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Old 10-24-2010, 08:17 AM   #15
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If you are having as much fun as you're supposed to in the great outdoors, your RV TV belongs in the toilet, right?
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Old 10-30-2010, 07:02 PM   #16
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Use care with using air to blow the lines empty. Be sure to take the output line off the water pump to prevent pump damage. Talking from experience here!
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Old 10-30-2010, 07:19 PM   #17
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Thumbs up H/W shutoff

Thanks to HD4MK.
I was helping my buddy winterize his newly acquired (used) class c. We couldn't find a shutoff for the tank when I recalled reading his post on the shutoff near the draws under the sink. There it was. thanks pal.
My friend's previous owner said he never put anti-freeze in any lines except the drains. Just blew it out. He didn't even know about the h/w shutoff.

I just drained out all of the water from the tank and then stuck a very thin plastic line into the tank, attached it to the outside compresser we had and started blowing out the water by the same hole until it was empty. We used the hole that houses the metal collector that attracts the "bad stuff" (for lack of a better word) in the water.

Thanks again, glad I found this site. I have learned a lot in the past couple of weeks that I have belonged.

Joe from Ct.
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Old 10-30-2010, 09:12 PM   #18
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H/W shutoff

"ANODE" is the word I was looking for???
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Old 10-31-2010, 07:00 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by johnsonjm209 View Post
Thanks to HD4MK.
I was helping my buddy winterize his newly acquired (used) class c. We couldn't find a shutoff for the tank when I recalled reading his post on the shutoff near the draws under the sink. There it was. thanks pal.
My friend's previous owner said he never put anti-freeze in any lines except the drains. Just blew it out. He didn't even know about the h/w shutoff.

I just drained out all of the water from the tank and then stuck a very thin plastic line into the tank, attached it to the outside compresser we had and started blowing out the water by the same hole until it was empty. We used the hole that houses the metal collector that attracts the "bad stuff" (for lack of a better word) in the water.

Thanks again, glad I found this site. I have learned a lot in the past couple of weeks that I have belonged.

Joe from Ct.
Glad to help Joe. The only reason I could find it was the dealer was pretty good with the walk through and their tech actually explained winterizing very well. It surprised me that they sell services like that but were so good at showing you how to do it yourself. The next one we bought was pre-owned (a code word for used) and that dealer wasn't as good but luckily the original owner had all of the paperwork carefully saved and the manual is very good. Thank you Winnebago.
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Old 10-31-2010, 09:10 PM   #20
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Going south would be a good way but buying and installing a water heater bypass valve would be a whole lot less costlier. Once installed using the bypass valve is easier than messing with unhooking the water lines and plugging them, and the one time purchase price is about the same as the cost of 6 gallons of RV antifreeze you'd have to buy each year to winterize it.
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Old 11-02-2010, 06:46 AM   #21
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This is a GREAT post !! We just bought our first fixer-upper (91 tiago on ford chassie). I wish the previous owner knew bout the bounce dryer sheets and moth balls..... The packrats have tore it up in the 5 years in the barn .. but thats why i got it cheap
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Old 11-06-2010, 11:01 AM   #22
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Some day that will be my way to winterize my class "c"....Got to love it..
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Old 11-06-2010, 12:31 PM   #23
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I've always thought the easiest way to winterize is to take it to Florida.
Tried this method last year. Didnt work.
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Old 11-11-2010, 10:14 AM   #24
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Winterization 101

We just bought a preowned 27' class C motorhome this fall and I decided to winterize the unit myself as I have done previously with our tent trailer. I don't have an air compressor and have always used the "pink" RV antifreeze in RV water systems. I see many great suggestions in other posts here, and only have a few recommendations to add. If you don't have a hot water heater bypass, then make one or have one installed. First I drain "all" the water tanks, drain & bypass the HW heater, and open the check valve in the "city" water inlet. Then I pump the pink stuff through the fresh water system by tapping into the inlet side of the water pump. Run "pink" through each hot & cold tap & toilet, enough to fill the drain traps and eliminate any water in the system. A word to the wise is "make sure" the hot water heater is full of water in the spring before you turn the gas on. An empty HW heater will burn out if it's turned on empty. I take all batteries (RV & truck) inside over the winter and use a trickle charger once a month to keep them alive. A winter fuel additive is a good idea too (especially for diesels) as condensation can be a problem in some areas. Another thing I do is tarp the top of the unit over the winter to protect the roof sealant from weathering around the vents and seams. I had to reseal our roof (three coats) as soon as we bought it to seal cracking and peeling to ensure against leaks. This also extends the life of the (plastic & acrylic) roof vents. Removing all food items and everything that will freeze is a must, the previous owners of our unit left a sticky mess in some of our storage areas & cupboards.
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Old 11-11-2010, 01:19 PM   #25
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HW bypass valve?
I do not have a bypass valve that I can find on my hotwater tank (that I can find?). I did notice that there are two shutoff valves though. One I assume is going into the the HW tank and the other I assume is coming out. I heard that the bottom valve is the cold water in and the upper is hot water out.

Would this work to just shut off the valve for the coldwater in when pumping the antifreeze in?

I also dont have a separate line from the waterpump to pump in the antifreeze so figured I'd jimmy some kind of line/hose. Figured I'd just disconnect the line from the freshwater tank going to teh pump and put an extension peice so it will fit in the bucket? hmmm

Am I waaay off here? thx muchly!
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Old 11-12-2010, 09:41 AM   #26
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You have the right idea. Since you already have two valves at the HW heater, all you need to do is install a "T'' fitting in each line and another valve, joining the two lines as a bypass. Just shutting off the inlet valve would not work as "water" would be trapped in the closed line blocking RV antifreeze from "flowing through". If you don't want to add a bypass, allow the "pink" to flow into the HW heater and out the drain valve. Only problem there is there will still be "water" in the "output lines" from the HW heater, so you'll have to make sure you drain this out by opening all your hot water taps. Depending on how your lines are put in, you may still have water trapped in low areas, so I highly recommend using the bypass method. I fabricated a long hose & suitable fitting matching the inlet side of my water pump by using common plumbing materials, like you figured. Then draw directly from the antifreeze container until "pink" flows from all taps and toilet, also filling the traps. I can send you a photo of the adapter if it will help... Let me know how you make out
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Old 11-19-2010, 08:17 PM   #27
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I favor, draining the water heater and water lines, remove the water filter (if equipped) and blowing the water from the lines. Drain the gray and black tanks and leave the gray tank open. Pour RV antifreeze in the P-traps on the sinks and shower and put the TV in the toilet bowl.

This way you do have the issue of clearing the pink stuff to use the unit in the spring.

Ken
We are going to travel out west on thanksgiving day. I'ts getting cold here in Missouri and I have set the thermostat in the rv to about 50 degrees. Do you think that is sufficient to keep the water system from freezing?
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