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Old 05-31-2015, 06:13 PM   #15
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Read the output of a panel, double it and add 20%.

You could just use a 50 amp fuse on a 45 amp controller. Just make sure the wiring can handle more then 50 amps, so the fuse blows, before the wire melts.

Put the fuse near the battery.
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Old 05-31-2015, 06:31 PM   #16
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Im running 4awg from controller to batteries. And running 8awg from panel too controller. Solar panels are 100 watt. Define close to batteries. The closet I can get to the batteries is 3 ft. I'm sure it not a good idea to have the fuse in the battery box, or is that ok.
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Old 05-31-2015, 06:34 PM   #17
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In the battery box
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Old 05-31-2015, 06:39 PM   #18
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Regarding the portable panels themselves. My two panels are regular 100w panels, with a couple pieces of PVC to make a leg that allows for tilt and folds for storage. They travel under the bed in the bedroom. Connecting cable with quick connector rolled up and hanging from the wall of the electric bay where the solar controller resides. Quick and easy to deploy and tear down as needed. Inexpensive and gets the job done.
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Old 05-31-2015, 06:49 PM   #19
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So can I use
Controller to battery 60A
Panel to controller 30A
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Old 05-31-2015, 06:58 PM   #20
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The fuse to controller is for a catastrophic short and it can be placed in the battery box, not the controller though. U can use a 220v shutoff pull type box with DC buss fuses in both, splitting them, cheap and fishes are cheap. I use 60 amp in both for 450w approximately 27 amp. When you pull the plug both circuits are off.
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Old 05-31-2015, 07:42 PM   #21
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Solar panel setup

Would you be able to show me your portable solar panel setup of the panels.
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Old 06-01-2015, 06:59 AM   #22
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John,
Renogy sells the suitcase portables with or without controllers. You could get them without and buy a larger (20 or 30A) controller separately, then use Y connectors as someone else suggested. I really liked the idea of the guy who combined roof and portable with a single controller. Sizing the controller to maximum input plus 20% is the key in any case.
I have the Renogy 100w portable with integrated 10A controller plus two Renogy 100w panels on the roof going to a 30A controller. Since the roof panels have a max of 5.9 amps each, I can add two more panels to the roof without exceeding the capacity. Or I could bypass the portable controller and use Y cables from the portable panels.
I could also just leave everything as is and connect the portable to the battery bank when camped in the shade and let the controllers sort it out.
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Old 06-01-2015, 07:35 AM   #24
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Skimuggs , you have a controller for the roof panels and a controller for the portable. I'm leaning toward the Renogy 100 watt portable with controller. I want 200 watts solar. I'm not wanting to put any panels on the roof as of yet. So I'm trying to decide portable with no controller or with. From what I see off the Renogy the controllers are very capable and can be configured. I just want to make sure having 2 controllers with not cause problems. If I can not then I world get a morning star ts45 and no controller on the panels. What are you're thoughts.
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Old 06-01-2015, 08:14 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JWLSC View Post
Skimuggs , you have a controller for the roof panels and a controller for the portable. I'm leaning toward the Renogy 100 watt portable with controller. I want 200 watts solar. I'm not wanting to put any panels on the roof as of yet. So I'm trying to decide portable with no controller or with. From what I see off the Renogy the controllers are very capable and can be configured. I just want to make sure having 2 controllers with not cause problems. If I can not then I world get a morning star ts45 and no controller on the panels. What are you're thoughts.
You should be fine with the 2 sets but you might still want to do the ring terminal conversion that I did to keep your battery bank from looking like a porcupine. Be aware that mine came set for AGM batteries as a default and I had to configure the controller for my twin 6V setup (flooded). This would be the simplest set up for you, but you might want to start with just one. I started with the portable as a dipping my toes experience, then realized that the portable was useless while traveling, or over night stopping, plus I had to worry about it walking away. Once I figured out how to run cables from the roof to a controller, I went with roof mounts and haven't been plugged to shore power since. First dry camping experience is coming up this weekend at a state park.
If you are comfortable with doing a little electrical work, you could get the sets without controllers, get a 20 or 30 amp PMW controller and do Y connectors. This would allow for longer panel to controller cables for optimum placement of the panels, quick hookup and the possibility of future roof panels.
I recommend the Viewstar 20 or 30amp controller. The Renogy suitcase comes with the 10amp Viewstar and I was impressed with its capability. I got the well recommended Solar30 for my rooftop setup and it is very limited compared to the Viewstar.
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Old 06-01-2015, 05:20 PM   #26
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My solar panels are attached to the roof. I had a long run from the rear closet to the TS-45 so I used 2 gauge wire. From the solar controller to the batteries is another 6', more 2 gauge wire. I also used the connectors shown above to make a pigtail from the battery bank to a 12v Trojan battery I use to power my trolling motor for my inflatable catamaran fishing boat. Remember some deep cycle batteries want 14.8 volts during charging, Trojans. I have mine setup for 14.6 just to be cautious. Most solar controllers do not adjust beyond 14.4.
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Old 06-02-2015, 06:50 AM   #27
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Viewstar controllers have great adjustability plus they are 4 stage and perform an equalization on the 28th of every month. I was able to set mine to the Trojan specs 13.2 float, 14.8 bulk and 15.5 equalization. After watching the video above, I am tempted to replace my roof panel Solar30 with the Viewstar 30amp controller. The Solar30 is a single setting so I have to switch between 13.5 for normal camping to 14.5 for dry camping. I use those because it seems to charge about .2 above what it is set for.
What do you want for $30? LOL!
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Old 06-02-2015, 11:38 AM   #28
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BTW the onboard Thor ACE converter won't take the batteries to 14.6 or 14.8. I might set my controller to 14.8 but the 14.6 seems to be doing just great. I have not set a desulfurization cycle. I have the BatteryMinder desulfurization system wired in and so far I am very pleased. I store it in Lucerne Valley, Mojave Desert - hot and single digit humidity, I am concerned about fluid loss. I have 14.6 at the battery. I have tried 14.8 and I get 14.8 at the battery.

I had a Peugeot diesel and its battery blew just while sitting one day. It gets your attention. So for now I am conservative. We get a lot of sun each day and I camp primarily at the high altitude alpine lakes, 8,000'.
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