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Old 05-15-2012, 09:41 PM   #1
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Question on weight

Looking for verification on weight issue. We are looking at a Jayco Melbourne, the GVRW is listed at 14500 lbs and the GCVR at 19500 lbs. Is my understanding that the differance of 5000 lbs is the weight I can safely carry, and this has to include fuel, water, propane, passengers and anything else?

Rick
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Old 05-15-2012, 10:45 PM   #2
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The GVWR is the maximum load the vehicle by itself is designed for, including load.
The GCVW is all of the above including anything you might be towing.
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Old 05-16-2012, 07:11 AM   #3
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You will have to weigh your rig and then the difference between tha actual weight and GVWR is what you can add to the RV.

GCWR is the combined weight rating of the loaded RV plus anything you are towing.

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Old 05-17-2012, 07:27 AM   #4
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Yes the weight requirements can be a bit confusing...
The GVWR is Gross Vehicle Weight Rating and the GCWR is Gross Combined Weight Rating.

The GVWR is 14500 on most of your E-450 campers this includes the dry weight of your camper. That means they weighed the camper without sheets, blankets, gas, water and an empty LP tank. If your class C is one of the 31 or 32 foot just filling your gas, water, black water and grey water tanks will put you over the GVWR not including the passengers and gear.

The GCWR basically says that you can tow a car behind you. You will have to check your hitch rating to see how big of a car you can tow. Generally on a class C it is 5000 LBS.
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Old 05-17-2012, 09:26 AM   #5
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In most cases a Class C is getting pretty close to gross weight when it leaves the factory, by the time it's loaded for a trip, I wouldn't be surprised if it's overweight.
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Old 05-17-2012, 09:11 PM   #6
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read your manuf sticker usually in a cabinet or closet, mine was sent out with full gas on sticker so u dont have to add that again.
Also dont travel w full black- gray (better mpg) & just enough fresh as needed
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Old 05-17-2012, 09:15 PM   #7
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Info:

Quote:
RATINGS are LIMITS established by the manufacturer, which are not to be exceeded. Ratings are based on structural strength, drive train strength, braking power, stability, controllability, and performance. Exceeding a rating invites unsafe conditions, potential damage, may void a warranty, may complicate an insurance claim, and in some cases, may violate a law.

GVWR:
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating
The MAXIMUM ALLOWABLE WEIGHT of the fully loaded vehicle, including liquids, passengers, cargo, and the tongue weight of any towed vehicle.

GAWR:
Gross Axle Weight Rating
The MAXIMUM ALLOWABLE WEIGHT each axle assembly is designed to carry, as measured at the tires, therefore including the weight of the axle assembly itself. GAWR is established by considering the rating of each of its components (tires, wheels, springs, axle), and rating the axle on its weakest link. The GAWR assumes that the LOAD IS EQUAL ON EACH SIDE.

GCWR;
Gross Combined Weight Rating
The MAXIMUM ALLOWABLE COMBINED WEIGHT of the tow vehicle and the attached towed vehicle. GCWR assumes that both vehicles have functioning brakes, with exceptions in some cases for very light towed vehicles, normally less than 1,500 pounds. (Check your chassis manual or towing guide.)

HITCH RATINGS
GTWR:
Gross Trailer Weight Rating
The MAXIMUM TOWED VEHICLE WEIGHT. Each component (receiver, drawbar, ball) of a ball-type hitch has its own rating. Some ball-type hitches have separate ratings when used with a weight distributing system.

TWR/TLR/VLR:
Tongue Weight, Tongue Load, Vertical Load Rating Different terms for the MAXIMUM VERTICAL LOAD that can be carried by the hitch.

TIRE RATINGS
The MAXIMUM LOAD that a tire may carry is engraved on the sidewall, along with a corresponding minimum COLD inflation pressure. A reduction in inflation pressure requires a reduction in load rating. Tire manufacturers publish charts that establish the load capacity at various inflation pressures

WEIGHT and LOAD.
These terms are generally used interchangeably. For the purposes of understanding RV applications, vehicles have WEIGHT, which impart LOADS to tires, axles, and hitches. Scale measurements taken when weighing are LOADS carried by the tires. These measured loads are used to calculate Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW), Gross Axle Weight (GAW), Gross Combination Weight (GCW), and hitch loads.

UVW: Unloaded Vehicle Weight (1996 RVIA Definition)
The WEIGHT of a vehicle as built at the factory with full fuel, engine(generator) oil and coolants. It does not include cargo, fresh water, LP gas, occupants, or dealer installed accessories.

NCC: Net Carrying Capacity
(1996 RVIA Definition, but no longer used) The MAXIMUM WEIGHT of all personal belongings, food, fresh water, LP gas, tools, dealer installed accessories, etc., that can be carried by the RV.

SCWR:
Sleeping Capacity Weight Rating (2000 RVIA Definition)
The manufacturers designated number of sleeping positions multiplied by 154 pounds (70 kilograms)

CCC:
Cargo Carrying Capacity (2000 RVIA Definition)
Equal to GVWR minus each of the following: UVW. full fresh potable water weight (including water heater), full LP gas weight and SCWR.

LIQUID WEIGHTS (pounds per gallon)
* Water: 8.3
* Gasoline: 5.6
* Diesel Fuel: 6.8
* Propane: 4.2
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Old 05-17-2012, 09:19 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Santara View Post
Also dont travel w full black- gray (better mpg) & just enough fresh as needed
On ours it really doesn't make any noticeable difference in mileage, acceleration or braking.
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Old 05-25-2012, 06:55 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davinger View Post
If your class C is one of the 31 or 32 foot just filling your gas, water, black water and grey water tanks will put you over the GVWR not including the passengers and gear.
That is not true My stickers has my weight including full gas, water and LP with 2000 lbs left over for "stuff".

I can still carry a ton (literally) of stuff (2000 lbs) that would not include people, so 1100-1300 lbs.

OP just read the sticker for your particular RV.
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Old 05-26-2012, 09:35 AM   #10
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It seems my statement was taken completely out of context. What I was saying is that a GVWR is a guideline and the good news is that you don't have to hit a weigh station. Yes an over zealous DOT man with a great deal of time on his hands could overhear you in a Waffle House saying you had just finished a week of dry camping and all of your tanks were full and force you to get on the scales but the likelyhood of that is slim to none.

Most 30 foot plus RV's leave the factory weighing close to the GVWR. Factor in that on average with ALL tanks fully loaded that will add around 1100 LBS. Based on 3 40 gallon tanks (Fresh, grey and black) and an 18 gallon LP tank and a 55 gallon fuel tank.

I don't know about you but I will do everything in my power to travel with nearly empty black, grey and fresh water tanks. The fuel tank gets around 8 pounds lighter every 5 to 10 miles depending on the terrain and towing.

I am not so anal that I will weigh the dishes, sheets and towels not to mention the lawn furniture and other things that I carry.

What I am anal on is seeing that my tires are safe and properly inflated and have the proper load rating on them. Properly inflated tires will give you better gas mileage and will make life better for all.

Currently Ford is the primary chassis for Class C's they come from the factory with a 14500 based on an E-450 chassis. The people at Ford don't want to be sued because someone kept their vehicle at 14500 LBS and the vehicle failed. They leave breathing room for a few extra pounds but according to DOT regulations you are in trouble for anything you put over that limit.

I admit my original post was an over generalization. There are some 31 foot coaches without slides on both sides or even on 1 side that leave a great deal of room in the 14500 for gear.
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Old 05-27-2012, 11:15 AM   #11
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jayco Melbourne weight

Thanks for all the imput, I talked to a Jayco rep at the factory and the Melborne 28F's generally leave the factory at around 11620 lbs. This includes full fuel and full propane, this is what they consider the UVW.

Worst case if all the holding tanks were full this would add, fresh water @ 332 lbs, grey @ 283 lbs and black @ 320 lbs, ( not that anybody would travel like that) for a total of 12555 lbs. Add an additional 600 lbs for 4 passengers and the total is 13155 lbs.

Subtract that from the GVWR of 14500 lbs and you have a carryng capacity of 1345 lbs of additionsl carrying capacity.

Hope my input helps, this has been an education as newbys.

Rick
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Old 08-06-2012, 05:08 PM   #12
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HI
Purchased a 2013 Forest River Sunseeker 3010 first part of July. Data plate says it weighed ( dry ) 12180. with empty fuel tank, AC, Gen, etc : as built.
GVW 14500
FAR 5000
RAR 9600

That leaves 2320 for gas, LP, gear, water and goodies

If you max out the front and rear axle you will be 100#s over GVWR, guess youd have to make the DW walk until enough fuel is burned off to be legal.

REAL weights for a real vacation.
Full of gear, tools, extra spare tire, DW's ice maker, D & DW, 2 dogs, full FW, GW, BW, 55gal fuel, full LP and more.
FA 4260
RA 10000
total 14260

Same load but emptied FW, GW & BW a mile from the local truck stop and put 20gal fresh water back in for toliet and cooking, etc en-route.
FA 4480
RA9020
total 13500
Some weight was transferred to the front axle because all of the water tanks are behind the rear axle.

We recently returned from a 1400+ mi vacation in northern NM and N Central and western CO. Averaged 9.7 mpg for the trip. E450 chassis and v-10.

LOVE IT
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Old 08-07-2012, 06:29 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geman View Post
Looking for verification on weight issue. We are looking at a Jayco Melbourne, the GVRW is listed at 14500 lbs and the GCVR at 19500 lbs. Is my understanding that the differance of 5000 lbs is the weight I can safely carry, and this has to include fuel, water, propane, passengers and anything else?

Rick
Your Melbourne should have a sticker on the the driver or passenger door (my 2011 Cambria has it on both) that states the weight of your unit as it left the factory including any options the factory added (not any dealer installed options). This is usually less than the 14500 Gross Vehicle Weight Rating or GVWR (if it is over DO NOT BUY). This sticker will also sometimes do a calculation that includes full fuel, propane, fresh water, and two adults that weigh 154 pounds. What is left is your Cargo Carrying Capacity or CCC that depending on the RV configuration and options ordered or includes is anywhere from 500 to 2500 pounds. Your chassis is rated (on the E450) at 20000 to 22000 pounds depending on the year although most manufacturers will tell you the your Gross Combined Vehicle Weight Rating or GCVWR is 19500. This is what your RV, all your stuff, and whatever you are towing can weigh. Ideally you want the complete package to be below the 19500 for safety but as posted before the manufacturer did build in a bit of a cushion. I would suggest staying below the 19500 limit. One good thing most manufacturers due on class C's is to not give you a lot of storage space so your not tempted to overload. This is not true on some of the larger gas class A's.
Todd
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Old 08-16-2012, 01:02 PM   #14
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Oh, I wish I had had a digital camera back in the 70's and 80's, when it was grain harvest time in south Texas. Here are the rules that farmers usually went by when hauling harvested milo (sorghum) to town:

1. If the tires don't have huge cheeks on 'em, load more.

2. If you can't load more, take time in the offseason to add a board or two of height to the box.

3. Springs are supposed to invert their curve when you're properly loaded, but only on the back axle.

4. Front tires must touch the ground occasionally so that you can make corrections to your drift as you drive down the road.

5. Lightly tap your brakes as you cross the railroad tracks, to bring your front tires back down onto the road (for 'why', see rule 4).

6. If it takes more than three reverses to make a standard right hand turn at a highway intersection due to front wheels sliding sideways, then during the offseason, you should find an old donor truck and add a tag axle to your truck. After doing this, you must also add at least a foot or two of height to the box to keep the springs properly inverted.

7. Chunks of railroad track added to the front bumper are a suitable option for keeping front end on the ground for the rest of the season.

8. Run your oldest tires on the outside duals, that way if they blow out, you don't spend as long at the end of the day removing them; also you don't have the added effort of turning around the one you're going to single out and run the next day while the blowout is at the tire shop.

9. In the interest of safety, keep your speed under 15 miles per hour when loaded. The low speed also minimizes the risk of having the peak of your load (the part piled up above the sideboards) from blowing off as you drive to town.

10. When starting from a standing stop, do not scare little old ladies trying to cross the street by goosing your truck and causing the front end to rise 3-4 feet off the ground.

**This is really not off-topic. I have seen all these things happen. I will NOT admit that I've seen these things happen from the driver's seat

Point is, there is a HUGE 'fudge factor' built into the GVW and GCW ratings. You're NOT going to bust something horrendous, but you might, over time, eat an axle bearing, you will go through brakes faster, and you will gulp fuel like a thirsty calf at a water hole.
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