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Old 03-07-2015, 04:34 PM   #29
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I did weight it on a scale total weight. It was pretty accurate to the oem. Loaded I would be 1000 pds over is my guess. Maybe 800. I don't know if I still have the issue as I will be on the road for 3 was this July and I'm trying to do everything to assure I don't. Pressure is set at max on rear wheels 80psi and 65 front
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Old 03-07-2015, 09:30 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by bulldogs101 View Post
I did weight it on a scale total weight. It was pretty accurate to the oem. Loaded I would be 1000 pds over is my guess. Maybe 800. I don't know if I still have the issue as I will be on the road for 3 was this July and I'm trying to do everything to assure I don't. Pressure is set at max on rear wheels 80psi and 65 front
What was the front axle weight? Rear axle weight? What is the tire side wall weight rating for single and duel positions?
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Old 03-09-2015, 04:21 PM   #31
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I did weight it on a scale total weight. It was pretty accurate to the oem. Loaded I would be 1000 pds over is my guess. Maybe 800. I don't know if I still have the issue as I will be on the road for 3 was this July and I'm trying to do everything to assure I don't. Pressure is set at max on rear wheels 80psi and 65 front
So does that "guess" mean you did not get the actual weight when loaded per general instructions on how to weigh an RV?
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Old 03-09-2015, 05:27 PM   #32
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There are CAT scales scattered around, which would give you axle weights, which is what you should have.
CAT Scale Locator | CAT Scale
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Old 03-13-2015, 12:24 AM   #33
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guess it needs a re weight properly loaded. I still doubt even then the weight is the issue on the tires the way they worn seriously. its not like im 4000 over, maybe (yes a guess) 1000 at most. so back to the psi question. my door sticker says 65 front and 80 rear. the tires say max 80 all the way around, so would you take the front from 65 to 80? also have nitrogen in them
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Old 03-13-2015, 12:28 AM   #34
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ok, so now im truly wondering why a oem would make a 31 foot rv, made for 6-7 sleeping, with a 55 gal water holding, and not be able to add more than 1-2000 pounds, I mean come on, 4-5 adults is 1000 pounds, water is there for driving, boondocking, wal mart parking lots while in transit,etc.

you add 4-5 adults, full tank of gas and water and your done. how is one suppose to take a long 1-3 week vacation around several areas when there is no room left weight wise, for grills, groceries, tools, clothes, etc??
Well, our 2002 Dutch Star DP motorhome had 663#'s of CCC at delivery and all of that was on the rear axle. The front was overweight if I filled the fuel and propane tanks BEFORE we ever loaded anything of even got ourselves in.
Newmar did step up and fix it though. Had Spartan install a 14,600# front axle in place of the 12,000 OEM unit.
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Old 03-13-2015, 12:30 AM   #35
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There are CAT scales scattered around, which would give you axle weights, which is what you should have.
CAT Scale Locator | CAT Scale
Actually you need each tire location weights, just the axle weight is not enough as you can have a 1,000# difference across an axle and an axle weight won't show that.
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Old 03-13-2015, 02:24 AM   #36
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guess it needs a re weight properly loaded. I still doubt even then the weight is the issue on the tires the way they worn seriously. its not like im 4000 over, maybe (yes a guess) 1000 at most. so back to the psi question. my door sticker says 65 front and 80 rear. the tires say max 80 all the way around, so would you take the front from 65 to 80? also have nitrogen in them
bulldogs101, you said you are in Las Vegas? Ok, I worked out of LV for many years, and I do know of the best alignment shop in town! Go to the raceway exit, by the Petro truck stop, get off, and go like you would be going to the Petro, just past it, on the left side of the road, you will see a bunch of warehouses, pull in and continue along the fence looking left, you will see the tire shop. They have one of the best alignment guys there that can check and fix your MH! I forget his name, but they will direct you to him. Tell him everything! He will find the problem and fix it! Also tell him about the weight issue, as he can add springs and fix that issue also! He is very meticulous, and takes longer than most, but he will not let it out of his shop till it is fixed right! He found and fixed a long standing problem on my semi, that no one else could find! And it drove like a new truck when he was done with it, and the tire wear was gone! I think his name was Jeff, but not for sure? Just ask for the alignment guru! The name is Southern Tire Mart, 6875 Speedway Blvd. Las Vegas, Nv. 89115
Hope this help's you! Rail!
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Old 03-13-2015, 08:09 AM   #37
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ok, so now im truly wondering why a oem would make a 31 foot rv, made for 6-7 sleeping, with a 55 gal water holding, and not be able to add more than 1-2000 pounds, I mean come on, 4-5 adults is 1000 pounds, water is there for driving, boondocking, wal mart parking lots while in transit,etc.

you add 4-5 adults, full tank of gas and water and your done. how is one suppose to take a long 1-3 week vacation around several areas when there is no room left weight wise, for grills, groceries, tools, clothes, etc??
OCCC (or CCC as is your case given your model year) was the FIRST factor I used when I finally decided on a 32' bunkhouse. Lots of 32' C's have such low OCCC, it makes it very hard to actually 'use' them. I had my heart set on a real beauty last year that we eventually let go of b/c of the OCCC.
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Old 03-13-2015, 10:30 AM   #38
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Actually you need each tire location weights, just the axle weight is not enough as you can have a 1,000# difference across an axle and an axle weight won't show that.
I'm aware of that, but axle weights would be more helpful than the total weight he got, which was better than when he started this thread, when he had no idea of the weight.
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Old 03-14-2015, 11:55 AM   #39
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guess it needs a re weight properly loaded. I still doubt even then the weight is the issue on the tires the way they worn seriously. its not like im 4000 over, maybe (yes a guess) 1000 at most. so back to the psi question. my door sticker says 65 front and 80 rear. the tires say max 80 all the way around, so would you take the front from 65 to 80? also have nitrogen in them
The 65/80 is based on their estimate of how much stuff you will put in the RV. Since the rear is already at tire max I would interpret that to mean they know the RV is rear heavy.

Taking the front from 65 to 80 would increase the tire load capacity but have no affect of the max capacity of the front axle, springs, suspension etc. Again we are back to needing to know the actual loads on the axles and better yet the 4 corner positions as we know there is less than a 5% chance your axlesw have their load split 50/50 within 100# .

Nitrogen provides nothing to this situation. It will lighten your wallet but nothing else.

I suggest you read THIS post to learn some facts about N2.
Other posts that mention Nitrogen are Dry Air and Temperature vs Pressure

Looking forward to learning the measures actual corner weights.

Also I must have missed where you posted the actual tire size which is critical info for us to use the Load/Inflation tables.

You also mentioned having "Blowouts" in addition to the rapid wear problem. The rapid wear is being addressed with the alignment suggestions.
I wonder if your "blowout" was really simply a "Run Low Flex" failure as seen here. Again pictures would be of great help in diagnosing the problem.
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Old 03-15-2015, 10:26 AM   #40
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Tires have a shelf life of 5 to 6 years. If you look at your tires you will see that it has a dot code on it. The last group of the numbers will have between 3 and 4 numbers. Here's how to read it. If the number is 3501 or 351 that means that the tires were made during the thirty-fifth week of 2001. That means your tires needed changing in 2007 or 2008 at the least regardless of the mileage on them.

What happens is that the rubber in between the belts breaks down and turns into a liquid when you drive on the road the liquid becomes hot and forms steam the rubber has also become weak and you can have at best a flat tire at worst the entire tread section can separate and you can cause property damage to your coach and other cars or serious injury to yourself or others around you.

Also make sure you get the correct load range tire or above for your particular load application.
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Old 03-16-2015, 10:13 AM   #41
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Tires have a shelf life of 5 to 6 years. If you look at your tires you will see that it has a dot code on it. The last group of the numbers will have between 3 and 4 numbers. Here's how to read it. If the number is 3501 or 351 that means that the tires were made during the thirty-fifth week of 2001. That means your tires needed changing in 2007 or 2008 at the least regardless of the mileage on them.

What happens is that the rubber in between the belts breaks down and turns into a liquid when you drive on the road the liquid becomes hot and forms steam the rubber has also become weak and you can have at best a flat tire at worst the entire tread section can separate and you can cause property damage to your coach and other cars or serious injury to yourself or others around you.

Also make sure you get the correct load range tire or above for your particular load application.

Almost correct on the DOT date code.
If only the last three characters are numbers it is possible the tires are more than 14 years old.
The date portion of the DOT serial changed in 2001 with the last tire made with a 3 digit code being in about March if I remember correctly. There was a short period to allow molds to be changed.

Pictures of what the code should look like HERE.

10 year old tires might read 1205 twelfth week 2005
5 year old tires might read 2510 twenty fifth week 2010

A tire made first week Jan 2001 might read 011 or 0101 depending it the tire mold had been updated on time.
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Old 03-16-2015, 10:56 AM   #42
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Actually you need each tire location weights, just the axle weight is not enough as you can have a 1,000# difference across an axle and an axle weight won't show that.
You're absolutely right and that's all well and good, but I would wager the vast majority of us do not have access to a location that will give us individual corner weights. I've still got to get to a CAT scale - and I'm pretty sure I'm in the minority for doing even that much. If there were a corner scale that was a reasonable drive I'd do it, but alas there is not one that I can find.

Plus carting the family and a load of gear to a scale is easier said than done sometimes. For me, I'll be putting a bunch of 50 pound sand bags in locations we typically 'load up' when getting ready to actually CAMP. From there its to the CAT scale, where I hope I'm close enough.
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