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Old 10-05-2019, 12:31 PM   #15
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Yes, you can do it just as you suggested.

You don't need to turn off the inverter, it will just sit there doing nothing, while running the generator, but you will need to switch the converter on or off.

Many folks do it that way.
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Old 10-08-2019, 03:59 PM   #16
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I kind of skimmed thru these responses and there are a couple different scenarios and setups being talked about..

Since my older RV had no auto transfer switch, etc.. I designed my own for my desires..

30Amp, Onan 4000...60amp conveter/charger you manualy plug the cord into the generator socket..
I have added a 2000 watt converter.. that powers the entire coach... AC works but kills 220 AH in an hour or so in testing..

My replacement Transfer switch is Inverter Priority with an auxilary relay that kills the circuit to the converter to avoid loses of battery..

WHY inverter Priority.. 80% of my use is NO shore power.. I arive at on sites late friday 7pm or later.. quiet time is 10pm..
I fire up the onan, with inverter off or my Honda hooked to the shore cord..
Batterys stay 100% up.. Fridge on AC or Gas , no mater..

10pm, while I am inside chilling, I flip inverter on, and kill onan.. no going outside..
TV stays on, I normally let fridge go to gas.. use the lights, microwave for some popcorn etc.. LOL
Get up at 6 or 7am, run the coffee, then fire up genny and off the inverter..

Batteries charge etc,, do it again ..

So my Transfer with has 3 inputs,, 95% of what is sold is 2 inputs.. shore or genny and then some inverter installs assume all shore or genny is off and you power certain circuits only..

I have less than 500 invested in switching wiring and a pure sine wave inverter..

Now some RV main power panels use the transfer switch with 2 inputs and an Inverter with its own internal transfer switch.. these inverters are pricey, heavy duty and many even have battery charge all built in..those make a sweet set up...
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Old 10-08-2019, 11:00 PM   #17
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Few possibilities: 1) Batteries take a surface charge when charging, which, when first turned off, can give a false HIGH voltage, and can take 30+minutes to drop to accurate reading. 2) If that is NOT your issue, it is possible Breaker contacts are welded shut? Unplug, pull panel cover and remove breaker from panel, then plug back in and read charging/ battery voltage; 3) Converter maybe wired to another breaker, but you said same symptom w/ MAIN turned OFF?; 4) Converter wired to BYPASS MAIN (NOT RECOMMENDED, TOO MANY THINGS CAN GO BAD/ GO UP IN SMOKE).. if this is true, you need to correct the wiring ASAP.
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Old 10-09-2019, 03:05 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by sibe View Post
I kind of skimmed thru these responses and there are a couple different scenarios and setups being talked about..

Since my older RV had no auto transfer switch, etc.. I designed my own for my desires..

30Amp, Onan 4000...60amp conveter/charger you manualy plug the cord into the generator socket..
I have added a 2000 watt converter.. that powers the entire coach... AC works but kills 220 AH in an hour or so in testing..

My replacement Transfer switch is Inverter Priority with an auxilary relay that kills the circuit to the converter to avoid loses of battery..

WHY inverter Priority.. 80% of my use is NO shore power.. I arive at on sites late friday 7pm or later.. quiet time is 10pm..
I fire up the onan, with inverter off or my Honda hooked to the shore cord..
Batterys stay 100% up.. Fridge on AC or Gas , no mater..

10pm, while I am inside chilling, I flip inverter on, and kill onan.. no going outside..
TV stays on, I normally let fridge go to gas.. use the lights, microwave for some popcorn etc.. LOL
Get up at 6 or 7am, run the coffee, then fire up genny and off the inverter..

Batteries charge etc,, do it again ..

So my Transfer with has 3 inputs,, 95% of what is sold is 2 inputs.. shore or genny and then some inverter installs assume all shore or genny is off and you power certain circuits only..

I have less than 500 invested in switching wiring and a pure sine wave inverter..

Now some RV main power panels use the transfer switch with 2 inputs and an Inverter with its own internal transfer switch.. these inverters are pricey, heavy duty and many even have battery charge all built in..those make a sweet set up...
Thanks for the info. So, i currently have a PD5110010Q transfer switch installed from the factor that incorporates my genny and shore power to the ac panel.

My research into a go power transfer switch shows that i can add their 30 amp switch between the ac panel wire coming from the first transfer switch. This will allow me to tie the inverter directly into the AC panel. The generator gets priority over shore power which gets priority over inverter.

That all sound about right? I guess I could look into inverters with a transfer switch built in, but that confuses me at the moment, although im sure it's the same premise.

Im extremely curious as to if I will still need to turn off the breaker to the battery charger when using the inverter? I doubt the transfer switch is that smart, as I'm guessing power to the AC panel is exactly that, just power...no differentiating.?
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Old 10-09-2019, 05:02 AM   #19
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Hey everyone. I'm new here. My name is EJ and my wife and I just upgraded from a tt to a class c Entegra Odyssey 25r. We love it after one short trip to UNC/Clemson football game. We live in Delaware.

Ive been researching on and off about batteries, inverters, solar..etc, and I feel like Im well informed, but i'm stumped when it comes to knowing if my converter is actually off.

I have a breaker labeled "converter". I switch it off, and while plugged into shore power, my battery still reads 14.3ish. I also turn off the main breaker and my battery still reads the same. It obviously reads 12.6ish when not plugged in. What am I missing?

My ultimate goal is to stop the converter from charging to be able to possibly plug my 30 amp plug into an inverter with battery bank.

Or am i just ignorant, and the converter is actually off, but because it's plugged in, it reads 14.3?

Thank you to all. This forum has been a huge help.
Hi EJ,
First, you should update your profile on the site to tell us a little more about your coach. That will make it easier for people to help. For example, what year is your coach?

Now to your issue. Are you talking about your CONVERTER (changes AC to DC) or you INVERTER (DC to AC). Based on a quick internet search, it doesn't appear the Entegra Odyssey 25r come with or has an option for an inverter so I'll assume you mean the converter.

I don't understand why you would want to turn your CONVERTER off. All a CONVERTER does in power your DC 12V devices from AC shore power / generator. It is also a CONVERTER / CHARGER and thus charges the batteries as well.

Plugging your 30A cord into an inverter would not work out well. You'll still need a source of power for the inverter and, if wired correctly, the inverter will pass through AC shore OR generator power. Also, you'd be converting DC to AC with the inverter then AC to DC with the converter / charger. Not a very efficient setup. Get an inverter. A 1000w True Sine Waive unit would be adequate for your coach but a 2000W unit won't be much more and will provide additional capability to allow you to run things like a coffee maker, refrigerator, or microwave off the inverter. Wiring is the hard part of the job so don't skimp on the inverter itself.

If you want to eliminate electrical loads while in storage, use the battery disconnect.

I highly recommend you consider installing an inverter. That will give you AC power for the coach even when operating without shore power or the generator . Typically, a coach with an Inverter will use the inverter to perform the battery charging function. And, with an inverter, there is no reason for a CONVERTER. You could remove it from the coach entirely. The Inverter will keep the batteries charged and your 12V loads will come directly off the battery through a fuse panel. Obviously, installing an inverter will require some new / modified wiring but it is a project well within the capability of a reasonably handy owner or any RV shop.
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Old 10-09-2019, 05:30 AM   #20
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I see some people talk about dedicated circuits and what not. I definately get it, and i would probably just run an extension cord to a power strip behind the tv, but isn't it so much easier to run a heavy duty extension cord to the mh 30amp cord location, and just plug in? All receptacles would work. I have an outside tv and numerous outside receptacles.... .

I didn't have a transfer switch and did exactly what you want to do. I found it way more convenient to have all the outlets powered. If you don't already have a meter/shunt than I would do that at the same time.

I also moved the converter to it's own breaker so that I could turn it off. Even when plugged in I never really needed the converter as the solar seemed to be able to keep up.
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Old 10-09-2019, 05:54 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by EJ_Clemson View Post
Thanks for the ideas.



Edit..... Ok, that inverter breaker actually helped! It allows me to keep the converter on but seems to turn off the charging portion. In hindsight, i guess this is another "duh" moment. My first mistake was reading the breaker panel upside down. Anyway, this solves my first issue. Many more to come im sure.
This sounds to me like you may have an inverter/charger installed already. I would leave all the breakers on unplug from shore power and test the outlets nearest the tv to see if they are still working.
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Old 10-09-2019, 05:58 AM   #22
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Hi EJ,




I don't understand why you would want to turn your CONVERTER off. All a CONVERTER does in power your DC 12V devices from AC shore power / generator. It is also a CONVERTER / CHARGER and thus charges the batteries as well.

Plugging your 30A cord into an inverter would not work out well. You'll still need a source of power for the inverter and, if wired correctly, the inverter will pass through AC shore OR generator power. Also, you'd be converting DC to AC with the inverter then AC to DC with the converter / charger. Not a very efficient setup. Get an inverter. A 1000w True Sine Waive unit would be adequate for your coach but a 2000W unit won't be much more and will provide additional capability to allow you to run things like a coffee maker, refrigerator, or microwave off the inverter. Wiring is the hard part of the job so don't skimp on the inverter itself.



I highly recommend you consider installing an inverter. That will give you AC power for the coach even when operating without shore power or the generator . Typically, a coach with an Inverter will use the inverter to perform the battery charging function. And, with an inverter, there is no reason for a CONVERTER. You could remove it from the coach entirely. The Inverter will keep the batteries charged and your 12V loads will come directly off the battery through a fuse panel. Obviously, installing an inverter will require some new / modified wiring but it is a project well within the capability of a reasonably handy owner or any RV shop.
Although you are calling it an " inverter " in your text, you are talking about a inverter/charger combo unit. That will elemenate the need for a converter/charger.

There are inverters that do not have the charging function, that's what this post is about.

Running the converter/charger, although it will power 12 volt items, will also attempt to charge the batteries the inverter is using.

That's perpetual motion or a cat chasing its tail and doesn't work.
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Old 10-09-2019, 08:47 AM   #23
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This sounds to me like you may have an inverter/charger installed already. I would leave all the breakers on unplug from shore power and test the outlets nearest the tv to see if they are still working.
Trust me, I def don't have an inverter/charger installed. I have the typical converter/charger and to update this thread.....
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I have identified the breaker that shuts off the charger portion of my converter. Instead of plugging my 30 amp shore power cord into my inverter (which I think is perfectly acceptable), I'm now planning to hook up and run the inverter to a transfer switch so i can just hit the remote on, and the inverter will come on. I believe this will also let me go down the road and use receptacles if i wish, and actually take some charge from the running vehicle alternator.

Ultimately i could probably save the cost of adding the second transfer switch and just run a heavy extension cord to the 30 amp shore power compartment and plug the cord in; but i feel the transfer switch makes the install cleaner, safer and probably runs somewhat more efficient.

But my question still remains regarding the inverter hooked up to the transfer switch. Will the charger breaker still need to be turned off when inverter is running? Im guessing yes it does. Id probably have to tie the charger into the transfer switch somehow?? I should prob start a new thread.
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Old 10-09-2019, 10:03 AM   #24
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Trust me, I def don't have an inverter/charger installed. I have the typical converter/charger and to update this thread.....
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I have identified the breaker that shuts off the charger portion of my converter. Instead of plugging my 30 amp shore power cord into my inverter (which I think is perfectly acceptable), I'm now planning to hook up and run the inverter to a transfer switch so i can just hit the remote on, and the inverter will come on. I believe this will also let me go down the road and use receptacles if i wish, and actually take some charge from the running vehicle alternator.

Ultimately i could probably save the cost of adding the second transfer switch and just run a heavy extension cord to the 30 amp shore power compartment and plug the cord in; but i feel the transfer switch makes the install cleaner, safer and probably runs somewhat more efficient.

But my question still remains regarding the inverter hooked up to the transfer switch. Will the charger breaker still need to be turned off when inverter is running? Im guessing yes it does. Id probably have to tie the charger into the transfer switch somehow?? I should prob start a new thread.
If your proposed inverter transfer switch powers all of the breakers, YES you need to turn off the converter breaker.

You can not charge your batteries with your batteries.

That's why it makes sense to install the inverter transfer switch in the wire that goes to the outlets only.
It leaves out the air conditioner, water heater, gas/electric fridge and converter breakers.

Do you have a breaker marked Outlets or GFCI ? That would be the one to use.
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Old 10-09-2019, 11:35 AM   #25
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If your proposed inverter transfer switch powers all of the breakers, YES you need to turn off the converter breaker.

You can not charge your batteries with your batteries.

That's why it makes sense to install the inverter transfer switch in the wire that goes to the outlets only.
It leaves out the air conditioner, water heater, gas/electric fridge and converter breakers.

Do you have a breaker marked Outlets or GFCI ? That would be the one to use.
Yes, i've thought long and hard about that transfer switch you showed earlier. The one that you plug into and then tap into your outlets. I have two breakers that control 2 seperate circuits of outlets. When i found that out, I just figured, what the heck... Ill go through with the process of hooking it up to the panel.

But I'll look hard at it again here in a min. If i can get lucky and have the tv, bedroom outlets and outside outlets on one circuit, i may just do that one. Oh, i guess i could plug in two of those transfer switch boxes if all outlets were that important to me.?
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Old 10-09-2019, 11:51 AM   #26
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Thanks for the ideas.

I went about turning off the breakers and checking the voltage. It seems the largest 30 amp breaker is the only breaker that actually stops charging current going to the battery (sort of a duh moment). However that breaker also controls the microwave, refriderator, prob a/c and the outlets. I presume it shuts off the entire converter.

But if i want to plug my rv 30 amp plug into my inverter, i suspect none of my outlets will work which defeats the purpose im going for.

Can i isolate just the charging portion of my converter? I also apparently have a 15amp breaker dedicated to a "utility inverter, if applicable". This coach doesnt have an inverter, so is this breaker helpful? It looks like the wire coming from this breaker dead ends onto a circuit board.

Sorry for the crazy questions. The more i dive into this, the more im lost. I do have experience wiring houses and panel boxes, but this stuff is stumping me.

Edit..... Ok, that inverter breaker actually helped! It allows me to keep the converter on but seems to turn off the charging portion. In hindsight, i guess this is another "duh" moment. My first mistake was reading the breaker panel upside down. Anyway, this solves my first issue. Many more to come im sure.
I just replaced the converter in my 1995 Class C.

There is a 110 line that comes off the converter and connects to a breaker in your box, in your case that wire connects to the 30amp breaker. In my case it connects to one of the 15 amp breakers, I forget which one but I did label it.

You have three choices, if you have enough room to add a separate breaker, do that. You could get a double pole breaker and replace a single breaker with two breakers in the same slot or move the ac converter input line line from the 30 amp breaker to a breaker that you won't need when running off your inverter.

Unplug your coach from shore power, disconnect your batteries and then pull the covers off your ac panel and converter panel. Once you can see the wires should be really obvious which wires to move.
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Old 10-09-2019, 01:14 PM   #27
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I just replaced the converter in my 1995 Class C.

There is a 110 line that comes off the converter and connects to a breaker in your box, in your case that wire connects to the 30amp breaker. In my case it connects to one of the 15 amp breakers, I forget which one but I did label it.

You have three choices, if you have enough room to add a separate breaker, do that. You could get a double pole breaker and replace a single breaker with two breakers in the same slot or move the ac converter input line line from the 30 amp breaker to a breaker that you won't need when running off your inverter.

Unplug your coach from shore power, disconnect your batteries and then pull the covers off your ac panel and converter panel. Once you can see the wires should be really obvious which wires to move.
The 30amp breaker was his main breaker not a converter breaker.

He found the converter breaker.
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Old 10-10-2019, 03:56 AM   #28
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The 30amp breaker was his main breaker not a converter breaker.

He found the converter breaker.
He actually didn't find a breaker that turned the converter completely off but...


If anyone is reading this trying to figure out the converter and how to isolate it if they don't have a dedicated breaker my advice might help.
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