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Old 05-11-2013, 01:31 PM   #15
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Camping world has the Honda eu2000i on sale with free cover and free shipping

Honda EU2000i Generator - CARB Compliant - Honda EU2000IAC - Honda Generators - Camping World
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Old 05-12-2013, 01:57 PM   #16
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Hi Okmunky, thanks for letting me know. Think it will start a 2012 Coleman-Max 13,500, BTU AC. Do I really need the extra 400 in the Yamaha has? Best, John
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Old 05-12-2013, 02:07 PM   #17
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Just looked a little closer Honda is saying I need 3000w for 13,500 BTU. But if that's all I'm running off it? Start it on low, as another RV'er said...would be great.
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Old 05-19-2013, 08:49 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Jim_HiTek View Post
You're getting up to 17 amps from your solar panels. That's more then 50% of a 30Amp connection to shore power.

I think you're fine with just the solars and conservative usage both during the day and at night. Save your money for now until you have a handle on your day-to-day usage. Spend your savings on fuel. You might consider adding another 12V battery OR consider changing the two 12V batts for two 6V. Deep cycle 6V batteries will give you longer life during the charge/discharge cycles you'll be having.
Some reliable info on solar: http://www.amsolar.com/
Pretty good explanations of how it works.
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Old 05-29-2013, 11:39 AM   #19
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The honda eu2000 is really a 1600w continuous generator which is perfect for a 9.2k BTu A/C unit. The major advantage of the honda over the yamaha is that it has a built in pump. Plenty of people sell the cap for it which allows for using an external fuel tank.

For a 21 foot trailer, you could probably get away with a 9.2kBTU unit, but you are pushing it's limits of cooling ability. You might be able to use the Coleman Mach 3 PS(power saving) 13.5K BTU unit. This unit only uses 11.2 amps and 1440watts at max cooling settings. I can't confirm if it works well with the honda eu2000, but if the honda can provide the needed surge for startup, then i don't see why not. The only downfall of the Mach 3 PS unit is that due to the smaller compressor, it takes longer for the evaporator to reach full cold temps. Say 40 minutes instead of a typical 15-20minutes of a normal unit.

Link to Coleman Mach 3 PS literature PDF http://www.rvcomfort.com/rvp/pdf_doc.../mach_3_ps.pdf


Using the honda eu2000 with an external tank, you should be able to go at least 24 hours without filling up the tank. Typically generators only last 4-8 hours requiring you to get up in the middle of the night to refuel.
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Old 05-29-2013, 02:37 PM   #20
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I use two Honda 2000i to run my AC and only one for all other uses. I do have a 4000k onan in the motor home but it is to noisy for my liking. I use it if on the road and need additional cooling other than dash AC. One Honda 2000i will start my 13500 AC on low fan. Found that out by accident. I love these little Honda gensets.
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Old 12-21-2013, 09:20 PM   #21
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I've got a 15 K BTU AC. My choice was a pair of 2KW Hondas, which I cycle when using. They are very easy to handle by myself as I'm solo.
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Old 12-21-2013, 10:13 PM   #22
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Just remember. There is no such thing as a quiet generator. Especially in a super quiet setting. Such as a National Park. The little hum you hear at the store. Turns into a roar at the campsite. On the Blue Ridge Parkway, Where you can hear a propane lantern burn from a 100 yards away. A gasoline motor, even a so called quiet one. Sounds like a freight train.
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Old 12-22-2013, 03:02 AM   #23
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Just remember. There is no such thing as a quiet generator. Especially in a super quiet setting. Such as a National Park. The little hum you hear at the store. Turns into a roar at the campsite. On the Blue Ridge Parkway, Where you can hear a propane lantern burn from a 100 yards away. A gasoline motor, even a so called quiet one. Sounds like a freight train.
So true. In a quiet campground even a quality inverter generator will seem loud. A cheap generator will be unusable.
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Old 12-22-2013, 07:12 AM   #24
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First step is to get a Trimetric 2025 battery monitor.
There are less expensive options. http://http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-12...item27dc2b1eb3

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Old 12-22-2013, 07:55 AM   #25
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There are less expensive options. http://http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-12...item27dc2b1eb3

Joel
Indeed, that would likely work. The idea is one needs a real battery monitor to assess power usage.

What boat you paddling?
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Old 12-22-2013, 10:32 AM   #26
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In my opinion, that 13500 AC is overkill in a 21 foot rig. There are some real nice 5000 BTU window units that will cool that rig.

As I am alone (in a 35 foot rig), I cool only my bedroom area where I have a chair and TV so on 90 (plus) degree days my window AC is more than enough, and I have to open the door to the hot side of the rig to keep from freezing me out!

On clear sky days, and between the hours 10 to 2 (the magic hours for solar), I can run the 5000 from solar input only, with no battery draw.

I do realize that a window unit is too "hillbilly" for some people, but I do not run in that crowd.


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Old 12-23-2013, 07:45 AM   #27
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Indeed, that would likely work. The idea is one needs a real battery monitor to assess power usage.

What boat you paddling?
I am paddling a 18', 45 lb., kevlar, Winona Sundowner. The hard part was finding a way to carry it while pulling the 5er.I finally settled on a Yakima Goalpost in a front hitch and a single roof rack.

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Old 12-23-2013, 08:12 AM   #28
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200 watts of solar is enough if you live very very conservatively.

We survived one winter with 130 watts. We used oil lamps at night, didn't watch TV or use the laptop in the rig and we squeaked by during December-February.

Problem is that days in winter are short and cloudy skies are many.

A 1k generator will help charge the batteries and make life more comfortable. Or add another 200-300 watts of solar.

We've written a lot about our experiences with solar power --

Solar Power for RV's and Boats
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