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Old 10-12-2010, 09:47 AM   #1
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Steps to Winterize C-Class?

Can someone please go through the steps for winterizing a C-Class MH.

I just bought mine at the start of the season. I noticed it does not have a bypass valve on the HW tank? I would put one on but surely there is a way to properly winterize the whole rig without needing it. I assume it has been done properly in the past as it is 12 years old (98 Dutchman)?

My father-inlaw figures I need to fill up the HW tank (6 gallons?) with antifreeze which sounds costly and is surely not needed?

Please help a newby to save a dime haha
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Old 10-12-2010, 11:14 AM   #2
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Thanx for posting this BadBoy. I also just bought a Class C and was about to ask the same question. We do have a bypass valve....
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Old 10-12-2010, 11:58 AM   #3
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Yeah, I couldnt find much on a search of the threads so I thought this just might end up being the "Go-To" Winterizing thread for future searches. Hopin we get some much needed advice!
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Old 10-16-2010, 09:28 PM   #4
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I've always thought the easiest way to winterize is to take it to Florida.
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Old 10-18-2010, 09:30 AM   #5
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Easiest way I know.
Drain the holding tank..should be an easy thing and obvious.
The WH tank does not need to be filled with RV anti-freeze. It does need emptied, as does all the water lines. Easiest is to purchase a litle plug thing that screws into your pressure water inlet on the outside of the coach. This plug has a air valve much like a tire stem..and is used to "blow" out the water lines using an air compressor. The plug should be around $5.00 at a camper store or even Wal-Mart. Process for blowing out lines is simple and takes only a few minutes, including the WH. Without a bypass for the WH consider it part of the system whole. WH should have either a plastic plug or a winged screw drain valve. Open that valve or remove the plug. Open a HW tap such as the kitchen sink tap, to vent the system..some water may flow/dribble out the exterior WH drain/plug.
Blowing out the lines takes two..one to manage the compressor and one to manage the faucetts. We used several buckets/basins to catch the water blown from the taps so we don't have to again empty our grey water tanks.
Open a single tap.
Apply air via the compressor to the system.
The open tap will spurt out the water and then spend a few monents gurgling..let it purge. Open the NEXT tap before turning the original tap closed..the air pressure from the compressor maybe enough to burst water lines if not...and continue thruout the system to every point of water opening one tap, another, closing the previous...and we do this twice.
Meanwhile, the pressureized lines are also flushing the WH of water..it will stream out then gurgle...let it purge completely.
Your done. We go about and make sure we close all the taps, close the holding tank valve, close the WH valve.
We use RV antifreeze in the drains to fill the traps and a bit in the stool to cover the bottom.
To keep mice and varmints from inside we use Bounce dryer sheets..plenty of them..all about the coach and moth balls in butter dishes. The scent keeps the varmints at bay.
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Old 10-18-2010, 10:26 AM   #6
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Empty the coach of all foodstuffs. Nothing to attract rodents should be stored inside.
Remove all fluids that can freeze. Remember to look everywhere..don't want a burst mouthwash bottle mess to clean up come spring~~
Completely shut down the coach electrics; be sure to disconnect any power user like nightlite or plug in clocks/TV's etc.
Empty the fridge/freezer and leave doors open.
Coach battery should be fully charged if left in, a trickle charger put on if practical; or the coach battery removed and stored properly.
Fuel tanks need Sta-Bil.
Ensure all vents/windows are closed and locked.
Use Bounce dryer sheets everywhere within the coach to repell rodents. Use moth balls in butter dishes wherever you want to keep rodents from nesting..think engine/genset/wiring...
If you (and makes sense to do so) periodically start the engine/genset thruout the storeage period..remember where the mothball stuff is and remove before and replace after cooldown.
Thats about it I think.
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Old 10-18-2010, 11:31 AM   #7
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Any ideas on what to do to keep rodents out if one is allergic to the scent of fabric softener?
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Old 10-19-2010, 06:24 AM   #8
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Any ideas on what to do to keep rodents out if one is allergic to the scent of fabric softener?
Moth balls work well. I put them in small plastic butter dishes. They last last longer than dryer sheets too.
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Old 10-19-2010, 07:32 AM   #9
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If you don't have the original paperwork for your rig take a look around for a water heater bypass valve. Our class C had it hidden behind a galley drawer near the floor. The class A has it in a compartment near it. Then you can bypass it, open the drain and done.

The dump valves for the fresh water can be hidden also. The C was under the bed, A has a pull handle valve in a basement compartment.

You may also have a bypass to have the fresh water pump suck RV antifreeze into the system. Somewhere near the pump you may find a bypass valve, a "T" and a short hose with a screw cap on the end. You stick the hose in a jug of the pink antifreeze and pump until pink comes out any faucet or shower head.

According to how severe your winters are the antifreeze might be the way to go. There is no guarantee compressed air gets all of the water out and an exploded line will be no fun. Where we live I thought it was a must until this year when we can drive it somewhere warm.
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Old 10-19-2010, 12:15 PM   #10
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This is how I winterize without a bypass valve. Been doing it for years.

1. Drain fresh water tank, close valve.
2. Drain hot water heater replace drain plug.
3. Dump and (flush if possible) both black and gray water holding tanks, leave gray water valve open.
4. Screw compressed air adaptor into the fresh water inlet. The adapter is available from Camping World or most RV dealers.
5. Apply compressed air, keeping the pressure at 30 PSI but less than 40 PSI. You may need someone to hold the air hose on the adapter.
6. Open then close each faucet, hot and cold, one valve at a time, allowing the compressed air to force the water out of the line. Don't forget the shower and toilet and outside shower. Open both low point drains and close.
7. Remove the drain plug from the hot water tank and allow the compressed air to blow out the remaining water. Reinstall drain plug.
8. Remove the compressed air source and adapter. Close gray tank valve.
9. Pour a few cups of RV antifreeze down each drain and toilet.
10. You’re done
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Old 10-19-2010, 08:26 PM   #11
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I favor, draining the water heater and water lines, remove the water filter (if equipped) and blowing the water from the lines. Drain the gray and black tanks and leave the gray tank open. Pour RV antifreeze in the P-traps on the sinks and shower and put the TV in the toilet bowl.

This way you do have the issue of clearing the pink stuff to use the unit in the spring.

Ken
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Old 10-20-2010, 12:13 AM   #12
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What? Put the TV in the toilet bowl? What are you talking about here. Why would you put the TV in the toilet bowl? I must be missing something here.
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Old 10-20-2010, 05:12 AM   #13
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Quote:
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I favor, draining the water heater and water lines, remove the water filter (if equipped) and blowing the water from the lines. Drain the gray and black tanks and leave the gray tank open. Pour RV antifreeze in the P-traps on the sinks and shower and put the TV in the toilet bowl.

This way you do have the issue of clearing the pink stuff to use the unit in the spring.

Ken
"clearing the pink stuff" ???... you didn't put any in the lines.
"put the TV in the toilet bowl"???...Is that suppose to be a funny?
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Old 10-21-2010, 12:52 AM   #14
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TxICEMAN: Are you going to explain the TV in the toilet statement you made. My Grandpa one day didn't make sense while talking and we discovered he was suffering a huge stroke. Hospitalized he eventually died. I hope this isn't your case, but it sure didn't make any sense. Not even as a humorous joke.
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