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Old 08-25-2018, 11:22 AM   #15
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Nice concept, but the Amazon reviews aren’t very good. A substantial number of them die young. I'll wait until the technology improves.
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Old 08-26-2018, 12:05 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twinboat View Post
There is no energy savings in running the microwave at 50% power for twice as long.

I understand that you do it due to an undersized inverter, but if the inverter can handle the full load, I would use full power.
Not true ... for those using lead-acid batteries. At higher current draw the energy that goes into heat in the battery gets quite large. As high as 20% though usually closer to 15%. (1/0.85)-1 makes that 17.6% of the energy used . Cut the power draw (current) in half and the heat/losses in the battery are 75% less, more like 4-5%.

That the microwave input power is 54% of full when run at 50% cooking power eats up a bit of that but the energy savings is not inconsequential when you are boon docking and it's cloudy out.

But, if you are in a hurry, yes, it's slower.

My inverter is not undersized, it's rated just under the maximum current capability of my battery.
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Old 08-26-2018, 12:08 AM   #17
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Nice concept, but the Amazon reviews aren’t very good. A substantial number of them die young. I'll wait until the technology improves.

True, but there are four of them in my family, maybe 12 years total experience. No failures yet. I should probably write a review like people that experience failures do. In any event, they are only $115. And at least in my case, much lighter than the factory unit (which I like in part because my kitchen is at the back of the 5th wheel).
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Old 08-29-2018, 08:53 AM   #18
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Similar to Reed, I am a big believer in 48 volt systems, in fact it is what we normally install in conversion vans and class Cs.

An example of "why" is the solar charge controller.
- 6 RV size panels on a 12 volt system requires a $600 midnight solar classic or similar. It is a healthy size box.

- 6 RV size panels on a 48 volt system can be done on a solar charge controller the size of a cell phone with a cost of under $200.

The battery selection depends on the end use, but if you run many 120 vac loads, a high quality marine grade AGM is hard to beat.

Certainly we have done LiFe banks and they are impressive. For an RV that spends time in IA, I would definitely go marine grade AGM.

I really miss living in IA, in spite of a very memorable drive from OH to Muscatine and (-32 F) that night.
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Old 09-05-2018, 07:37 PM   #19
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A lot more is offered at 24/48 volt systems. That is what is residential. RV is 12V and only rvs.
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Old 09-06-2018, 11:57 AM   #20
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I think it depends on how bit a system you need. You say you will be full time, but if I understand correctly, it will be in a 14x7' trailer with tent attached. Full time would suggest a large solar/battery/charge system, but 14x7 with a tent, to me at least, suggests smaller. And you mention keeping costs low. That suggests avoiding a costly electrical system; one that is low maintenance or easily maintained by you.

We spend four months each year (winter, spring and fall) in a 30x8 and it's all boon docking. We get along nicely with 600W of solar, a 900W inverter, and two 30a controllers. We don't watch TV but do have a powerful and power-hungry home computer for Photoshop and similar. We use an inverter microwave, toaster, expresso maker, and lots of little electricity users.

We ... do ........ not ....... use A/C. Ever. We avoid hot places or run fans and mister when we are caught in a hot place. We use propane for fridge and hot water and range. Since you are on a budget but plan to have a 2000i, then it will be your source for A/C. And for extended periods of rain (to re-charge the battery every few days).

So, if you are handy and willing to do it yourself, and are okay with running the generator when you need A/C, you might spend something like this (all mostly rounded up).......

wire and panel brackets .... $100
50a solar controller .... $200
900W sine inverter ..... $300
600W panels ..... $750
45A two-stage Charger ....... $200
200 AH LFP battery ......$1900

This is all at 12V. Simple stuff. An SOC monitor is wise and not included though several LFP battery brands have one built-in (requires a smart phone or tablet). A good one isn't cheap so that helps pay for an LFP battery. Going full time also suggests going with an LFP battery.

I really feel strongly about the LFP. Since you will be full time and possibly doing as many as 365 cycles per year, you will need new lead-acid batteries every few years but might be in a rest home before the LFP caves (some prismatic-cell LFP units are warranted for 83% capacity at the end of 10 years).

If you aren't a big electricity user, you should probably start with four 100W panels. I detest running the 2000i so have 600W. In eight weeks of boon docking in the western US in May and June it never got below 70% charge. I've used the 2000i only three times in the last 18 months, all three during a 17 day period of rain on the CA coast. I have a 300AH LFP battery; I would have used the generator a bit more with a smaller battery.


If you are in a cold or cooler climate and will use propane heat during the night, the juice for the fan should be factored into your electric system size. It might be your largest kWH user if you use it a lot.
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Old 09-11-2018, 08:17 AM   #21
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go to cheaprvliving.com
a TON of info on how to live wonderful off grid on small vehicles, like cars, cargo vans, vans, TCs, any rv and more.
Info on solar for your needs and how to do it and way more info. Hope it helps you a bit.
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