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Old 03-05-2014, 09:33 AM   #1
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Water damage in loft area

I am heartsick this morning. I lifted up the mattress in the loft and saw a little bit of white mold under it. Since the mattress was old and nasty, I threw it out. Now I notice that there is ICE in one corner of the loft area and water damage along the back wall and in that right side corner. It is not as extensive as what I have seen on YouTube. I do not have a lot of money to repair this right now. I am looking for some ideas on how to temporarily correct this problem. Please help!
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Old 03-05-2014, 10:57 AM   #2
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Most water leaks happen around the forward facing window. Clean out any old caulk and re do with good RV caulk, not silicone because nothing else will stick if you use it and it will come off. In addition, check roof seams above the wet area. Dicor makes products for these applications.
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Old 03-05-2014, 07:01 PM   #3
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Welcome to the forum. Your first order of business is to stop the leak or at least tarp your RV. You will also want to dry out the area and let your RV air out. You can poke around on the wood to see if it is soft or not. If it's a new leak, it may not be as bad as you think.
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Old 03-12-2014, 07:09 PM   #4
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I just had to rebuild ours last fall after finding out that the previous owner tried to seal the aluminum moulding around the front with caulking. Long story short, the water was running down behind the moulding and getting trapped under the plywood.

Yes, your first order of business is to find and stop the leak.

Secondly, if you have rotten wood, you'll have to replace it. Speaking from experience, I can tell you that while it's not a novice repair, is can be done with basic carpentry skills and tools.
As for the cost, well, it may not be as expensive as you think. Off the top of my head, I think my repair was less than $100 US.
A couple sheets of plywood was my biggest expense, and of course the labor was free.
If you're not able to do the work yourself, then I imagine the cost of the repair would skyrocket, because it IS very time consuming and labor intensive.

Hopefully you don't have any major damage and it just needs to dry out. Either way, don't be afraid of it, it can be fixed.
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Old 03-23-2014, 09:39 AM   #5
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More info please...

I too have the same problem on my rig. I removed everything from the roof, replaced a few vents, and used Eternabond tape on all the joints up to the roof/front cap joint. Then I rolled on four coats of the liquid rubber over the seam tape. Cost me about 400 dollars in supplies. Thought I had the problem fixed. Now I find out that because my rig sits on a sloped driveway, all the water that was in the ceiling ran down into the nose cap and froze over the winter pushing out on the sidewalls at the sharp radius bend.

A took some small finishing nails and nailed the side panels back into place. As each nail seated, small webs of water would spray out from the head of the nail. I would like to caulk over the nail heads (or maybe use eternabond tape if I can find a way to follow that radius without getting too many wrinkles in the tape) but I do not want to trap that water in the walls. How do I get it out?
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Old 03-23-2014, 10:07 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trikepilot View Post
...A took some small finishing nails and nailed the side panels back into place. As each nail seated, small webs of water would spray out from the head of the nail. I would like to caulk over the nail heads (or maybe use eternabond tape if I can find a way to follow that radius without getting too many wrinkles in the tape) but I do not want to trap that water in the walls. How do I get it out?
I'm afraid you're going to have to remove the interior ceiling and any other trim trapping the water inside. Sounds like your roof is watertight, now you have to get the moisture out or mold and rot will develop. After exposing the interior, (I'm betting vinyl ceiling) place fans inside to circulate and dry everything out. Then use a biocide (bleach) on exposed wood and rebuild interior.
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Old 03-23-2014, 10:23 AM   #7
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Another leak source on a class C is the clearance lights on the front overhead. Remove the lights and bed them properly.

Ken
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Old 03-24-2014, 06:44 PM   #8
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So sorry to hear about your leak ! That is when you know you are a true owner of a Class C ( The over the Cab Leak ) . I think most of us have or will have to deal with this . Lots of info here and many years of wisdom just for the asking . Good luck on your repair , It might not be as bad as it looks .. PS welcome aboard !!
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Old 03-25-2014, 07:53 AM   #9
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I've decided

I am really happy with the way the Eternabond tape worked on the roof seams. I have read many opinions on various forums and decided that I will remove the aluminum trim covering the side wall to front slope corners on the cab-over section and put down the seam tape. Then I will replace the trim on top of the tape with new screws. I can cut small slits along the inside edge of the radius turn and as I lay the tape down, I will overlap the pieces in a radial pattern around the turn.

I should have done the cap at the same time I did the roof. I still need to find a way to seal the clearance lights without having to re-caulk them every year. I might use butyl putty for those.
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