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Old 12-20-2012, 06:52 AM   #29
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Do they do it while you wait? CampingWorld isn't that close to where we live and staying at a motel in Nashville overnight would cost a lot more than the $90 the test would cost.
Doesn't take long - give them a call and set up an appt - no need to leave rig or stay in hotel. You might find other RV outlets that can do same work that are closer to your home - let your fingers do the walking and make some phone calls. Good luck and Merry Christmas.
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Old 12-20-2012, 04:16 PM   #30
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Here is some more and probably useless information, experiences of the leak monster.
Bought an old class c and found wood rot here, there, everywhere.
Tried pressure testing (rented a high volume blower and lots of duct tape) but it turned out that the motor home was so poorly sealed in the first place that it was difficult to spot the small roof leaks. Finally just cleaned and sealed all the windows and clearance lights and all roof areas that looked like a problem. Still the roof leaks. In desperation did a "pool and run" test. Took a hose up on the roof with a spray nozzle and did an artificial rain on the roof. Found two places where water pooled and a few areas where most of the water gravitated to and ran off. After marking the locations and dry off discovered some questionable roof edge areas and seams. Fixed those and recoated the pooling and run off areas (I am cheap, used silicone, dicor, and a high quality "paint on" roof sealant). After two years, so far, so good.
Please note though, if your motor home is fairly well sealed I really do recommend a pressure test (CW or whom ever).

Good luck and don't give up!! I enjoy and appreciate your pet posts!!!
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Old 12-21-2012, 02:18 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by gklehner View Post
Here is some more and probably useless information, experiences of the leak monster.
Most information is not useless. I'm absorbing it all.

Quote:
Bought an old class c and found wood rot here, there, everywhere.
Tried pressure testing (rented a high volume blower and lots of duct tape) but it turned out that the motor home was so poorly sealed in the first place that it was difficult to spot the small roof leaks.
After walking throug it the other day, this seems to be a problem with these old Class-Cs. To make it airtight seems almost impossible. It would take rolls of tape and some way to seal the A/C and the 5 vents. The sink and bathtub drains. The places where the pipes enter/leave. Around and under the dashboard. Where the walls join the floor. This would be a huge job for us if we could even seal all these areas with tape and plastic wrap. And we still wont know if the Fantastic van and the C's fan in the dashboard would create enough pressure to bubble the soapy water on the roof.

Quote:
Finally just cleaned and sealed all the windows and clearance lights and all roof areas that looked like a problem. Still the roof leaks. In desperation did a "pool and run" test. Took a hose up on the roof with a spray nozzle and did an artificial rain on the roof. Found two places where water pooled and a few areas where most of the water gravitated to and ran off.
We have several areas where water pools also. I guess years of snow weight and weight from storage bins on the roof plus whoever walked on it over the years made a few areas sink a little. These will hold rain water. You would think the 4 coats of Dicor plus all the sealant would make them watertight. Maybe they are since we don't know where it's coming in yet.

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After marking the locations and dry off discovered some questionable roof edge areas and seams. Fixed those and recoated the pooling and run off areas (I am cheap, used silicone, dicor, and a high quality "paint on" roof sealant).
Did you put the "paint on" roof sealant over the Dicor?


Quote:
After two years, so far, so good.
Please note though, if your motor home is fairly well sealed I really do recommend a pressure test (CW or whom ever).
When we get back in April I'll call CW and see what they can do for us. There is an RV place closer but from what I understand their prices are for the Rockerfellers and Vanderbilts, if you get my drift. They also, and I know this for a fact, don't care to work on RV they themselves didn't sell. Perhaps that's why only the well heeled can afford to go there. They don't want the business.


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Good luck and don't give up!! I enjoy and appreciate your pet posts!!!
We wont give up. We need this 3 month rest from it. It was really starting to get to both of us.
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Old 12-21-2012, 02:19 AM   #32
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Doesn't take long - give them a call and set up an appt - no need to leave rig or stay in hotel. You might find other RV outlets that can do same work that are closer to your home - let your fingers do the walking and make some phone calls. Good luck and Merry Christmas.
I hope you all have a great Holiday Season!
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Old 12-24-2012, 08:26 PM   #33
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Talking leaky roof

did you reseal all the clearance lights can use roll of plumbers putty
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Old 12-24-2012, 08:38 PM   #34
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leaky roof

any body can pressureize motorhome or house them self get your self fan from an old furnace put in doorway cover rest of doorway with tarp u can negitive or posiktive pressure motorhome then use smoke stick to findleaks
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Old 12-25-2012, 01:17 AM   #35
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did you reseal all the clearance lights can use roll of plumbers putty
I'm not sure if he did them or not. It's covered for the winter now so I can't go out and look. Apparently something was missed since, after we took an hours ride in it, it started leaking again with the next rain.

We'll get back to it in April.
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Old 12-25-2012, 01:20 AM   #36
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any body can pressureize motorhome or house them self get your self fan from an old furnace put in doorway cover rest of doorway with tarp u can negitive or posiktive pressure motorhome then use smoke stick to findleaks
And you found an old furnace fan somewhere and did this yourself on a 20 yr old Class-C? Where did you find and old furnace fan?
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Old 12-25-2012, 01:33 AM   #37
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And you found an old furnace fan somewhere and did this yourself on a 20 yr old Class-C? Where did you find and old furnace fan?
If you check with anyone in the HVAC business, they have good useable ones from furnace upgrades all the time. Also, eBay, or Craig's list. Used Ruud Gas Furnace Scroll Fan with Electric Motor | eBay

If you're handy enough to paint and caulk your own RV roof, pressurizing an RV is not hard. A roll of duct tape, a bit of plastic tarping and it's less than an hour's work to get it sealed up to test.
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Old 12-28-2012, 04:19 AM   #38
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If you check with anyone in the HVAC business, they have good useable ones from furnace upgrades all the time. Also, eBay, or Craig's list. Used Ruud Gas Furnace Scroll Fan with Electric Motor | eBay
We'll have to use the RVs fan and the FantasticFan in the spring. That is, unless he gets the leak repaired by rechecking and redoing all the seams again before sinking another $150 into this RV for a used furnace fan, not even knowing how to, or even if, this old RV can be made airtight.

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If you're handy enough to paint and caulk your own RV roof, pressurizing an RV is not hard. A roll of duct tape, a bit of plastic tarping and it's less than an hour's work to get it sealed up to test.
I guess you've seen it done and then did it yourself to an old 28' Class-C ? And you did it in less than an hour? What all did you tape with the roll of duct tape? We've never seen this done so can't picture it. Where did you put the plastic tarping? What kind of plastic? Regular blue tarp or the plastic painters use? How did the tarp help make it air tight? Did you go foot by foot along the roof edge and vents with the soapy water?
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Old 12-28-2012, 05:54 AM   #39
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I've made many an inflatable 'room' out of 4-6 mil plastic sheeting and duct tape. Cut a rectangle of plastic wide enough to wrap around the 4 sides of a box fan. Form a tube with the rectangle and connect the floor fan to another sheet large enough to cover the door (or a window) Tape it over the opening and turn the fan on. If, as you earlier said, the roof vents don't seal, you can tape plastic over the opening inside or put a pillow in the vent and tape or tie in place. You don't need a lot of pressure. Then use a mop or rag and wipe the soapy water over the suspected seams and window openings. If you don't build enough pressure in your 'old 28' class C' then you could add another floor fan with another plastic tube at a window. Whole houses are leak tested by a small fan blowing into a door opening covered by plastic, an RV is much smaller. It is doable.
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Old 12-29-2012, 07:14 AM   #40
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I've made many an inflatable 'room' out of 4-6 mil plastic sheeting and duct tape. Cut a rectangle of plastic wide enough to wrap around the 4 sides of a box fan. Form a tube with the rectangle and connect the floor fan to another sheet large enough to cover the door (or a window) Tape it over the opening and turn the fan on. If, as you earlier said, the roof vents don't seal, you can tape plastic over the opening inside or put a pillow in the vent and tape or tie in place. You don't need a lot of pressure. Then use a mop or rag and wipe the soapy water over the suspected seams and window openings. If you don't build enough pressure in your 'old 28' class C' then you could add another floor fan with another plastic tube at a window. Whole houses are leak tested by a small fan blowing into a door opening covered by plastic, an RV is much smaller. It is doable.
Gotcha. This I can picture. Thanks.
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Old 01-14-2013, 02:55 PM   #41
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Try checking the front position lights as they often get brittle gaskets and will leak. Replace gaskets...very inexpensive...and that should solve the problem. Just remember, anywhere there is ANY opening in the roof, it is a probable leak.
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Old 01-14-2013, 09:36 PM   #42
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I pressure tested my RV by using a carpet fan placed in a window supported by a ladder. Washed it with soapy water and looked for the bubbles. You can rent a carpet fan from Home Depot. That type of fan produces a lot of pressure. Good luck
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