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Old 04-17-2014, 06:46 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by CbtEngr View Post
We just use those little camping tanks you get at Walmart for like 6 bucks for 2. Unless I'm missing something and you all are talking about extended stays or something.

Worthington Pro Grade 16.4 oz Propane Cylinder, 2pk: Camping : Walmart.com
Lots of the bigger BBQs require a full size tank.
Should be carried in a vented, unheated area. Mine is in the toad, off loaded any time we unhook.
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Old 04-18-2014, 08:14 AM   #30
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That 18 gallon tank filled to 80% capacity equals 14.4 gallons, which is 61 pounds of propane. That 20 pound tank filled to 80% capacity equals 16 pounds of propane which is 3.77 gallons of propane. Unless my math is wrong, that 80% filled motor home tank, has the same amount of propane as over 16 of those 20 pound tanks - that's a lot of propane.
I've never had an issue with propane useage in a motor home, while a 20# propane tank for my grill at home in Florida, where it's used 12 months a year, seems to last forever.
The 18 gallons in the brochures, is the usable amount of LP. The manchester tank is a 22.+ tank. That works out to 18 gallons usable.
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Old 04-19-2014, 06:18 AM   #31
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My propane capacity keeps getting better and better !!! It started as a area of large concern for me, now its a afterthought !!!
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Old 04-19-2014, 06:30 AM   #32
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l.p.

Took my Class c to propane gas company and they put in a aux. line off my main tank. Ran to back ,uses a quick disconnect. They made a 20 foot hose so the grill is away from m.h. Can also use line to run propane lanterns, etc. Do not have to carry tank this way. Hope this gives you another option.
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Old 04-22-2014, 11:27 AM   #33
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Lots of the bigger BBQs require a full size tank.
Should be carried in a vented, unheated area. Mine is in the toad, off loaded any time we unhook.
The Weber Q120 will run off the little disposible tanks. Maybe I'll just go with that; I can keep the tanks in the coach itself so they get adequate ventilation and it won't bake back there. Definitely more expensive, but I'm only camping 20-30 days a year. Its not like its a huge back breaker.
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Old 04-22-2014, 09:53 PM   #34
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As an old fart, I didn't feel like horsing a 20-lb capacity propane tank about for a grill that maybe uses 0.5 lb/hour, that we use primarily for grilling steaks and lamb chops. 20 pounds would probably last three years!

I found a "squatty" 10-lb tank at a local "Do-it Best" store that is the same base diameter as the typical 20-pounder. I bought the CW "base stabilizer ring" and bolted it to the floor in one of the cargo bays. I put in a coulpe of bungee cord hooks to hold the top of the cylinder, but it fits so snugly in the ring, I haven't bothered to use them.

I keep the tank about half full, so it's easy to lift in and out. It can be difficult, sometimes, to convince the kid at the hardware store who is filling the tank that I don't want it full, but I can usually explain why.
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Old 04-30-2014, 09:56 AM   #35
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I would like to jump in here on this subject as I see a lot of misinformation being thrown around. As someone who has been filling propane tanks for about 14 years at the small service station I work at, a 20# tank holds 20# of propane. Likewise, a 30 holds 30, a 40 holds 40 and a 100 holds 100. (Propane weighs slightly over 4# per gallon, not the 3# to 7 or 8#, I have seen mentioned). This idea that the tank should not be filled beyond 80% capacity, while correct, probably came about with the older, non OPD/dip tube equipped tanks, where it would be very easy to overfill the tank if one is not paying attention to what they are doing. They didn't have the OPD to shut off the flow when the tank reached full, thus preventing an inadvertent overfill. The current valves have a float attached them that rises with the liquid propane level and shuts it off, not unlike the valve in your toilet tank. They also have a dip tube that sticks down inside of the tank and is attached to the bleeder screw, that should be opened anytime the tank is being filled. When the liquid level in the tank reaches this tube, it is forced up it and vents through the bleeder screw, thus signaling the tank is full, in case the OPD valve didn't shut off. At this point, there is still an open area above the liquid level in the tank to allow for expansion and gassing off of the liquid. Next time you are in a hardware store look at the replacement OPD valves and you will see how they are constructed.

The smaller tanks, up through the 40# are under a different set of rules and governing body than the larger tanks, such as the 100# tanks, which is why you don't see OPD's on the 100# tanks. Also, certain tanks, like for forklifts and other horizontally mounted tanks (even those used in some campers) while they may be filled standing upright, don't have the OPD.

You will find that the permanently mounted tanks in motor homes, usually have an OPD and bleeder valve installed, even the older models that were built before this became the standard for all tanks. You may also see a sticker attached near the bleeder screw that says, in effect, "when liquid appears, stop filling the tank".
If you are having your tanks filled at a place that only fills them to 80% capacity, i.e., 16# in a 20# tank, you are getting ripped off. When these tanks are filled correctly, you will have a full 20# and still have that "20%" expansion area above the liquid. Note also, that all of the tank valves are equipped with a safety valve that will open and allow propane to vent in case of internal tank pressure exceeding a set amount, very similar to the safety valve mounted on water heaters.

Note also, that any of the tanks you get at the propane exchange places are normally only being filled to 15# (used to be 17#). You may be paying for 20# but only getting 3/4 of that. Note that the net weight of the propane is listed as 15#, that's what you just bought. Search for online comments/complaints about this, quite a few out there.

The use of the OPD valves became mandatory as of April 1, 2002.

For more info, do a quick search on line, it will yield a lot more on this subject. I would only trust comments from propane sources, however, such as:

Propane Cylinder and LPG Bottle Information
Propane Bottle and LP Gas Cylinder Filling
Overfill Protection Devices for propane tanks now the law
OPD - Overfilling Protection Device - OK LP Gas Research, Marketing and Safety Commission
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Old 04-30-2014, 10:20 AM   #36
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[QUOTE=2kGeorgieBoy;2031334]I would like to jump in here on this subject as I see a lot of misinformation being thrown around. As someone who has been filling propane tanks for about 14 years at the small service station I work at, a 20# tank holds 20# of propane. Likewise, a 30 holds 30, a 40 holds 40 and a 100 holds 100.


GeorgieBoy, welcome to iRV2.
I started pumping propane in 1962, and doing propane conversions on vehicles in 1984. So I understand all you have said.
Part of the confusion, here comes from the way they refer to the bottles and tanks in the USA, where they fill & charge, by volume .
The bottles 20# = 5 gallons 30# = 7 etc.
Some places in the USA won't fill a bottle that doesn't have a spit valve.
So you have to reference all replies and statements about propane, tank size in particular, to the members location , Canada or USA.
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Old 05-02-2014, 10:00 AM   #37
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The little disposable tanks work okay with the Q and that's what we generally use. To answer your question, we hauled a full size BBQ tank all round Baja (mostly off road) in our former truck camper. Didn't have one of them thar fancy CW tank bases, but simply used a used dirtbike tire as the base. Just left it in the shower along with a few soft items so it didn't bounce around. A whole lot of off-road miles, including getting a little airborne once, and not a single issue during two weeks of boondocking. Thing is, we never needed the extra tank. Unless you are running a genny off your propane, your factory tank will go a long, long way. We also had an adapter setup for the Q also, but it just never seemed to work as well as the little disposable tanks for some reason.
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Old 05-04-2014, 06:39 AM   #38
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I carry my extra tank in a milk crate, inside the the coach while we're under way. It fits beside the bed perfectly when the slide is in. Been doing this for years. A good tank isn't going to leak unless you don't snug the valve. You will smell even the SLIGHTEST "leak" or the LP detector will pick it up in plenty of time to get it out of the coach before there's any problems.

Keep in mind, I only carry it inside while under way, I don't store it in there.
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Old 05-04-2014, 05:34 PM   #39
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I was also thinking of storing it in the coach. I have a milkcrate, and the little 5 pound guy fits in there nicely. I'll figure out a place to wedge it, maybe I'll even put it in the shower as somebody else mentioned.

Good stuff - I'll run through my current 8 pack of disposables and go forth as you guys suggest. Sometimes the simple answer is the best one.
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Old 05-06-2014, 08:58 AM   #40
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If it makes you feel any better my Fleetwood came with an 11 Gallon external tank and after 3 camping trips running the fridge full time, furnace at night, and cooking for a weekend each trip I am still at 3/4 tank full.

When I used the pop up I never used more than 1/2 a 5 Gallon tank doing the same above and that was on a 3 day trip through CO and running the furnace all the time.

Does the Winnie not come with an external tank already mounted? If it does I would suggest taking it out a few times before buying any extra tanks and wasting space/money on something you will probably never need.
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Old 05-06-2014, 09:25 AM   #41
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I have the 18 gallon propane tank that came with the coach. But I discovered I would spend around $100 in fittings and hoses, and than I'd also have to take the regulator off the Q120 since the coach tank is also regulated.

Since it was getting pricey and somewhat complicated I just punted and went with something more mundane.
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Old 05-07-2014, 09:36 AM   #42
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How to power the Webber, Coleman, Thermous, Char-Broil, Whatever, when you motor home.

1: Extend-a-stay or Stay-a-while adapters, let you use your main tank to power grill.. NOTE some of the Tim Taylor models (MORE HEAT) may not be able to suck gas out of the named adapters fast enough.. (Fittings too small). (Tim Taylor, played by Tim Allen, On TV show Home Improvement, he now plays Mike Baxter (KA0XTT) on Last mam Standing.. I have a signed QSL card from him around here.. Even his daughter is getting her ham license I'm told, His boss and the store whipping boy are both licensed as well).

Option 2: On my coach the seals on the basement compartments.. basically don not seal that well, and can be easily removed
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