Thanks. For us, our Jamboree (Tioga is essentially the same) was the best compromise of meeting our needs. Look for the 24D model. We found a 2001 with 18k miles in great shape. Model specs: http://fleetwoodrv.com/frvlibrary/do...2001_jar_b.pdf
. Winnebago has models with a similar layout for the era.
The Ralleye is the entry model. The standard Jamboree and Tioga have added cabinets in the bathroom, shower surround and fancier exterior trim.
Areas to watch for leaks: rigs of this vintage have a rubber roof membrane. Many folks prefer metal or fiberglass but they can readily leak as well. The leak prone areas on class c are over the cab/sleeping area, and in the rear bath area near the skylight and roof vent. Check the TV antenna and fridge as well. (TV antenna has a simple o-ring that wears out, allowing water to enter along the crankshaft). Ours had a leak at the skylight I found on inspection and required the dealer to remove the skylight as well as all of the dicor self leveling caulk in that area, re-seat it and re-apply. In our case there were no structural compromises as a result of the leak and it is no longer an issue. I did use it as a price reduction point regardless. The prior owner had attempted a cheesy repair with gobs of stuff that did not work. If you get a chance to see a rig in the rain, do so. We found a surprising number with leaks and sidewall delamination problems on several rigs that caused me to decide to walk away. Sadly, so many people park their RVs outdoors and do not inspect them for leaks during the off season. We have friends with a 5th wheel they bought new in 2001, camped twice and parked it for 10 years. Leaks came in and dry rotted the entire floor in the back kitchen area - taking a $30,000 rig (new) that was sold for $2,500.
Not having a slide out allows for more net cargo carrying capacity (how much gear and people you can carry). The hitch on some rigs (ours) is limited to 3,500 pounds, which does impact the size of towable if you choose to pull a dinghy. Many newer rigs have 5,000 pound tow hitches but you still need to keep an eye on the max "gross combined weight rating (GCWR). Just because it has a 5,000 pound capacity hitch does not mean that your rig can tow without being overweight.
Tip: if it does not have a built-in microwave installed, there is electric already run for it under the overhead cabinet floor in the cabinet nearest to the door. That was our first easy upgrade. I also used that cabinet door to add more storage to the left of the stove (wasted space).
These rigs have the generator directly behind the drivers door and fresh water is under the dinette. Some other competitors place these under the rear corner bed and behind the axle. This impacts handling characteristics by placing a lot of weight behind the rear axle. Our plumbing is also PEX style rather than the grey plastic stuff found in older rigs (brittle). This makes for easier fixes should you ever need to repair.
I've been tempted to change the rear bed into an L-Shaped dinette like what was available on Winnebagos of the vintage and is an option on the current 24 foot Jamboree DSL. This would give added seating area for when we camp with friends. The drawback is a less comfortable bed (foam instead of innerspring mattress). A portion of the under bed area is wasted space - another place where you can add a cabinet door and increase inside storage, install a small hidden safe, etc.
For us, having this class C has really opened up options for us that we would not otherwise have due to a family member with medical issues.
Hope this is helpful.