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Old 01-27-2013, 06:48 PM   #1
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Why "5 gallons" of pink winterizing fluid ?

Hey All :
I an RV noob, so....'Just curious as to why the manual recommends that we put a whopping 5 gallons of the non-toxic, pink winterizing fluid into our system ?

I put in about 2 gallons worth and was able to run the recommended cup full thru the various taps, shower, toilet etc...without needing 5 gallons.

Am I missing something important ?

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Old 01-27-2013, 06:55 PM   #2
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Old 01-27-2013, 07:20 PM   #3
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I don't see the need for 5 gallons. I don't put any in here because it doesn't get cold enough to freeze that hard. I have heated holding tanks and if it does get and stay below freezing I have a space heater I put in and open cabnets. Less hassle in dewinterizing. Only took me a couple of hours Saturday to do.
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Old 01-27-2013, 07:31 PM   #4
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Did you make sure you put some down the sinks and shower to fill the traps. The toilet should be flushed till the pink comes out and leave some in the bowl to keep the flang seal wet. Did you do the outside shower if you have one. You will also want to open the low point drains to make sure there is no water in them.
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Old 01-27-2013, 07:33 PM   #5
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I have never put more than 2 gallons in the system. I do usually pour an extra gallon into the toilet and gray tank just for good measure. Not sure it's needed though cause they are all empty. I can't imagine the need for 5 gallons.

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Old 01-27-2013, 08:01 PM   #6
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5 gal Seems like a lot to me even if you have to do a washer. I always blow out with air first and I never put antifreeze in the fresh water tank but do pump through water input with valve in "city" position so it gets to all areas. Have also have an input location with a valve just before the pump that isolates the Fresh water tank and pump AF to all required locations. It works fine and I have never used 5 gal.

But this stuff is cheap so does it really matter if you use more. Some people.save it but I just could not be bothered from year to year. Don't know if has a shelf life.
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Old 01-27-2013, 09:47 PM   #7
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I had to put in 4-5 gallons just get up to the level where my pump would draw it up.

After attending a local RV show I noticed the the displayed rigs all seemed to have operational toilets ( will probably be replacing mine soon so was looking particularly close at them ) with the pink stuff. Not a bad idea for couple extra gallons of pink stuff in the tank you would be set for any bathroom emergencies for occasional usage. I like to take mine out for a monthly drive, weather permitting and think it would be handy to still be able to use the facilities. I am sure that a slight amount of waste will keep easily till spring.

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Old 01-27-2013, 10:28 PM   #8
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Did the instructions say to put the fluid in the fresh tank ??
If you drain the fresh tank and disconnect the 12v pump inlet,if the pump is lower than the fresh tank , blow back through the line , use the low point drains , if you have them, by pass and drain the hot water tank and hook a pick up hose from the pump direct to the jug of A/F.
(If you have an air compressor then blow the lines , by puting 40psi air , into the city water hook up, and run air through with the taps and toilet valve open. after you close the low point drains.)
Then close the low point drains and turn on the 12v pump. you should only need 2 gals.
NOW, if you don't have low point drains, or blow the lines and are using the A/F to push the water out of the system, the first jugs of A/F will be diluted by the water and not provide the full rated protection, then you might need 5 gals.
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Old 01-28-2013, 05:21 AM   #9
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If you don't have a hot water tank bypass valve, you may need more AF for hot water tank.

Depending on what your coach has, don't forget the washing machine and the line going to the ice cube maker.
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Old 01-28-2013, 07:07 AM   #10
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RVThere may have your answer. In some older campers I had, before water heater bypass, it took 4-5 gallons before I could get pink in all the hot water points. I would then drain the hot water tank and use that in the drains. If you have a water heater bypass and can drain the water heater you won't need over 2 gallons. I use an air pressure plug in my MH and can do it with one gallon. The toy hauler takes more like 2 1/2 to 3 gallons. It has 2 55 gallon fresh water tanks and the low point drains are not as good as the MH. The MH is soooo easy compared to the toy hauler. And I don't have to crawl around on the ground to get to the tank drains.
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Old 01-28-2013, 10:02 AM   #11
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Thanks all. I don't have any bypass valves, but, did do the low-point complete drain out of fresh water including all holding tanks and hot water heater.
So, yes, I did have to put the pink into the fresh water tank...argh...and will have to do a thorough flush and sterilization of the same in the spring.
We're up in Canada and we've had a severe cold snap here lately. -18 to -25 C...our RV lived in Florida before that...poor guy.

btw...I do like the idea of the pressure blow out and just leave the whole system dry....but what about any gaskets and seals ?...do you notice any leaks from them drying out ?
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Old 01-28-2013, 10:19 AM   #12
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No leaks. With everything closed I put very low air pressure in the valve. I use a portable 1 gallon compressor and regulate it to 10-15 psi. Less than it would get with city water and less than the pump. Then started the closest to the tank and opened things until I got only air. The water heater was bypassed and drained. Then I put pink stuff in the fresh water tank and ran the pump to make sure the pump and lines were pink. Pink stuff in the traps and done.
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Old 01-28-2013, 12:10 PM   #13
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Your goal is to purge regular water from the lines/valves etc - whether you use air or "pink stuff" is your call and how much you use depends on the rig/setup. I suspect most people spend a few bucks in put in a hot water bi pass system which should reduce the amt of "pink stuff" significantly. Think this is a case where common sense should prevail over instruction manual.

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