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Old 01-09-2019, 01:39 PM   #15
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Hmmm... I can see the possibility of real issues when it comes time for using the A/C's.... May need to swap in some "Soft Start " capacitors...
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Old 01-09-2019, 08:04 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cinders1 View Post
So our ‘virgin overnight’ was in Kanab, UT last weekend. We had played around with all the RV appliances, etc., several times, but had not slept in the coach (2018 Thor, Four Winds, 24’). Well it was a cluster. Our hot water, heater and fridge could not be on the camps electric without blowing a fuse. Went through 3 and by then the local stores were closed. Used a space heater and it was bearable. Next day, we got more fuses (hubby THOUGHT he had multiples of ALL but missed the 7.5). Anyway, found out that we can’t have heat, hot water AND fridge on 30 amp. We moved the hot water to propane and all worked. Called a Thor dealer and service said that’s the way it works - can’t have everything g on 30amps. “You have to pick and choose.” So my question is, if we’re ever in a 50 amp locale, would we still need the propane? Anybody else ever have this issue?

I'm not gonna weigh in on the whizzing contest over 120 / 420 / 360 and all that stuff..
Did you try all that stuff on generator? Did you still have a problem?
I am not sure where your problem with blowing that fuse lies. Your heat is gas heat with a 12 volt blower, and you already knows that your water goes both ways and it looks like you have the Norcold fridge. That shouldn't be an issue for the fuses. Regardless of having a 30 or 50 Amp site, that shouldn't affect this.

The problem I have is not being able to see exactly what is going on and knowing how it is set up, but if I understand correctly on yours 12 volt only controls the circuit boards for the water heater and fridge and the fan for heat, and if you are blowing fuses, it is the 12 volt side of your coach so being on 30, 50, or 100 wouldn't matter and we don't know what fuse is blowing as you mentioned the 7.5 being forgotten but not the one that is blowing.
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Old 01-09-2019, 10:05 PM   #17
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Wow! A lot of great info here! We do have 30AMP and we have an adapter if we get a 50 AMP site. The fuse was a 7.5 and in the ‘appliance’ slot. Not all electric was out. Outlets worked, thus the space heater that saved the day. Had no idea that 30AMP wouldn’t run it all, but your explanations make sense. Propane for the water heater the next day was the solution. Toasty warm when we finally changed the fuse and eliminated all the items on electric. Thanks to all!!!!
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Old 01-09-2019, 11:42 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cinders1 View Post
So our ‘virgin overnight’ was in Kanab, UT last weekend. We had played around with all the RV appliances, etc., several times, but had not slept in the coach (2018 Thor, Four Winds, 24’). Well it was a cluster. Our hot water, heater and fridge could not be on the camps electric without blowing a fuse. Went through 3 and by then the local stores were closed. Used a space heater and it was bearable. Next day, we got more fuses (hubby THOUGHT he had multiples of ALL but missed the 7.5). Anyway, found out that we can’t have heat, hot water AND fridge on 30 amp. We moved the hot water to propane and all worked. Called a Thor dealer and service said that’s the way it works - can’t have everything g on 30amps. “You have to pick and choose.” So my question is, if we’re ever in a 50 amp locale, would we still need the propane? Anybody else ever have this issue?
I think the Thor dealer you called is wrong. Those are basic everyday appliances and you should be able to run em at the same time.

From what you've stated, I don't believe the 30 amp 120 volt circuit is the problem. I believe there's something going on with the 7.5 amp 12 volt circuit.
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Old 01-09-2019, 11:46 PM   #19
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Mine actually draws more than yours and I don't have much of a problem except when SWMBO wants to dry her hair or use the microwave while the A/C is running. If we were going to keep it much longer, I was going to add an outlet in the bathroom and maybe one for the microwave that I could plug into a 20A socket with the 30A cord. It's harder to use the hair dryer and microwave at the same time. 30A will run everything that you had on without any problem. The fuse that you replaced was on the 12 volt side of the coach and had no bearing on the 30A AC side, as they are totally different. Easy way to remember is 12 volt has fuses (for the most part) and AC has breakers (always).


Also, that space heater that you plugged in uses way more power than anything else you had running at the time. I run a 1500 watt heater and it is the same as the A/C, but most of the time it doesn't trip out when using the microwave.
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Old 01-10-2019, 11:36 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post
Yes you have a 30A power cord....just one HOT....3600W total

But you mention blowing a FUSE and needing more (went thru 3 fuses) and had to get more???

Used space heater ??

SO your issue is NOT 120V AC usage (not tripping circuit breaker) BUT is a 12V DC issue (blowing fuse)....which sounds like Furnace Fuse (has to use space heater)

Fridge DC Source would be on separate Fuse
Water Heater DC Source would be on separate Fuse
Furnace DC Source would be on separate Fuse

Depending on BRAND/MODEL ---furnace DC Fuse should be 10A

So which FUSE is blowing?
Our rig has 30 amp service and we can run on 110V, the fridge, the hot water heater, and the furnace at the same time. So I was thinking along the lines of Old_Biscuit.

But I am a bit perplexed.

Our furnace (and I think all RV furnaces) is exclusively a 12V operational system.

I always assumed the hot water heater and fridge will operate exclusively on 110V when plugged into shore power, even if no battery was present. If that is true, I am confused why you are blowing 12V fuses. I never tried running the hot water heater and fridge while plugged into shore power when all batteries are disconnected. If they don't work, then that would support Old_Biscuit's theory.
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Old 01-10-2019, 02:13 PM   #21
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Our rig has 30 amp service and we can run on 110V, the fridge, the hot water heater, and the furnace at the same time. So I was thinking along the lines of Old_Biscuit.

But I am a bit perplexed.

Our furnace (and I think all RV furnaces) is exclusively a 12V operational system.

I always assumed the hot water heater and fridge will operate exclusively on 110V when plugged into shore power, even if no battery was present. If that is true, I am confused why you are blowing 12V fuses. I never tried running the hot water heater and fridge while plugged into shore power when all batteries are disconnected. If they don't work, then that would support Old_Biscuit's theory.

Furnace is 12V DC and propane
Fridge needs 12V DC for controls, display, circuit board ---can't operate electric element w/o DC
Water heater???
If Atwood...needs 12V DC for both electric & propane
If Suburban....can run electric element w/o DC


The DC can be from battery OR from converter when plugged into AC Power Source



7.5A is a FUSE....that is 12V DC
So regardless of AC source Power Amp *30/50----DC fuse blowing is NOT an AC issue.
It is a DC issue which needs to be repeated/identified and fixed. OR keep some 7.5A Fuses handy
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Old 01-10-2019, 07:01 PM   #22
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50a vs 30/20

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Originally Posted by twinboat View Post
Basically, 50 amp service is 50 and 50 amps. Not 30 and 20 amps.

This*50-amp*service*has 4 wires with two 120-volt HOT feeds.*It is a*misconception*that this 50-amp RV service is something special.This service is a STANDARD 120/240 50-amp 3 pole with 4 prongs used for*numerousapplications.*

The 50-amp 120/240-volt 3 pole 4
(from what I read): Some RVs w/ GEN larger than 4000 (maybe 5500-6,000-watt? and with a 2nd AirCond unit) have the 30a and 20a breaker on the two legs of AC Power? The 30a feeds normal panel and the 2nd breaker @20a ONLY feeds the 2nd Air unit
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Old 01-10-2019, 08:36 PM   #23
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I know I'll get a lot of flack over this but """BASICALLY""" 50 amp service, although in reality, is 240 volts, is in reality, 2 different circuits. One is 30 amps and the other is 20 amps.
LOL flack = correcting your published errors. Interesting.
I liked your """BASICALLY""".

Here, """COMPLETELY""" what you wrote regarding amperage was incorrect.
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Old 01-10-2019, 08:54 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cinders1 View Post
Wow! A lot of great info here! We do have 30AMP and we have an adapter if we get a 50 AMP site. The fuse was a 7.5 and in the ‘appliance’ slot. Not all electric was out. Outlets worked, thus the space heater that saved the day. Had no idea that 30AMP wouldn’t run it all, but your explanations make sense. Propane for the water heater the next day was the solution. Toasty warm when we finally changed the fuse and eliminated all the items on electric. Thanks to all!!!!
**No generator allowed - quiet time
You don't have a 30 Amp AC problem.

You are blowing the DC appliance fuse (7.5 Amp)

Running your water heater does not reduce this DC load.
Running your Fridge on GAS does not reduce this load.
Only not running your furnace will reduce the load as the DC fan will not be running.
The furnace also supplies 12 VDC power to your thermostat. It should not be on the same fused circuit as the control power for your fridge and water heater.
Thor wired your coach incorrectly; you should have absolutely no problem running all three of those appliances together either on Shore Power or not.

Take your coach to a dealer who has someone with brain cells in their service department and they should be able to fix it in about an hour.

And ignore the discussion on 50 Amp service as it doesn't apply to you.

Post #2 was wrong and post #22 only applies to some generators in a 50 Amp coach.
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Old 01-11-2019, 01:40 AM   #25
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Hmmm... I have never had any of these issues and have never given them any thought. I have tripped a breaker when running microwave and electric skillet but easily mitigated. I put the fridge on auto and everything else uses gas.
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Old 01-11-2019, 04:50 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post
Yes you have a 30A power cord....just one HOT....3600W total


But you mention blowing a FUSE and needing more (went thru 3 fuses) and had to get more???


Used space heater ??


SO your issue is NOT 120V AC usage (not tripping circuit breaker) BUT is a 12V DC issue (blowing fuse)....which sounds like Furnace Fuse (has to use space heater)


Fridge DC Source would be on separate Fuse
Water Heater DC Source would be on separate Fuse
Furnace DC Source would be on separate Fuse


Depending on BRAND/MODEL ---furnace DC Fuse should be 10A


So which FUSE is blowing?
I guess mine must have been wired on a Sunday Night shift. My 12-volt circuit is wired Fridge, furnace and range hood all on the same 12-volt fuse. I believe the WH also but didn't check that one while I was working on the Furnace.
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