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Old 07-30-2016, 05:06 AM   #15
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Thinking about trading in on an Outlaw29H

Trip # 1 underway: a few things to report.

Thor cheaped out on the King Jack antenna and left out the strength meter. Holes for the LED s are there but empty. Ridiculous !

The Level Jacks won't work with the Rapid Camp

The awning toggle is wired backwards and sticks. Now the awning won't come in without help. The defective button, no doubt , killed the motor . One side of the "set it and forget it" won't stay set. Emailed Lippert ( maker of the awning) days ago. No response.

Towed my jeep and had 2 naked bikes in the back. Not bad on power except on the big hills. But towards the end of the journey when pulling away at slow speeds , starting hearing a sound underneath the rear that sounded like metal scraping on the road and the whole rig would shudder for a second or two . Can't visually see any issue .

1 TV remote for 3 TVs. Keep looking for the other 2 haha. Can't believe they would cheap out and give you only 1 remote. Luckily it operates all 3.

The shower , although seems big, is small because the shower door goes straight across instead of bowed like most. Not a big deal but gotta watch the elbows because the door is made of very cheap plastic . Won't last a year , I'm sure.

Thor rep said, simply plug your Tailgater Satellite into the cable outlet and will have Sat signal on all TVs . Didn't work so let them know and no reply back. Will add a diplexer to the line and try myself.

Seems like a lot but still not as much as the first camp with my old FR3.... Oh well, hopefully that's all and hopefully the shudder was just a simple thing.
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Old 07-30-2016, 12:53 PM   #16
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Thor went to the King Jack ($129) after customer complaints about the Winegard BatWing ($112)...too bad, because the BatWing is less expensive and is simply better. Is the Jack fixed or aimable? A signal meter is useless on a fixed antenna
If aimable, since there is already a hole on the roof, you could upgrade to a Winegard Sensar IV.
https://www.amazon.com/Winegard-RVW-.../dp/B003VAZ6OG

Sorry to hear about the awning switch and levelers on the Rapid Camp. I read that Thor pulled the leveler system off the LCI made Rapid Camp for an unknown reason in most recent builds, must be a chronic problem. But too bad, because watching the jacks extend from outside was a GREAT idea.

There should have been 1 remote for each TV out of the factory door...the dealer messed you up.

Can't comment on the metal noise. That's very odd and could be dragging parking or service brakes(?) and suggest it should be a high priority item for check.

For the SAT connection - TMC customer service goofed. SAT Prep is standard on the Class A, but I believe it's not even an option on the Class C.
https://thormotorcoach.com/outlaw/class-c/features/
A dedicated coaxial wire must carry the raw SAT from the antenna, to the reciever. Then, the receiver output connects to the TV distribution system.

For the SAT...If using a diplexer (you need 2), the interior one must be installed BEFORE the TV signal amp.
BTW, It's much easier to just add a second coax, IMHO. And, if you start with a long coax, run from the receiver cabinet, the coiled excess can sit in a bin - ready for you to roll out to the Tailgater (one less connection joint, improves signal strength).

Not too bad for the maiden cruise Thanks for the report.

Safe Outlaw Travels
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Old 07-30-2016, 06:35 PM   #17
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The batwing antenna was useless. The King High Def. is the way to go. Yes, the unit is fixed, but still rotates. Mine has the signal meter and you just aline the antenna to get as many blue lights on as possible.

For the Dish satellite I had to run separate HD cables to the TV's, It would have been nice if Thor would have pre wired but they didn't. I also had to run separate Coax cables from the receivers to the tailgater antenna.

As far as the leveling system, I always MANUAL level from the interior control panel. I have a small level I keep in the coach to check the level, the level on the control panel never is quite right. Even the dealer said don't try to auto level as it just doesn't work right.

Once the coach is level I take the rapid camp remote and check for tree branches etc. and use it to put out the slide and the awning.

Someone had posted some instructions on here from Lippert about resetting the system and reprogramming the level. I've got some instructions in the MH but if I can find the Lippert post I'll repost it.

One thing I wish Thor had included from Ford would be the upgraded Radio system that would have satellite Radio and handsfree phone operation. The radio in my unit doesn't have those features.

I have a pretty good CD collection so I get by with those.
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Old 07-30-2016, 07:51 PM   #18
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We'll have to agree to disagree about the operation of a BatWing v the King Jack...but I will accept that the King Jack has a MUCH better chance of surviving driving under a gas station overhead because it is much lower. We forgot to lower the BatWing - once. It was not damaged, because it made a crazy noise as it scraped the edge of the pump overhead. Never gonna forget again

And BTW...saw this as an interesting mod to the typical Winegard mount...offered by King
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So...the 29h's TV system does not have the standard TMC HDMI distribution box? If not, that' too bad, but an obvious cost cutting measure to keep the price as low as possible.

About the radio...I saw a Thor rep talking about these systems. He said that the factory idea there is to use the "standard" system, because customers that cared or that would be inclined to upgrade are very specific about their desires and would never accept the Ford upgrade. The "standard" radio was best, so the owner can decide to upgrade or not and upgrade to what...makes sense, from that point of view.

Here's the video from Thor Motor Coach about setting "zero point" on the leveling system. Ours works perfect. It has even jacked a tire off the ground if needed (which, I actually wished it would not do:
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Old 07-31-2016, 06:16 AM   #19
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Some great info. The radio in our 2017 doesn't have Satellite Radio but does have Hands free phone. Also if you wanted to add the Satellite radio, I assume you could use the Aux port of USB.

Update

Finally up and running with Sat TV. I pulled the antenna amp lines and added a Diplexer. Then I ran a HDMI cord (25 ft) to the outside TV. Had to fish through fridge vent and outdoor speaker to hide well. Next I picked up a HDMI splitter and connected to my SAT Receiver. So now have A shared SAT signal to both TVs. No SAT to my garage but added an Xbox to that with streaming video .

Also added my Wifi Ranger SKY by feeding in in the SAT /DVD cabinet. Ran 12 volt DC from that antenna Amp to power up the Wifi GO. Finally, electronics are running so having a crappy KING JACK antenna isn't a big issue anymore. Haha


Now for a day off before starting back at tomorrow . Work on trying to figure out the extra side pieces on the bug screen with snaps to nowhere among others. 😳🔫

So far, still 100% better than my FR3.
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Old 07-31-2016, 12:30 PM   #20
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Great update and congrats

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Old 07-31-2016, 08:02 PM   #21
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Don't know if you've had a chance to try out the "On board" fresh water system. If you don't already have one you'll need the fill attachment to fit on your water hose. The valve for your fresh water tank is under the panel on the refrigerator. You have to look in the lower right hand corner to see it, so you may need a flashlight, The drain valve is on the outside of the coach. When winterizing the valve under the frig is closed, also the valve must be open in order to pump any "on board" water.

There are also 3 other valves under the stove. You'll see the water heater bypass and a couple of other valves.

Oh why I'm thinking about it. Never turn on the electric heating element for your water heater if there is no water in the hot water tank. It will burn out immediately if you do. Also Thor explained that when the hot water tank is full turn both the propane and electric on. The electric will keep the water hot and the propane would kick in for rapid heating. If your not plugged into electric (30 amp) then just run the propane. I had a problem when I first got the MH, a wire for the water heater somehow got cut by the slide, and my water heater wouldn't work on electric. Got that all fixed by the dealer.

I always carry fresh water on board (unless freezing conditions), especially when travelling. Makes stoping in Wallmart parking lots a breeze.

Anyway thoroughly ck both city and "on board" water systems.
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Old 08-01-2016, 09:18 AM   #22
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Quote:
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Don't know if you've had a chance to try out the "On board" fresh water system. If you don't already have one you'll need the fill attachment to fit on your water hose. The valve for your fresh water tank is under the panel on the refrigerator. You have to look in the lower right hand corner to see it, so you may need a flashlight, The drain valve is on the outside of the coach. When winterizing the valve under the frig is closed, also the valve must be open in order to pump any "on board" water.



There are also 3 other valves under the stove. You'll see the water heater bypass and a couple of other valves.



Oh why I'm thinking about it. Never turn on the electric heating element for your water heater if there is no water in the hot water tank. It will burn out immediately if you do. Also Thor explained that when the hot water tank is full turn both the propane and electric on. The electric will keep the water hot and the propane would kick in for rapid heating. If your not plugged into electric (30 amp) then just run the propane. I had a problem when I first got the MH, a wire for the water heater somehow got cut by the slide, and my water heater wouldn't work on electric. Got that all fixed by the dealer.



I always carry fresh water on board (unless freezing conditions), especially when travelling. Makes stoping in Wallmart parking lots a breeze.



Anyway thoroughly ck both city and "on board" water systems.

Great stuff. All things I didn't know minus the HWT stuff. Appreciate it. Had these items come with the rig and have no idea what to do with them , is this what you meant , filter goes under fridge? And what is the fitment needed to fill fresh tank? Don't think I have it.


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Old 08-01-2016, 12:10 PM   #23
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I didn't get the filter or the plastic wrench with my MH. I use one of those blue filters on my outside water hose. Not sure what the plastic wrench would be used for, but don't lose it.

Don't know if you've had a chance to use the leveling system. It seems to work really well, just a couple of things to know about it. To use it the ignition must be in the "ON" position (I just leave the coach running) and the parking brake must be engaged. Sometimes when you put the parking brake on you'll hear some beeps coming from the leveling control pad. No problem, it's just telling you it needs to be reset before proceeding. The reset is simple, just push the Enter and Retract buttons at the same time and the system will go to the ready mode. When I first got my MH, nobody seemed to know this information and I spent a weekend not being able to use my leveling system and listening to the thing beep. Finally got the information.

Lippert makes several leveling systems, and each one seems to have different instructions. I didn't receive any instructions with the MH concerning the slide or the leveling system. So I finally located some instructions that actually apply to the system in the 29H but these instructions talk more about trailer leveling then anything else. However I'll post it for you as it is the correct procedure to set your level point to zero.
Some instructions were posted on here already but they are incorrect for our system.

When I level the coach I always use the manual mode, you'll see how to engage that from the control pad. Good Luck with leveling, now let me see if I can find the pdf file on the system
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Old 08-01-2016, 09:39 PM   #24
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I bought a 2016.5 26H model in 2/16. It has many of the upgrades that the 2017 has. My understanding was the improvements were made on builds after 10/1/15. Digital antenna that manually rotates was one of them. Mine had all the options available at the time. My leveling system sucks in auto mode and I was trying to reset it today but couldn't find the proper instructions. I have learned to manually level it very quickly. I use the bathroom door as the level gauge. Move it to a couple positions and see if it stays put. Very reliable.

I love mine so far. A few issues. Spent the last two weeks in it starting in the outer banks dry camping. Then in Southport, NC and then Charleston SC. Returning to OH tomorrow. Previously used for race weekends only.

Modifications: 3 floor chocks that fold away into the floor. I race small super motos and this works well. I can put in three pretty easily and 4 in a pinch. One being in front of the other three. I set the chock distance to load standard 600cc sport bikes and/or my scooter.
I added a couple of black tubs with yellow tops under the garage. A little pain to get to them, but that is where I have been keeping my sewage hose and fitting. Also, oil drain pain, 6 quarts of oil and a filter.150 psi air compressor with 50' retractable hose and 2.5 gallon air tank.
10 gallon fuel storage with pull out drawer and fuel nozzle. This part still needs some improvements.
I installed a 5 gallon water cooler in front right (passenger side) corner of garage just behind the wheel arch. I really like having cold water without buying a million water bottles.
Small aluminum panel in that corner to hold my Honda EU2000 generator. Stays in place perfectly.
Ladder storage above the switches near the main door. It's great to have a place to store this that doesn't rattle or move around.
I lowered the garage storage metal cabinet and added another one very similar to it directly above it.

We mostly sleep in the over cab area with a 2.5" memory foam above the brick hard cushion that came with it. Also slept on the couch bed with the memory foam and it was great. Friends have slept on the garage couches with no complaints.

Mine came with all three remotes for the TV's. I haven't used the TV for anything but streaming from my iphone through HDMI.

Mine has stickers for graphics and color infused shell.

I've been keeping a small soap dispenser at the outside shower and leave that open. Very quick and easy to wash my hands after doing anything with the sewage.

Areas that I wish were better:
More ground clearance.
The 13.5k BTU main A/C was a little under powered in this recent 100F heat wave.
Wish they would have pre run HDMI cables to all TV's from the DVD player area.
Bigger basement storage, but they did this on the 2017's. Really wish I would have known this and waited.
Less excess glue on the exterior. My detailer wasn't happy removing all of that before waxing.

Things I want to do:
Install fans in the garage overhead and upgrade the one in the bathroom. I'm hesitant on the bathroom one as to not suck fumes from the toilet.
Auto awning on the rear.
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Old 08-01-2016, 10:19 PM   #25
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Turnone, sounds like you are really getting everything out of the 29h. I love how you're using the toyhauler area! Did Thor add a fuel station in your model or was that something you added? If you have time post some pics of your garage loaded and your mods. Looks like you do a fair amount of boondocking with your unit at the track. Do you like the on board shower? and where do you refill your water tank?
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Old 08-02-2016, 07:00 AM   #26
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Wow if my 2017 has extra basement storage... I'd hate to see earlier versions. Trust me, there's no room for much there. Then again, the only thing I have to compare with is my Class A with huge pass tru storage among many other bins....


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Old 08-02-2016, 10:44 PM   #27
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Turnone, sounds like you are really getting everything out of the 29h. I love how you're using the toyhauler area! Did Thor add a fuel station in your model or was that something you added? If you have time post some pics of your garage loaded and your mods. Looks like you do a fair amount of boondocking with your unit at the track. Do you like the on board shower? and where do you refill your water tank?
I added the 10 gallon tank underneath the garage just in front of the hydraulic unit (driver side rear). Serves as protection for the hydraulic unit too. I open that access panel and reach in to fill it up after removing the cap. It's a 10 gallon black aluminum unit I bought off Amazon. That all works well. The dispensing part isn't so great. My pull out drawer on passenger side just aft of the rear wheels and exhaust. The slide out rails don't do well with the road grime. I don't have a great way for the fuel hose to be held up when not in use and allow the drawer to pull out completely when in use.

Shower is fine with me. Door broke at top of the housing preventing it from self winding. Used it many times since then. It's a little small. I wish it had a small seat as it helps to sit down and shower after big crashes!

As far as refilling my potable water, I just use a regular garden hose and hold it in the fill port for a while until I reach the desired level in the tank. I don't drink or cook with that water so I'm not too worried about the sanitation.

I'll get some pics and upload in the next week or so.

Chris
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Old 08-05-2016, 11:58 AM   #28
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Finally figured out where the filter goes and what the wrench is for. The total coach filtration system is located way under the sink (other side of the city water inlet) and although a great 2017 upgrade, I have no idea how to get to it properly to change the filter.

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