Community Forums

llewkcalb · 04-13-2019, 04:49 PM

I have a 24 ft 2005 Gulfstream BT Cruiser Class C MH. I'm finding some real problems with the sofa slideout - it is 72" above floor rack and pinyon type, it has single rack in center of the slideout, Power Gear electric slideout.
The floor of the slideout seems to be 3/8 in plywood, then under that 1 inch of foam insulation, then below that another plywood layer, lowest one covered with the moisture barrier. The lowest plywood layer is basically totally sopping wet and shredded around the edges and I can't imagine not replacing it.

It looks like there is a cast iron brace that goes across the bottom edge of the 72" opening in the coach wall, and one end of it, which is screwed into the plywood of the coach subfloor, has pulled free, because there is some rotten wood there too. This loose framing part has made it so the slideout does not retract properly, and that seems to be a big part of the leak on the slideout.

Now, if I were rich, I would have probably traded Walter (my RV) in for a new one. But I am not rich. Indeed, I am so not rich that I know I will not be able to afford the couple thousand bucks it would cost to pay someone fix this mess for me.

So, see, I think that the single rack electric slideout mechanism is simple enough that I can probably take out the whole rotten subfloor (all 3 layers and moisture barrier), without actually taking out the slideout, but while the floor is out, I will be able to hopefully repair the pulled out screws on the wrought iron brace on the coach by repairing the rotted wood there with epoxy resins. Then I can put a new subfloor in - same layers, but with marine plywood, maybe, again, without having taken out the whole slide.

I've seen a couple comments here on irv2 where people mentioned doing just that, seen a you tube video where someone did it. But I have also seen lots more posts and you tube videos where people say you have to take out the slide out to replace the subfloor.

My question is, am I insane to think this is possible? Anybody have tips/warnings/things I'm forgetting etc.?

Dynadave · 04-13-2019, 05:16 PM

The old rack and pinion slides were more reliable than the new drives employing multiple electric motors and gear tracks. I say go for the DIY wood replacement, it shouldn’t be too difficult and it needs to be done.

stearn · 04-13-2019, 05:40 PM

Helped a friend repair his slide floor with a product called “get rot” West Marine has it and Home Depot has something similar. We drilled several holes to get the product to adsorb into the wood. We braced the floor from the bottom . You should find information online. When we were done it was a fiberglass floor. That was five years ago still good.

llewkcalb · 04-13-2019, 05:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stearn

Helped a friend repair his slide floor with a product called “get rot” West Marine has it and Home Depot has something similar. We drilled several holes to get the product to adsorb into the wood. We braced the floor from the bottom . You should find information online. When we were done it was a fiberglass floor. That was five years ago still good.

How far gone was the wood in his slide floor? Mine is so bad that the lower plywood is crumbling - at least what I can see of it.

stearn · 04-13-2019, 06:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by llewkcalb

How far gone was the wood in his slide floor? Mine is so bad that the lower plywood is crumbling - at least what I can see of it.

His was rotten rear section about 2 1/2 feet . We cut a piece of plywood to fit underneath covered with waxed paper so floor wouldn’t stick to plywood bracing. His floor was sagging and could pick out rotted wood with hands. We poured product over rotted wood. Get Rot is used on wood boats it displaces moisture then dries to a hard surface. RV repair shop estimated minimum $2500.00 to take out slide to repair the floor.

llewkcalb · 04-13-2019, 06:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stearn

His was rotten rear section about 2 1/2 feet . We cut a piece of plywood to fit underneath covered with visqueen so floor wouldn’t stick to plywood bracing.

So the piece of plywood you cut was just to brace the floor while it was curing? Then you took that piece out after the epoxy had cured?

Think I might try this. First I will take off the moisture seal so the wood can dry out thoroughly plus I need to know where the damage is and can't see that with the moisture seal in place. Then I will figure out how to drill the holes, drill them, then place a new moisture seal to hold in the epoxy, then the plywood brace you mentioned, then brace it and do the epoxy treatment and allow it to cure, then seal the edges.

It might not work, but it seems like it is a lot easier than taking the floor out, and it might work, the epoxy will cost only a couple hundred probably.

TriGlider · 04-13-2019, 07:04 PM

Brian from RV with Tito recently did a YouTube video showing replacement of some water damaged flooring in his motorhome. He's doing a complete upgrade to the interior of his unit. Here's a link to it...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o0F-GQaBcVU

Alan

stearn · 04-13-2019, 07:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by llewkcalb

So the piece of plywood you cut was just to brace the floor while it was curing? Then you took that piece out after the epoxy had cured?

Think I might try this. First I will take off the moisture seal so the wood can dry out thoroughly plus I need to know where the damage is and can't see that with the moisture seal in place. Then I will figure out how to drill the holes, drill them, then place a new moisture seal to hold in the epoxy, then the plywood brace you mentioned, then brace it and do the epoxy treatment and allow it to cure, then seal the edges.

It might not work, but it seems like it is a lot easier than taking the floor out, and it might work, the epoxy will cost only a couple hundred probably.

Yes we supported the underside to make it all flat. His floor was bulging underneath. Once cured we removed bracing. We poured into the rotted wood it penetrated all through the area and self leveled. The epoxy sealed the edges very nicely. I would think it would be difficult to remove that floor. We found the top edge of the slide looked like it never was caulked , so leaked on that floor for some time. Just think it thru it’s harder explaining than doing.
Good Luck! let us know how you made out!

llewkcalb · 04-13-2019, 07:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TriGlider

Brian from RV with Tito recently did a video showing replacement of some water damaged flooring in his motorhome.

That's definitely a keeper - thanks so much!

After seeing what has happened in the slide, I am going to be taking up all the flooring to see if there are other areas to worry about.

keymastr · 04-18-2019, 06:53 PM

I have used Git-Rot before and did not have the results above. It sounds like your wood is too soft to save. I suppose it is worth a try though.

Ron Dittmer · 04-19-2019, 01:30 PM

I wonder how hard it would be to remove the slide out. Not just for a better repair job, but also for a better inspection. I am sure slide-outs can be removed, just not sure how difficult. I imagine the furnishings in the slide out would have to be first removed, just to lighten the box for better handling.

I also wonder about the gaskets for the slide out. They may need replacing to prevent future water damage.

llewkcalb · 04-20-2019, 02:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ron Dittmer

I wonder how hard it would be to remove the slide out. Not just for a better repair job, but also for a better inspection. I am sure slide-outs can be removed, just not sure how difficult. I imagine the furnishings in the slide out would have to be first removed, just to lighten the box for better handling.

I also wonder about the gaskets for the slide out. They may need replacing to prevent future water damage.

Thanks for your reply. Yes I have been going back and forth in my mind about this.

It seems like they used 1/4 plywood top and bottom of foam slab insulation, with wood framing around the edges. The bottom plywood is horribly shredded in the parts I can see. The underbelly covering holds the water there and promotes the rot IMO. If you look at photos and videos of people replacing subflooring it is always rotted wherever there is waterproof underbelly. It just doesn't seem like a good idea.

There is a lot of just looking at it and thinking about it. I know the Gulfstream people put their slideouts on stilts to replace the subfloor. But I may end up taking the slide out out for the reason you mentioned. It is a small one - 72" by 30" - and the slide out mechanism is pretty simple. I have already cleared it out. All that's left is the floor itself.

First I need to make sure I fix the leaks though. I broke down and got a slide topper, and am figuring it out a little bit at a time. The only adjustment I can see on the slideout is a height adjustment.

Investigation continues.

153stars · 05-17-2019, 07:11 AM

If this rot was more from .outside to in. And you do full blown repair.
You might want to consider bottom layer or probably two glued together of what I call chemlight . It's a composite paneling used in bathroom and other waterproof walls. Textured shiny sold at Menards Home depot.
I Repaired older TT door on both sides . The old door had similar but half as thick made a sandwich wood frame foam all glued. SOLID as all get out to this day.

aknavy · 05-17-2019, 07:43 AM

I haven't worked on a slide out floor, but when I had my bedroom floor replaced, the shop screwed stilts into the outer wall/trim area(using the holes that are already there), then jacked them up a bit to give access to the floor. It allowed them to replace the floor without removing the slideout.