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Old 10-02-2017, 06:59 PM   #15
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I would never go back to an absorption propane refrigerator. I like ice cream too much.
To help, we need some specifics on how many house batteries you have and what size are they?
It would also help to know what inverter you have.

IF you have 12V deep cycle batteries, I would recommend changing to Trojan T-105 6v golf cart batteries (made in the USA). You can also use less expensive 6v golf cart batteries from Sams Club or Costco and they will easily outlast 12V deep cycle batteries. You use two 6v batteries in series to replace each 12v battery. I purchased the short cables for linking two batteries together on Amazon.
Hope this helps.

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Old 10-02-2017, 11:04 PM   #16
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Depending on the refer says how long you can go without power. I have gone over 20 hours without power on our refer and everything in the freezer was still frozen. The internal temp of the refer never got over 40 which is still within the safe region for food safety.

You just cannot stand in front of the refer and "surf" what you want for dinner

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Old 10-03-2017, 06:01 AM   #17
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It may be worth your time and $$ to invest in a Battery Monitor as an initial step.

They route all of your electrical current thru a shunt device used to track amps going in and out...and when set up properly...will give you a percentage reading of your State of charge. Once installed...you can take running measurements of exactly what your fridge uses over a 24hr period...see what effect different items have when you turn them on. Take a measure of what you use on an average weekend of boondocking, etc...

If you go with Trojan, Interstate, Crown, etc...deep cycle batteries...you'll be aiming for twice the number of AH you use in a single day. Actually, more...if you can handle the weight and space required. They last more years of not cycled quite as deeply each time...

Once you know the useage from your Battery Monitor, you can also figure out how long it should take to recharge using the generator, and if you decide later to add solar...you'll have the numbers you need to plan out a system that will keep up with your needs given decent weather, and a clear view of the sky.

We have one big inverter... Magnum Energy MS2812... It actually is set up to power our fridge, microwave, outlets...to include the Satellite Dish, Reciever, TV's, etc... You'll need enough inverter to handle your 110v needs with the generator shut down... I have seen some setups with one for the fridge, one for the entertainment system... If I were to go that route...I would try to go with two of the same. That way...if the one running the fridge were to quit working...you could swap them out...to keep the fridge working...and give up the entertainment system until you get a replacement.
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Old 10-03-2017, 08:25 AM   #18
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We have a 10.1 CF residential fridge. I monitor the battery usage with a battery monitor which measures amp hours in and out. At night with tv's/and other appliance on standby, and inverter/charger and fridge running, I use approximately 10 amp hour per hour. I have 4 each GC2 6 volt batteries that provides 200 usable amp hours. If I have to, I can go approximately 20 hours before charging.

4 6 volt golf cart batteries should provide all the power you need.

Hope this helps.
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Old 10-05-2017, 12:29 PM   #19
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If you want to keep the 110V fridge no choice to add batteries for more capacity

And get solar .....they will charge the batteries while boondocking

They definitely build those RV`s for people that live in camping sites .....

some new RV`s dont even have a propane stove all 220V gen runs almost all the time ....what a pity ...
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Old 10-05-2017, 12:49 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by BigDan1 View Post
If you want to keep the 110V fridge no choice to add batteries for more capacity

And get solar .....they will charge the batteries while boondocking

They definitely build those RV`s for people that live in camping sites .....

some new RV`s dont even have a propane stove all 220V gen runs almost all the time ....what a pity ...
Going "all electric" is a disturbing trend that manufacturers are madly rushing toward (imho). I almost always boondock, and my dual power fridge and gas cooktop are great for this. I can't see myself camping without these gas appliances.

As I understand it, the manufacturers save a lot of dollars installing a residential fridge instead of a dual power one. Same with an electric cooktop. Same thing with the "frameless windows" they all use now, which I see a lot of owners complain about. In a perfect world, the consumer would have a choice in these options, but most manufacturers seem to be eliminating choices, again to save dollars.
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Old 10-05-2017, 01:02 PM   #21
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We just looked at an 1999 Allegra with a residential frig. The owner had installed 2 140 amp (I think) solar panels. It was enough to keep the frig going and it was cold! He hadn't been running the RV because it was hard to park it but he never turns off the frig. He said there was no point since it didn't cost anything. Sooooo, I think solar would help you a lot unless cloudy or under a tree. Maybe get some solar that you can put out easily. As the others who replied have said, make sure you have some good batteries and enough of them, but do consider solar!
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Old 10-05-2017, 01:09 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by 89sandman View Post
If you have a onboard propane tank for your furnace I'd dump the residential and add a gas/electric. Problem solved.
If you've ever upgraded to a residential you'll never go back to gas/electric.
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Old 10-05-2017, 06:19 PM   #23
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RV fridges are great in theory but in practice they leave something to be desired. They take forever to get cold and recover after opening the door, they are finicky about being level, they have many documented issues including fires. If they ran as reliably as residential units we wouldn't be having this discussion but they don't.

And I agree about the all electric trend. Nice on luxury coaches that are going to be in parks most of, if not all of, the time but not really all that good for the rest of us. Carrying around propane is easy. Generating electricity and storing it is relatively difficult and expensive.
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Old 10-07-2017, 07:07 PM   #24
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Addressing the OP's original question, It is hard to say if you are doing something wrong without more information. We have a residential fridge and we do boondock. You were correct in running your generator in the am and the pm. If your battery array is sized correctly and your batteries are in good shape, with proper energy management you should be able to last the night.

If you ran your furnace (assuming yours is a propane fired furnace and not a diesel burner furnace) you consumed stored energy in your house batteries. It takes power to run the blower or your furnace. If you charge your electronic devices while sleeping, you are consuming stored energy in your batteries. We charge our devices while running the generator. We try and not open the fridge door after running the generator in the pm. We don't run excess lights in the pm. If it is going to be cold at night, we get the coach really toasty when running the generator in the pm. The thermostat is set at something around 55-60 when we go to bed (depending on who sets it ).

If you have an energy manager that allows you to choose the amps supplied to your battery charger, I would set this to something close to 50amps when running the generator (I roll ours back to 15 amps when plugged in to shore power). If your batteries are in good shape you should reach "float charge" faster. Perhaps in a couple of hours.

If local regulations allow you to run your generator until 9pm (or later), delay starting your generator until 2 hours before the last time that you can run the generator.

When first boondocking, I went as far as to shut off my inverter and even my fridge too! Over time we just learned to be better managers of energy. The inverter stays on now, as does the fridge.

Oh, one more thing. We increased our cooling capacitance in our freezer by keeping a gallon jug of water (or two) in there. When frozen, this just acts like an "ice box". The beverages and foods in the fridge do the same thing. You could even take one of the frozen water jugs out of your freezer and place it on the top shelf of your fridge. This will help things stay cooler longer!

Hope that this info helps do that you make many happy memories in your new coach.
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Old 10-08-2017, 07:45 AM   #25
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havingablast just gave the answer that we try to avoid: running the gen !

I respect is way of doig things ,but for us silence is golden !

part of the the price for the gen maintenance + gas to run it , pays for the added batteries ..or the 12V danfoss fridge ....


In williston VT , ( Walmart ) there is a lady with kids that lives in her RV ....
she runs a gen 24hre a day because she has a 110V fridge ....and probably dead batteries ...
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Old 10-08-2017, 08:47 AM   #26
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Thanks so much for all the help. I think we will look into some of these suggestions before next season. We rarely boondock but when we do it would be nice to at least have the fridge run all night. The help we have gotten on this site is amazing. Thanks so much everybody!
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Old 11-07-2017, 07:36 AM   #27
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Residential Fridge modification

I just happened to come across the Residential Fridge post and boon docking or long traveling between CG's. The Residential Fridge in "Defrost" mode will hit your batteries for 45Amps. (picture of amps used in attached links). The Fridge automatically activates the defrost mode randomly, and runs 20 minutes each cycle (Frigidaire model). That will kill your battery when not on Shore Power, even the TV charging can not keep up with that load while traveling.

The switch (links below) disconnects the defroster from the circuit and lights the LED's to let you know if the fridge wants to activate the defroster, and if the circuit is in bypass mode. It is used while traveling and while boon docking. When Shore-Power or generator is available flip the switch to normal and the fridge is in control again. It has been tested for 3 straight days with the defroster in the off position with no issues.

If you go to the attached links, there is a wiring diagram that can be modified for any Residential Fridge (based on specific fridge wiring and control) and put you in control when you will allow the fridge to go into "Defrost" mode. It has been tested and works perfectly. Your fridge wiring diagram can be found on line (Google it), and with the Frigidaire model, there is a wiring diagram under the fridge behind a front plate.

If you decide to build the circuit, make sure you turn off the RV 110VAC power, before starting.

***** CAUTION the circuit power is 110VAC *****
have someone that works with 110VAC wire it up for you.



https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f...tor-46127.html Post#9

Once on the forum, if you want more residential fridge info use the search in the gold bar "residential fridge".

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Old 11-07-2017, 10:47 AM   #28
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Drawing 45 amps for 20 minutes is only 15 AH from your batteries. As long as your traveling, some of that will be replaced thru the charge line, once the cycle is over.

I tried switching off the defrost cycle on my fridge. By the next day, the fridge was running longer and warming up. I discovered that the frost was building up and blocking the air flow.

I also followed the fridges draw with my battery monitor and could see the increased AH usage. It turned out that turning off the defrost cycle was actually increasing AH use.

If your going to plug in at the end of the day anyway, the battery will recharge overnight.

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