Tarp your RV or not?

[Rosalind Lee]

We live in upstate NY and store our Class C Minnie Winnie outside in the driveway. Every year we cover/wrap the roof in a large tarp. I notice quite a few RV's out there not covered in the winter. Just curious as to why someone wouldn't want to cover?

[mikron]

We have covered all of the class A MH we have and do own. I feel you can't go wrong covering against the weather in any season. We live in Florida and the summer sun and heat are strong. We tent our MH and boat, we can pull or drive out any time without unwraping.

[nwcanopies]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rosalind Lee We live in upstate NY and store our Class C Minnie Winnie outside in the driveway. Every year we cover/wrap the roof in a large tarp. I notice quite a few RV's out there not covered in the winter. Just curious as to why someone wouldn't want to cover?

Absolutely tarp. However, if you are in a wet climate, moisture can get under the tarp and sit between your coach and your tarp. I think it also wise to run a humidifier in the coach as well at least 24 or so hours a week to make sure the Humidity doesn't rot your innards.

Also note that if you tarp it in the summer the tarp can keep moisture in.

I'm no expert, but pretty close. After all, I do this for a living (kinda)

[bdpreece]

I would never consider a tarp. A good quality form fitting rv cover yes; a tarp no. I have seen too many rigs where the tarp was tied down poorly and either the ropes or the tarp chafed the rv causing considerable cosmetic damage. I would only use a tarp if I had a know leak and I was trying to save the insides.

[nwcanopies]

This is how I'd roll.

[Romeo]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rosalind Lee I notice quite a few RV's out there not covered in the winter. Just curious as to why someone wouldn't want to cover?

Covers can cause "more-difficult-to-resolve" problems than leaving an RV uncovered. No matter how tight you tie a cover, it can cause "rubs" to the fiberglass due to billowing in wind. For 5 years I didn't cover our travel trailer. For the first 2 years I didn't cover our 38' motorhome, last year I did, and did get some minor "rubs" from the cover. Also, the cover is a major pain to uncover in the spring. This year I am storing the MH in a garage, but if I store in outside in the future I will probably cover it and deal with buffing out the "rubs" and fighting the uncovering.

BTW...the cover is a breathable Tyvek full cover, not a plastic tarp covering just the roof, as some use.

I believe the rubbing is why many do not cover an RV.

[AZgl1500]

My preference is the canopy for longer term storage or layovers.

Don't take too much time to put them up, but you do have to anchor them down, or they will fly away like an airplane wing.

[bdaball]

Only from my experience, two points.

1. Never run your furnace with a winter cover on. Did that once. I ran the furnace the day I put it on as things were getting put up for the winter. I have a nice VENT hole in the side of my cover now.

2. Make sure if you have thoughts about hitting the road before spring you have a plan to remove the cover. Snow is one thing but frost and ice come up real hard. A good way to tear either the cover or your fabric roof. Everything that is plastic on your roof,(vent covers etc.) are very brittle when frozen and breaks VERY easy.

[Rosalind Lee]

Thanks for all the advice. As far as humidity goes inside other then running a humidifier any suggestions?

[dogpatch]

Actually, if I may add, you would need a "Dehumidifier" if you are looking for removing moisture. A Humidifier would add moisture. I use Dri-Eas crystals to take out the moisture in the winter. One container in the front of the coach and the other at the rear. I also open all the closet and cupboard doors to ensure nothing is is an enclosed space for frost buildup. Mold likes dark places.

[bdpreece]

Now if I was going to tarp this would be the only way. Thats not a tarp though thats a semi portable barn.

Quote:

Originally Posted by nwcanopies This is how I'd roll.

[bdpreece]

The crystals work great but don't put the container on any metal. I put one in a stainless steel sink in a boat one time and it caused a rust ring I never could get out.

Quote:

Originally Posted by dogpatch Actually, if I may add, you would need a "Dehumidifier" if you are looking for removing moisture. A Humidifier would add moisture. I use Dri-Eas crystals to take out the moisture in the winter. One container in the front of the coach and the other at the rear. I also open all the closet and cupboard doors to ensure nothing is is an enclosed space for frost buildup. Mold likes dark places.

[nwcanopies]

Quote:

Originally Posted by dogpatch Actually, if I may add, you would need a "Dehumidifier" if you are looking for removing moisture. A Humidifier would add moisture. I use Dri-Eas crystals to take out the moisture in the winter. One container in the front of the coach and the other at the rear. I also open all the closet and cupboard doors to ensure nothing is is an enclosed space for frost buildup. Mold likes dark places.

Good God! Thanks for correcting me. My kids use a Humidifier in their rooms when sick! The dehumidifier is what I meant. There are other threads on here that talk about addressing humidity in coaches. I read a few the other day and never thought to use what they did to get humidity out of their coaches. Some good ideas and advice here on IRV2.com that have been talked about.

I can't find the thread that talks about Salt and off the shelf products you can use that don't require a power source... but here are a few other threads with like minded questions

Winter storage.

Eva-Dry dehumidifiers

[Ray,IN]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rosalind Lee Thanks for all the advice. As far as humidity goes inside other then running a humidifier any suggestions?

We use D A M P R I D - The Original Non-Electric Moisture Absorber
, have for years, always with good results. Before I built our RV garage I used a cheap farm tarp to cover the RV when unused. I added extra grommets (doubled the existing) and used elastic cords to keep the tarp taut. Each tarp would last about 4 years before sun-rot ruined it. I never once found a rub spot or chaffing from the tarp or cords. The air conditioner holds the tarp away from the roof enough to allow air circulation. If I remember correctly, the tarp, elastic cords, and extra plastic grommets cost me about $80.