Towing

[IMPULSE DRIVEN]

Will my Itasca Winnebago be able to tow something like a Jeep Wrangler?

[RickO]

We really need to know about your rig to give you a good answer. Itasca makes a wide range of coaches. You can get your GVWR and CGVWR from placques inside your rig. That, and the weight of the Wrangler will get your answer.

Best of luck...

Rick

[CbtEngr]

Me again FLIGHTSIMMER before we bought our Impulse we bought a 2011 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited (the 4 door). You will be able to tow 5000 lbs. with yours and your GCVW can't exceed 20000lbs.

The Wranglers come in around 3800-4200 depending on your choice of model and options installed. So you should be fine. Remember though when towing your MPG could go as low as 5 depending on how heavy your foot is also Motorhome magazine has Digney towing guides for the last 5-6 years, if you wanted to see what all is available. Don't forget you will have to get all the equipment to actually tow the vehicle. You will have to decided if you are going to tow 4 down or with a dolly. That will determine what other equipment you will need.

The 2011 Jeep Wranger will tow 4 door with out any modifications to the vehicle except your choice of braking system, lights, baseplate, etc.

If you like I can PM you what equipment I bought for ours and what I researched. There are lots of options and I just went through the majority of them in the last 2-3 months.

Congrats again and good luck!!! Happy Memories!

[IMPULSE DRIVEN]

Originally Posted by CbtEngr

Me again FLIGHTSIMMER before we bought our Impulse we bought a 2011 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited (the 4 door). You will be able to tow 5000 lbs. with yours and your GCVW can't exceed 20000lbs.

The Wranglers come in around 3800-4200 depending on your choice of model and options installed. So you should be fine. Remember though when towing your MPG could go as low as 5 depending on how heavy your foot is also Motorhome magazine has Digney towing guides for the last 5-6 years, if you wanted to see what all is available. Don't forget you will have to get all the equipment to actually tow the vehicle. You will have to decided if you are going to tow 4 down or with a dolly. That will determine what other equipment you will need.

The 2011 Jeep Wranger will tow 4 door with out any modifications to the vehicle except your choice of braking system, lights, baseplate, etc.

If you like I can PM you what equipment I bought for ours and what I researched. There are lots of options and I just went through the majority of them in the last 2-3 months.

Congrats again and good luck!!! Happy Memories!

I don't have the Wrangler yet but I am not sure what to buy as my wife's Jetta is getting long in in the tooth and one day will be replaced, but we want something that can be towed behind the RV.

[CbtEngr]

As I said you will want to check out Motorhome's towing guides to see what your options are. At this link Dinghy Towing and Dinghy Guide they have links from 2002 - 2010 downloadable guides (top right side of the above page).

[bluepill]

Originally Posted by FLIGHTSIMMER

Will my Itasca Winnebago be able to tow something like a Jeep Wrangler?

Are you aware that Consumer Reports lists the Wrangler as below average in reliability and crash-worthiness?

Just sayin'

[IMPULSE DRIVEN]

Originally Posted by bluepill

Are you aware that Consumer Reports lists the Wrangler as below average in reliability and crash-worthiness?

Just sayin'

yeah that is what scares me.

[04Sundancer]

I have a 2004 30' Class C Itasca with V10 and it pulls my 2 door 2010
Wrangler just fine here in CO. BTW, my research says you do not
need to tow it with the key on. Somewhere around 2009 the steering
wheel no longer locks. The owners manual apparently lies. However,
you should verify that for yourself. I was very pleased to be able
to skip disconnecting the battery like the owners manual asserts.

BTW, just enjoy your Wrangler, the heck with Consumer Reports.
CR also complains about the ride of a Wrangler .. get serious, its
a real Jeep for cryin out loud.

Allan
2004 Itasca Sundancer
2010 Wrangler (and loving it!)

[IMPULSE DRIVEN]

Originally Posted by 04Sundancer

I have a 2004 30' Class C Itasca with V10 and it pulls my 2 door 2010
Wrangler just fine here in CO. BTW, my research says you do not
need to tow it with the key on. Somewhere around 2009 the steering
wheel no longer locks. The owners manual apparently lies. However,
you should verify that for yourself. I was very pleased to be able
to skip disconnecting the battery like the owners manual asserts.

BTW, just enjoy your Wrangler, the heck with Consumer Reports.
CR also complains about the ride of a Wrangler .. get serious, its
a real Jeep for cryin out loud.

Allan
2004 Itasca Sundancer
2010 Wrangler (and loving it!)

I had an old XJ and I do need something tow able that is 4000LBS or under that can go off road.

[HikerRob]

Hello, CbtEngr,
Two weeks ago I bought a 2011 Itasca Impulse 31N. I have a 2004 Nissan Xterra (about 4,000 lbs) to which I’ve already added a Blue Ox base plate. I have the Ready Brake Elite in hand, ready to be installed in a couple of days. But I discovered I’ll need a 4" hi-low adapter in the riser position on the back of the Impulse (16½" from center of receiver to ground) to match the base plate height (21" from center of clevis pin holes to ground) to achieve a level tow bar.
But I’m getting nervous. My Itasca 2011 Operator's Manual, p. 12-3, says "We do not recommend the usage of a "surge-style" braking device. The usage of a surge brake (especially when coupled with a hitch ball located outside our recommended limits (8" max horizontally from hitch pin to ball and 4" maximum drop)) places excessive stress on the hitch. This abuse of the ball mount and the hitch may cause premature hitch assembly failure."
Should I not use a Ready Break surge brake because of the above statement, and because of the 4" hi-low adapter in the riser position? I’m afraid the Xterra will put too much torque stress on the receiver bar.
Can you comment, please? What has been your experience with the Ready Brake? Do you use a hi-low riser? Have you pulled up and down hills or mountains, or just on the level? Is there anything else I need to know? Should I abandon my plans for the Ready Brake and go with a modulated system as recommended by Itasca?
Thank you for your help,
HikerRob

[Bjsrv]

Look under your rig at the frame where the hitch is welded on. You will see why the Mfg sets the limits they do. On my rig I boxed the extended frame which made me feel much more comfortable about putting any stress on the stock hitch. I think you may have a 350 lb limit on tongue weight which really isn't much especially if you put on added leverage of a drop hitch.

[Mekanic]

Originally Posted by bluepill

Are you aware that Consumer Reports lists the Wrangler as below average in reliability and crash-worthiness?

Just sayin'

I don't trust what consumer Reports say on bit.
My 99 Wranglers is the most reliable vehicle i have ever had. I bought it in 05 and it had 82K miles on it then. 80K later is is just great. In that time it has needed 1 heater fan switch and 1 wheel bearing unit. ($150 total).
I am so glad I traded in that 97 Honda CRV on it.
To Me Consumer Reports is too rough to sell for good toilet paper.
So I use it for a camp fire starter.

[CbtEngr]

Originally Posted by HikerRob

Hello, CbtEngr,
Two weeks ago I bought a 2011 Itasca Impulse 31N. I have a 2004 Nissan Xterra (about 4,000 lbs) to which I’ve already added a Blue Ox base plate. I have the Ready Brake Elite in hand, ready to be installed in a couple of days. But I discovered I’ll need a 4" hi-low adapter in the riser position on the back of the Impulse (16½" from center of receiver to ground) to match the base plate height (21" from center of clevis pin holes to ground) to achieve a level tow bar.
But I’m getting nervous. My Itasca 2011 Operator's Manual, p. 12-3, says "We do not recommend the usage of a "surge-style" braking device. The usage of a surge brake (especially when coupled with a hitch ball located outside our recommended limits (8" max horizontally from hitch pin to ball and 4" maximum drop)) places excessive stress on the hitch. This abuse of the ball mount and the hitch may cause premature hitch assembly failure."
Should I not use a Ready Break surge brake because of the above statement, and because of the 4" hi-low adapter in the riser position? I’m afraid the Xterra will put too much torque stress on the receiver bar.
Can you comment, please? What has been your experience with the Ready Brake? Do you use a hi-low riser? Have you pulled up and down hills or mountains, or just on the level? Is there anything else I need to know? Should I abandon my plans for the Ready Brake and go with a modulated system as recommended by Itasca?
Thank you for your help,
HikerRob

Hey,
I would certainly try to stay within the limits that Istasca stated. In my situation, the Wrangler is 18" center of baseplate pins to the ground and on my 31CP it's 20"-21". I was planning on lifting my Jeep a little bit (DIY leveling kit is $127) So I should be within an inch of level which Ready Brake recommends.

I can see where if you are 4" above/below level it would put extra strain on the hitch assembly. The best advice I can give is try to do more research about Ready Brake and the model of Itasca you have. I do believe your 31N is about 1 - 1 1/2' longer than mine.
Since we just took delivery of our motorhome Memorial Day weekend we've only had it out once and we didn't tow the Jeep. I did do a "test tow" which encompassed 2 fairly large hills, and it did fine. I doubt I would have issues anyway on just the first trip. I will be keeping an eye on the hitch assembly looking for any stress cracks though. I don't use a hi-low receiver.

Wish I could be of more help but I'm still a newbee with Motorhomes.

[HikerRob]

Bjsrv,
The hitch isn't welded on, it is bolted with three bolts on each side holding an "L" plate to the inside of the coach's "C" frame rails. And yes, it has a 350# tongue weight limit. What do you mean when you say you "boxed" the extended frame? Did you weld a piece along the "C" channel frame to make it an "O" frame?
Thanks,
Hiker Rob