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Old 12-04-2013, 12:50 PM   #1
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Problem adding antifreeze to water supply lines

I have a 2005 Jayco Seneca 34ssHd that i'm trying to winterize. I can blow out the lines with air and add antifreeze to the ptraps but i cant suck in antifreeze from a jug into the lines. It has a utility center that allows you to turn knobs to select which way to direct water from whichever source thru its manifld system. Im going step by step with what the owners manual says and it doesnt work. I even hooked up a line directly into the input of my BRAND NEW PUMP and it still wouldnt suck enough antifreeze all the way to the sinks to get a full flow. Think i have a problem with manifold system? Local RV dear hasnt a clue. They told me all they ever do is blow out the lines. So,Am I safe with just blowing out the lines? I sure hope so. Its getting down to minus 15 windchill tonight
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Old 12-04-2013, 02:25 PM   #2
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The water pump doesn't usually self prime, gravity supplies water to pump, then it pushes it on. You could insert hose in antifreeze, then fill hose with antifreeze (a small bulb pump) pinch hose and insert end on pump intake. I use antifreeze instead of just blowing them out in case dips in the plumbing allows water to pool at the low points. This would typically be in an inaccessible place where I least want to repair a split line. I use clear vinyl hose so I can see the liquid in my winterizing kit. Check that all the valves on the manifold are set correctly. (on if connected to something)
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Old 12-04-2013, 03:05 PM   #3
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Book showed to have valves set for antifreeze/sanitize and connect one end of a hose up to city water hook up and other end of hose in antifreeze bucket and it would siphon if i turned demand pump on. No way and how.......it never worked. Never picked up a prime. Has me wondering if the pump will even pump water from storage tank when dry camping. So far all I've done is use city water hook up and everything works fine with that setup. Well, It finally took antifreeze thru the hose when directly connected to pump intake, but wasnt doing it with much pressure at all. I believe the pump showed it was rated for 3gpm/50psi. Sure wasnt putting it out there. Mostly spitting air and small amounts of antifreeze at every device. I started at furthest and lowest valve also, hot then cold. Just seemed like no pressure ! I'd like to try using just the storage tank water to test the pump out, but like i stated...bad weather headed my way.
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Old 12-04-2013, 03:45 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theWonderers View Post
...connect one end of a hose up to city water hook up and other end of hose in antifreeze bucket and it would siphon if i turned demand pump on. No way and how.......it never worked. Never picked up a prime. Has me wondering if the pump will even pump water from storage tank when dry camping. So far all I've done is use city water hook up and everything works fine with that setup.
If your water tank is above the pump, then gravity should prime it, like I said before. Pulling a siphon from jug, hose into city connection, to the pump is asking a lot. A bulb pump like this link will prime the pump when winterizing.
Siphon Pump - Save on this Siphon Pump at Harbor Freight

I disconnect line from tank to pump and attach bulb pump line into pump intake, the other end in a 5 gallon bucket. I have to run around too much with just a gallon of antifreeze at a time. I empty 3 gallons into one larger container sitting up on a table above pump. I can squeeze bulb to get it primed, then move from fixture to fixture turning on until I see pink.
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Old 12-04-2013, 04:11 PM   #5
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Thats exactly how i did it...lol Thank you. Wondering if for sure i was doing it right. I just expected to see red gushing antifreeze pouring out the faucets at 50 psi till i turned it off. Guess it doesnt work that way with the pump. I worried that maybe something was wrong. The book instructions needed to have been written differntly as far as im concerned. Now, if i can find the right tow bar for my 2013 rubicon and figure that hook up....im ready for spring. Thank you so much for your help
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Old 12-04-2013, 06:49 PM   #6
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I was just wondering, since I never had to winterize an RV,but,why can't you just pour it into the fresh water tank and use the 12volt pump to pump it through the lines?
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Old 12-04-2013, 07:05 PM   #7
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With the price of antifreeze, why leave some in the tank? Diluted with the residual water? Better to directly inject into the area needing coverage, the plumbing lines. A little water in the tank won't harm anything if it freezes, the tank's big and the amount of water small.
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Old 12-04-2013, 08:41 PM   #8
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Quote:
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I was just wondering, since I never had to winterize an RV,but,why can't you just pour it into the fresh water tank and use the 12volt pump to pump it through the lines?
and you will be spending all next summer trying to rid the antifreeze taste from the fresh water tank.

IN MOST CASES, the 12VDC water pump can produce enough suction IF one or more of the downstream water taps are open so as to permit the free flow of air through the pumping action of the pump.
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Old 12-04-2013, 10:03 PM   #9
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If you had a self priming pump it should pump anti from a bucket outside the coach, when it gets warmer somthing to check out.
In the spring sanitize your water system and flush out with fresh water, I do it every year and include your HW Heater to avoid the egg smell in hot summer months.
Here is a link to help with winterizing.
Enjoy the forums and stay warm.
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Old 12-04-2013, 10:19 PM   #10
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You're right. Your pump has a problem. Probably an air leak.
At this point, I'd get a very short potable water hose and a two liter soda bottle. Attach the water hose to the city water input and fill the bottle with antifreeze. The hose should screw on well enough to be able to invert the bottle and even squeeze it if necessary to help the antifreeze work it's way into the plumbing. Leave your valves set for antifreeze/sanitize and leave your pump turned on.
If, at some point your pump shuts off (all faucets closed inside), go ahead and open a tap (doesn't really matter where, at this point). In fact, if you open a tap close to the pump, you'll be able to tell sooner if AF is being pumped through the system.
Good luck.
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Old 12-05-2013, 06:41 AM   #11
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Getting the pump to prime and stay primed is what i cant wait to try soon. This RV stuff is the bomb....All you people rock. My hats off to you. Seriously. I might add this website is great as well. Everyone is so helpful.

I'm def waiting on good warm temps to try out the water tank and pump. I have to make sure that everything is working fine. I cant always rely on a city water hook up wherever i go.
Not positive on how the 12vdc pump works with the water tank though.

Question?
If i fill the tank, do i turn the pump on only during the time i want water or do you turn the pump on and it runs and runs till it builds up pressure and goes off by itself? Then comes on and off as needed? I noticed i have pump on/off switches all over this rig...........Sorry if this sounds stupid, but i have no clue. All i have done is city water hook up so far. I've never owned an RV before. guess im taking a crash course on learning now.lol
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Old 12-05-2013, 07:37 AM   #12
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Yes, fill the fresh water tank (don't forget to sanitize), turn on the pump and let it go. It will quickly pressurize the system and turn itself off. When you open a faucet, the resulting loss off pressure will cause the pump to kick on. If the pump cycles on with all faucets closed, you have a water leak somewhere. If you are camping and leave the camper unattended, it's a good idea to turn off your water pressure, be it pump or city supply.
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Old 12-05-2013, 08:15 AM   #13
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Awesome. Thats kinda what I was thinking, just didnt know for sure. Thank you for helping me wrvond and everyone else. I'm not feeling so dumb on this now. Atleast till the next thing goes wrong....
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Old 12-05-2013, 02:13 PM   #14
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IF you can blow out the lines, WHY spend the extra dollar or two on pink stuff you have to dispose of come spring?

Blow out the lines, Drain the water pump inlet strainer and fresh tank, also the ice maker lines and solenoid, and think about this.

IF the air in those lines ever freezes,, YOU WON'T CARE.

One bit of procedurial advice.

Blow, Blow, Blow, Blow (Like 10 times waiting a few minutes between blows) to insure you get all the water out.

The pause lets water collect in places where it most likely won't do damage, but why not blast it out anyway?
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