Valve position for winterizing 2019 Leprechaun 260 ds

[lambchop]

I am about to winterize my motorhome for the first time and do not know what position the water valves in the smalll service compartment in the “basement” storage area need to be in. Are they all open (up) or closed? Is one open and others closed? Just don’t know. Can someone give me some advice on this dilemma I am having?

[LETMGROW]

Originally Posted by lambchop

I am about to winterize my motorhome for the first time and do not know what position the water valves in the smalll service compartment in the “basement” storage area need to be in. Are they all open (up) or closed? Is one open and others closed? Just don’t know. Can someone give me some advice on this dilemma I am having?

Do you have the manual which came with your RV? The information should be in there for winterizing.
Lynn

[lopsided]

We have a 2016 260DS The valves are up to open, down to close.

M

[Winterbagoal]

Just turn/pull them until water starts to drain out the bottom of the coach.
Remember which way that is, maybe even mark it with a label or a permanent marker pen, and leave them until the water stops draining.

[LETMGROW]

Originally Posted by lambchop

I am about to winterize my motorhome for the first time and do not know what position the water valves in the smalll service compartment in the “basement” storage area need to be in. Are they all open (up) or closed? Is one open and others closed? Just don’t know. Can someone give me some advice on this dilemma I am having?

How many valves do you have? if there are more than two you are also looking at the water heater by pass valve.
Look under your RV. Do you have two drain lines below the bottom or four?
Again, check your manual if you have one.
Lynn

[stearn]

Pull 3 valves up to drain FWT and lines. Drain Hwt at same time. When water is drained push the drain valves back down then turn valve to FWT so antifreeze bypass’s it. Then position Bypass valves located behind the HWT. I put an access door to the water pump , I unscrew the water pump intake line then screw on a line that is inserted in the anti freeze container . Then go in turn on pump open faucets one at a time until you see red. You tube has videos that are very helpful!
I usually am heading south before a hard freeze. I just blow out my water system , and put antifreeze in the drains and gray and black tanks.

[stearn]

Have you downloaded the coachmen app? That has the information and pictures of how to winterize.

[grindstone01]

Are you questioning that if water is present would it make any difference for the valve to be opened or closed? Once ice has formed, it will expand in all directions as it gets colder. A open valve or hose is just as likely to burst as in a closed system.

[LarryinID]

Originally Posted by lambchop

I am about to winterize my motorhome for the first time and do not know what position the water valves in the smalll service compartment in the “basement” storage area need to be in. Are they all open (up) or closed? Is one open and others closed? Just don’t know. Can someone give me some advice on this dilemma I am having?

You need to open all three to drain. And open your hot and cold valves to allow air to enter as it drains. Let it drain over night (ridiculous small tube to drain tank!)

Then close all three and close the valve adjacent to the fresh water tank.

If you are going to use antifreeze then you need to cycle the three hot water tank bypass valves which are under the closet. Remove the large drawer.

Then turn the fill valve in the water fill compartment for winterization.

If using antifreeze use a short hose (2 ft) and dip into antifreeze jar. I sit the jar on small ladder or tie in place if on road. Close all RV inside valves. Turn on pump and cycle each valve till you get antifreeze. Don’t forget outside shower and toilet.

When home I instead use compressed air. Same procedure but with air compressor connected to fill connection. No need to cycle hot water bypass in that case. Set compressor outlet pressure tp 40 or 50 psi.

You might want to put a little antifreeze in bathroom drains, including toilet. Not needed for kitchen sink as it isn’t a water filled p trap.

[LarryinID]

Originally Posted by stearn

Pull 3 valves up to drain FWT and lines. Drain Hwt at same time. When water is drained push the drain valves back down then turn valve to FWT so antifreeze bypass’s it. Then position Bypass valves located behind the HWT. I put an access door to the water pump , I unscrew the water pump intake line then screw on a line that is inserted in the anti freeze container . Then go in turn on pump open faucets one at a time until you see red. You tube has videos that are very helpful!
I usually am heading south before a hard freeze. I just blow out my water system , and put antifreeze in the drains and gray and black tanks.

I used to separately drain my hot water tank first. This year I drained the system first ( as above ) and the hot water tank emptied fully.

I too made the access cover into a door. Can’t believe the idiots used screws on something I need to access several times each year.

There is no need to unscrew the water pump intake. That is what the valve in the fill compartment is for! ( That is the compartment with the cleverly color coded connections: white for black water tank and black for fresh water. They had to search for a nincompoop stupid enough to design that!)

PS: the 260 DS has a water pump switch in the fill compartment. But it is kinda silly because you need to go inside to cycle valves anyway.

[LarryinID]

Originally Posted by LarryinID

I used to separately drain my hot water tank first. This year I drained the system first ( as above ) and the hot water tank emptied fully.

I too made the access cover into a door. Can’t believe the idiots used screws on something I need to access several times each year.

There is no need to unscrew the water pump intake. That is what the valve in the fill compartment is for! ( That is the compartment with the cleverly color coded connections: white for black water tank and black for fresh water. They had to search for a nincompoop stupid enough to design that!)

PS: the 260 DS has a water pump switch in the fill compartment. But it is kinda silly because you need to go inside to cycle valves anyway.

Thinking about this now I might need to cycle the hot water tank bypass valves anyway. Water could hang in the small section of pipe above the vertical bypass valve.

[stearn]

One other thing I found , no matter how much you blow out the system the filter (screen) on the water pump still holds water. I found for me just a easy to siphon antifreeze screwing hose to intake of water pump position anti freeze in storage area no ladder needed.
I open the relief valve after removing the drain plug on the hwt , to be sure all water drained. On first Rv , set bypass valves, caused a vacuum thus split tank in the spring. Costly mistake !

[LarryinID]

Originally Posted by stearn

One other thing I found , no matter how much you blow out the system the filter (screen) on the water pump still holds water. I found for me just a easy to siphon antifreeze screwing hose to intake of water pump position anti freeze in storage area no ladder needed.
I open the relief valve after removing the drain plug on the hwt , to be sure all water drained. On first Rv , set bypass valves, caused a vacuum thus split tank in the spring. Costly mistake !

Reset bypass valves after blowing out bypass line so shouldn’t have the tank issue. Good point on pump. I might pump a little antifreeze into pump. I have done that in past. If I open cold valve when pumping shouldn’t get any in hot water tank.

[THenne1713]

You normally open drains and close when empty;
HWTank can be (one or two or three valves);
if three, close inlet/ outlet and open bypass;
if two, close inlet, open bypass,
if one Valve, flip to BYPASS