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Old 01-02-2011, 10:25 PM   #43
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If you can find a definition for 'deep cycle battery' that is objective and can be seen in battery specifications so as to easily identify one that is a 'deep cycle' and one that is not, please let me know. I have not found one yet.

BryanL, This may help you with your discussion.

The 12volt Side of Life (Part 1)

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Old 01-03-2011, 10:08 AM   #44
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Let's everyone take a deep breath and keep our comments focused on the topic and not attack the views of others. We're all entitled to our opinions.

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Old 01-03-2011, 11:02 AM   #45
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I've got some experience with deep cycle batteries as well... Being my entire stick house is powered by a 4Kw inverter and 8 6V deep cycle batteries (820 Ah)

Don't need to make thing complicated... Buy from a good battery dealer with a good warranty. Buy batteries that will fit you Ah needs...
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Old 01-03-2011, 07:27 PM   #46
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From Trojan Battery:

What is the difference between a deep cycle battery, a starting battery, and a dual-purpose battery?

A deep cycle battery has the ability to be deeply discharged and charged many times during its service life. It is designed specifically for powering electrical equipment for long periods of time. An automotive or starting battery is designed for brief bursts of high current and cannot withstand more than a few deep discharges before failure. This is why it is unable to start your car if you accidentally leave the lights on more than a couple of times. For applications where both engine starting and light deep cycling are required, a dual-purpose battery is often used. This type of battery is neither a starting nor a deep cycle battery but rather a compromise between the two so it performs both functions adequately.

Can I use my Deep Cycle battery as a starting battery?

Deep cycle batteries can be used for engine starting but starting batteries should not be used for deep cycle applications. A deep cycle battery may have less cranking amps per pound than a starting battery, but in most cases a deep cycle battery is still more than adequate for the purpose of starting an engine.

What are the advantages and disadvantages of gel, AGM, and flooded lead acid deep cycle?

Generally, gel and AGM batteries have about 20% less capacity, cost about two times more, and have a shorter cycle life than comparable flooded lead acid batteries. However, Gel and AGM batteries do not need watering, are safer (no acid spilling out), can be placed in a variety of positions, have a slower self-discharge characteristic, and are more efficient in charging and discharging than flooded batteries (see table below). Gel batteries are more suitable for deep cycling applications whereas AGM batteries are more for light cycling and engine-starting applications.

Flooded
Gel
AGM
Charge/Discharge Efficiency
89%
98%
99%
Self discharge rate (per month)
13%
1-3%
1-3%
Finish Voltage
15.3-16.0V
14.1-14.4V
14.1-14.7V
Float charge:
13.2-13.7V
13.4-13.8
13.4-13.8V
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Old 01-03-2011, 07:28 PM   #47
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And more:

DEEP CYCLE LEAD ACID: MANUFACTURING TECHNIQUES

A. A Quality Process from Beginning to End
Trojan's dominance in deep cycle products is not an accident, but rather the result of years of R & D investment, continuous product testing and adherence to strict manufacturing procedures.

Unlike high volume battery manufacturers, Trojan has not gone into high speed plate production techniques; nor have we sacrificed the quality of our product by using other shortcuts.

Rather, we still produce CAST grids with heavy WIRE and FRAME design.

To each grid, Trojan applies its specially formulated Alpha Plus paste formulation. Its the optimized paste density of this proprietary formula which provides our products with their superior cycle life.

Another Trojan exclusive is its curing process. Once the grids are pasted, they are placed in specially constructed curing rooms which are temperature and humidity controlled.

Then they are slowly cured. This provides Trojan deep cycle plates with the most tenacious active material.

Once the plates are cured, they are then hand assembled, sealed and formed.

Each step is completed under rigorous quality control standards to insure greater cycle time and battery life.

B. A Reputation Built Upon Performance

Trojan deep cycle batteries have consistently delivered a greater number of cycles over the competition.

The lower end-of-charge current acceptance by Trojan deep cycle batteries means reduced:
battery heat
water consumption
recharge cost
gassing
damage to active material
In summary, Trojan Deep Cycle batteries provide:

Features
Proprietary Alpha Plus Paste Formulation
MaxguardŽ Advanced Design Separator
Longer cycle life
Lower end-of-charge current
Reduced water consumption
Benefits
Maximum run time
Greater cycle life
Lower electricity costs
Less battery maintenance
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Old 01-04-2011, 11:44 AM   #48
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Let's everyone take a deep breath and keep our comments focused on the topic and not attack the views of others. We're all entitled to our opinions.

Rick

True, people are entitled to their own opinions. They are not entitled their own facts.

Anyone who comes on here and announces that car starting batteries will last just as long as true deep cycles in an RV application, is just spouting his own facts. That is not the multi-decade experience of those of us who have used lead-acid batteries of all types.

You can cite all the theoretical ideas you want, but there is no substitute for real-life experience, wether it be my own or Handy Bob's.

I deal all the time with people who want to be seen as the smartest people in the room with pompous prose, but giving no real knowledge or experience. To me, they are as droll and vapid as they are irrelevant.

Give me real world testing, not theoretical ideals.
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Old 01-04-2011, 12:35 PM   #49
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We ran a pair of Trojan 6 volt 105's in our 24 ft KIT 5er for about 10 years - did LOTS of boondocking, and with a 20 watt or so solar panel, could stay out pretty much indefinitely at the rate of power usage my wife and I typically used.

I thought the batteries were going bad when power output seemed to drop noticeably, bought new batteries, and the power drop remained - turned out to be deteriorated crimp-on wiring connectors - I replaced all those throughout the 5er with new, soldered on ones, and both the old and new batteries were good as new - at least in our usage.

I gave the old Trojans to my dad for his 5er, and he got another 5 years out of them before selling the 5er - for all I know, they may STILL be going strong!

Now, with the Winnie MH, we have a pair of Interstate deep-cycle 12 volt jobs, and have upgraded to a 50 watt solar panel, and it exceeds our needs substantially - of course, I'm referring purely to running 12 volt devices - the generator is still needed for microwave oven and AC. The 12 volt stuff is lighting, the TV thru an inverter, and my ham radio stuff that I take along.

Of course, the microwave and AC are not always needed or used, depending upon our actual location and time of year - in the 5er, we have a Honda 2KW generator - the MH has the Onan 4kw job.
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Old 01-04-2011, 06:32 PM   #50
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Well put! It is a shame that so much bad info is put out on the internet and that so many people believe it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wetboy5776 View Post
True, people are entitled to their own opinions. They are not entitled their own facts.

Anyone who comes on here and announces that car starting batteries will last just as long as true deep cycles in an RV application, is just spouting his own facts. That is not the multi-decade experience of those of us who have used lead-acid batteries of all types.

You can cite all the theoretical ideas you want, but there is no substitute for real-life experience, wether it be my own or Handy Bob's.

I deal all the time with people who want to be seen as the smartest people in the room with pompous prose, but giving no real knowledge or experience. To me, they are as droll and vapid as they are irrelevant.

Give me real world testing, not theoretical ideals.
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Old 01-04-2011, 08:32 PM   #51
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Actually theoretical ideas are the basis of modern science and become fact with the appropriate testing and after being proven. Ideas are good, gobblygook is bad.

I don't believe in reinventing the wheel and I believe Trojan over the years has made a pretty good "wheel" which is why I posted the information from their website.

In addition to the 3 JH-185's Trojans I have their excellent amp meter, converter and inverter. I know at a glance the condition of my batteries, the Ah used and recharge them as Trojan suggests.

I firmly believe in experience and learning from others and their experiences keeping in mind that some people can screw up anything.
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Old 01-04-2011, 09:22 PM   #52
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Quote:
I firmly believe in experience and learning from others and their experiences keeping in mind that some people can screw up anything.
HEY!

I represent that remark!
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Old 01-04-2011, 10:04 PM   #53
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HEY!

I represent that remark!
I don't think I was thinking of you when I rote that and I am laughing. Too!
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Old 05-09-2011, 08:29 PM   #54
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I have 3 lifeline 8D batteries (265ah each) in a vehicle built for boondocking. That minimized the number of cells and connections needed for about 800 ah. 800ah from 18 cells is pretty good.
I only have 200 watts of solar. That's been fine so far as I have good engine charging and don't sit for too long.
6v or 12v just describes a container of 3 or 6 cells. 6v is not better or worse. Perhaps due to competitive conditions in the golf cart battery market 6v can be a better value.
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Old 09-23-2011, 10:58 PM   #55
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If you are going to boondock like I have been doing for years, get all the deep-cycle batteries you can reasonably stuff into your coach, and wire them appropriately. Then take every opportunity you can to charge them whether by solar/wind, alternator, or gen set.
So what is the appropriate way to wire them? I am new to all of this and with trying to read all the info on this subject on this site it is becoming a bit overwhelming
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Old 09-24-2011, 10:57 AM   #56
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Six volts in series to form twelve volts. Twelve volts in parallel.
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