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Old 03-17-2015, 11:16 AM   #43
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You're absolutely right and that's all well and good, but I would wager the vast majority of us do not have access to a location that will give us individual corner weights. I've still got to get to a CAT scale - and I'm pretty sure I'm in the minority for doing even that much. If there were a corner scale that was a reasonable drive I'd do it, but alas there is not one that I can find.

Plus carting the family and a load of gear to a scale is easier said than done sometimes. For me, I'll be putting a bunch of 50 pound sand bags in locations we typically 'load up' when getting ready to actually CAMP. From there its to the CAT scale, where I hope I'm close enough.
Lets clarify a couple of points. Motorhomes need to know the actual tire loads so they can select the minimum inflation needs. They should then add 10% to that psi to learn what the morning "set" pressure needs to be.
Multi axle trailers need the loads to confirm they are not overloading the tires and hopefully have no more than 85% of the Max Load number on the tire sidewall as the actual heaviest tire load. Their inflation needs are covered at the end of this post.

Sinjin is correct that there are very few locations that offer individual tire position scale weights.
One option is to check the schedule where RVSEF will be doing their readings.
The other option is to find a scale with enough level space on either side of the platform scales as seen HERE. You might look for a gravel pit or grainery farm scale. Then use the worksheet found on THIS site.

I happen to have a local "hardware store" that sells brick and gravel that has enough space to allow me to do one side at a time as seen in the worksheet. They only charged $15 for the 4 readings I needed on my motorhome. They are about 3mi off I76 just East of Akron Ohio and North of Summit Racing for the car guys that might be interested in doing some window-shopping.

Until you learn the actual individual tire loads I suggest you assume a 45/55 weight split to estimate if you have a tire in overload.

I also suggest that any multi-axle trailer always run the pressure on the tire sidewall to lower the forces in the internal construction of the tire. The technical explanation is covered in this post if you feel you need to know the "why".
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Old 03-17-2015, 11:36 AM   #44
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I wonder why the OP has had multiple tire failures and hasn't had a 4 corner weighing? RVs, are houses on chassis that are prone to overloading on one side or one end or the other. 55 gallons of water weighs over 450 lbs. and must be considered. Especially in a Class C weight is a very important factor in tire wear and safety. Before spending more money on alignment, or bearing repacking, GET A 4 CORNER WEIGHING.
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Old 03-17-2015, 11:47 AM   #45
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I have found in some jurisdictions the enforcement scales will weigh you if they are not too busy. As well some of them leave the scales on when they are not manned.
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Old 03-17-2015, 12:36 PM   #46
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I did weight it on a scale total weight. It was pretty accurate to the oem. Loaded I would be 1000 pds over is my guess. Maybe 800. I don't know if I still have the issue as I will be on the road for 3 was this July and I'm trying to do everything to assure I don't. Pressure is set at max on rear wheels 80psi and 65 front
bulldogs101

NEVER carry more weight than your RV, (or it's tires), are designed to carry.

It's vitally important for you to find, read and understand:
1.) Your RV's GVRW, (gross vehicle weight rating).
2.) The carrying capacity of the tires on your RV.
3.) The correct tire pressures recommended by the manufacturer of the tires on your RV.

IMO any RV owner who overloads his RV, (or the tires on his RV), deserves the trouble he is sure to have.

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Old 03-18-2015, 07:24 AM   #47
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Originally Posted by Tireman9 View Post
Lets clarify a couple of points. Motorhomes need to know the actual tire loads so they can select the minimum inflation needs. They should then add 10% to that psi to learn what the morning "set" pressure needs to be.

Until you learn the actual individual tire loads I suggest you assume a 45/55 weight split to estimate if you have a tire in overload.
So, to surmise for somebody who does not have access to individual corner weighing you are essentially recommending:

A. Weigh each axle
B. Take each axle weight and assume 55% of that number is the actual weight on ONE side (fudging for one side being heavier than the other but not knowing exactly how much)
C. Get your tire manufacturer's weight/PSI chart out and see where the 55% puts you PSI wise
D. Add 10% PSI to whatever the chart tells you, so long as you don't go over the max pressure of the tire as listed on the sidewall.

Do I about have it?

Also, related question: My tires are Michelin LTX MS/2's. They are 'E' rated tires. All the Michelin tire charts I can find reference the XPS Rib tire (also 'E' rated). I'm assuming I can use the chart b/c its the same manufacturer and same load rating?
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Old 03-18-2015, 08:23 AM   #48
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Originally Posted by s1njin View Post
So, to surmise for somebody who does not have access to individual corner weighing you are essentially recommending:

A. Weigh each axle
B. Take each axle weight and assume 55% of that number is the actual weight on ONE side (fudging for one side being heavier than the other but not knowing exactly how much)
C. Get your tire manufacturer's weight/PSI chart out and see where the 55% puts you PSI wise
D. Add 10% PSI to whatever the chart tells you, so long as you don't go over the max pressure of the tire as listed on the sidewall.

Do I about have it?

Also, related question: My tires are Michelin LTX MS/2's. They are 'E' rated tires. All the Michelin tire charts I can find reference the XPS Rib tire (also 'E' rated). I'm assuming I can use the chart b/c its the same manufacturer and same load rating?
s1njin
By golly I think you've got it!

However, I believe you have Michelin LTX M/S2 tires... (NOT LTX MS/2's)?
Here's a link to a Michelin pdf containing the Michelin LTX M/S2 tire inflation chart:
http://www.mrtire.com/datasheets/Michelin-LTX-M-S2.pdf

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Old 03-18-2015, 08:34 AM   #49
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s1njin
By golly I think you've got it!

However, I believe you have Michelin LTX M/S2 tires... (NOT LTX MS/2's)?
Here's a link to a Michelin pdf containing the Michelin LTX M/S2 tire inflation chart:
http://www.mrtire.com/datasheets/Michelin-LTX-M-S2.pdf

Mel
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Yep that's them. Sorry I apparently needed more coffee before I posted.

The chart you sent is one that I found, but it really only gives me the max loads (of the data pieces that interest me/us in this thread).

I was using this to figure out the exact pressures/weight:
Load and Inflation Tables | Michelin RV Tires
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Old 03-19-2015, 01:29 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by s1njin View Post
So, to surmise for somebody who does not have access to individual corner weighing you are essentially recommending:

A. Weigh each axle
B. Take each axle weight and assume 55% of that number is the actual weight on ONE side (fudging for one side being heavier than the other but not knowing exactly how much)
C. Get your tire manufacturer's weight/PSI chart out and see where the 55% puts you PSI wise
D. Add 10% PSI to whatever the chart tells you, so long as you don't go over the max pressure of the tire as listed on the sidewall.

Do I about have it?

Also, related question: My tires are Michelin LTX MS/2's. They are 'E' rated tires. All the Michelin tire charts I can find reference the XPS Rib tire (also 'E' rated). I'm assuming I can use the chart b/c its the same manufacturer and same load rating?
Yep you got it
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Old 03-19-2015, 02:34 PM   #51
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Yep you got it
Sweet !!!
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Old 03-23-2015, 07:13 PM   #52
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Ok. I'm going to jump into this, If I read the op correct he's having tread wear problems. Not side wall problems, not screws rubbing, I owned a 31ft class c on a gm chassis, Not the smart thing to do but I pulled a 28ft car trailer with a car, golf cart, tools. trailer wt was 10k. Plus the water and fuel. I grossly overloaded the unit, Never had a tire problem. I will say based on the discription of the tread wear. I would be looking at the differential being bent, or somehow moving side to side. The other thing would be to check the wheels. the centers could be cracked. something is causing un even weight on the duel wheels/tires. The axle tube from the center section of the differential could also be cracked, check the spring bushings, shakels, and the center bolt. Good luck.
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Old 03-23-2015, 08:31 PM   #53
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Something to consider here is the location. Located in Las Vegas, if you are using the coach in summer, the tires are already going to be running hot and not as able to shed heat as if they were driving on asphalt that was, say 70 degrees. Add to that being 1000 pounds over, and it wouldn't shock me to discover that the lifespan of the tires has indeed been shortened to about half their normal life. Additional random thought -- is the motorhome stored in such a way that the sun hits the driver's side?

You've also got the 8,000 miles that you don't have a history on, where the tires could have been run underinflated/way overloaded/attacked by gnomes/etc and while not failing the tire at the time, could have shortened the overall life of the tires.

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Old 03-23-2015, 08:42 PM   #54
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On all our previous MH's we went with the tire charts, but the Magna we just got has instructions to run all the tires at the max pressure on the wall sticker. The OEM TPMS is set for that also and I've got to admit that the tires run much cooler than they did on the last Dutch Star even after the front tire upgrade. Ride is OK too but it definitely needs better shocks on the front, the KONI reds just aren't good enough.
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Old 03-24-2015, 07:14 PM   #55
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Still missing the fact. He's dealing with TREAD WEAR. Not sidewall failure, Dry rot, Yes inflation pressures will affect the tire wear, But He's eating the treads. Tire pressures will reduce and damage the sidewall. Scuffing, wears treads. Again check the wheels for cracked centers, or bent axle tube, spring problem.
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Old 03-24-2015, 09:37 PM   #56
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Badly overheated tires can cause uneven tread wear as well. But I agree setting front and back alignment is a good move at this point.

Steve
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