittings easy, but we aren't looking to spend a ton of money. Thanks Steve!!
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Old 02-05-2013, 02:59 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cozycamping2 View Post
Thanks wa8xym for the feedback. We looked again and it seems that the valve is being held to the PEX tubing with a very rusted fitting. We tried to to screw it off, no luck. Would you recommend we snip the PEX tubing right above the fitting, then with the appropriate tools refit the valve?
On my coach the fittings are plastic, but yes, if you have to you have to, no other choice..

Another option might be to trace back the pex to where it next connects and replace with another type of line, (Which is exactly what I did) But I suspect that same rusted fitting issue may exist there.

Page 2:

The starts out strong and then trickles down issue.

The water heater has an air cushion thus it acts like an accumulator tank If the flow into the RV is restricted, either by use of an "RV Type" Water pressure regulator (Many of which also restrict the flow) or by a inlet that is not properly letting water in, or by a clogged filter.. That's what happens.

In my sticks and bricks I had a pipe get clogged up on the hot water outlet (no air cushion in a sticks and bricks water heater) The anti-hammer chambers also act like accumulators giving that exact same effect (only this time only on the hot side) I replaced the pipe when nobody was looking and let me tell you the shower that afternoon was lovely.
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Old 02-05-2013, 04:40 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cozycamping2

yes, that's pretty much what it looks like, different cap. We are actually at a park that has a store and shockingly they have 5 different kinds of inlet valves for pretty reasonable prices. We aren't super comfortable working with PEX or plumbing, to be honest but we want to fix the problem. We are a little nervous about using force to pull the valve off without doing additional damage to the plumbing it is attached to. The valve is directly on the side of the motorhome. Our main concern with cutting is if there will be enough PEX slack to refit, plus what kinds of fittings to get. I've read about expensive tools that make installing PEX fittings easy, but we aren't looking to spend a ton of money. Thanks Steve!!
If you can access the backside of the wall where the fitting is it would certainly make it easier to repair. I would think that the fitting should have some type of female threaded hookup point on the back side that could be just screwed off if you can get access to it. If so then it could be as simple as just screwing a new one on. It you have to cut the PEX then you're faced with how to reattach the fitting. PEX fittings are typically crimped on with a special tool. There are connectors called
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Old 02-05-2013, 04:57 PM   #11
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BTW, if your vehicle is a 1990, it may not be PEX .... it may be polybutylene. Generally, polybutylene is a medium shade of grey. PEX is usually red, blue, or white.
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Old 02-05-2013, 06:03 PM   #12
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BTW, if your vehicle is a 1990, it may not be PEX .... it may be polybutylene. Generally, polybutylene is a medium shade of grey. PEX is usually red, blue, or white.
It is a medium shade of grey, blue grey. Can you cut polybutylene with the same tools you cut PEX? Thanks!
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Old 02-05-2013, 07:37 PM   #13
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It is a medium shade of grey, blue grey. Can you cut polybutylene with the same tools you cut PEX? Thanks!
You can cut it with the same tool (or sharp garden pruners) but Polybutylene is no longer available. You can join it to PEX with an adapter.

Looks like this:
PEX to Polybutylene Couplings , Polybutylene Adapters , PEX to Poly Adapters - PexSupply.com

Home Depot has them and they come with 2 rings (1 for the PEX side and 1 for the Polybut side). You need the crimp tool to install. Tool is about $50 but if you have an older motorhome you will get your $50 worth out of it bit by bit .....
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Old 02-06-2013, 11:28 AM   #14
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I have seen some connectors that "Grab" a plastic pipe, either you shove it in and the fingers grip or, (I like this kind better) you loosen a cap, not unlike the nut on a compression fitting, slide it over the pipe, shove the pipe onto the barbed connector and then tighten the cap back on locking it in with,, Well, as I said, it's a compression fitting.

Would these work on the older pipe, and on PEX? (Frankly I do not know)
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