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Old 10-22-2014, 07:47 AM   #15
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It sounds like you have a handle on your electrical system. I think I would buy a hydrometer and test each cell if your still having battery issues or just for piece of mind until you get your meter. They are cheap, at any autoparts store.

I love my TriMetric 2025 meter but they have a newer 2030 model that has a few more features. I think this meter should be standard equipment on all RV's.

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Old 10-22-2014, 07:56 AM   #16
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If I may,
We have a heater in the rear of our PA (haven't Tried it yet) that uses the heat off the engines coolant, just like the water heater (still hot the next morning) of course then you would need to have the MH running too supply the heat.
Does anyone have a unit like those that have used it and doses it heat pretty good.
Thanks for your words of wisdom,
Tim
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Old 10-22-2014, 03:51 PM   #17
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Question for OP. Are you testing voltage of batteries at rest? You indicate low voltage running furnace and 13.4 charging from TV. I thought you had to check battery voltage with no draw or not actively charging, to see voltage at rest? In your example you would run furnace for 30 minutes, keep all loads off for maybe 30 minutes, then test voltage?

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Old 10-22-2014, 05:49 PM   #18
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I will answer that last question with this reply. First, my battery bank is at the front of my fiver, the charger/converter in the kitchen at the rear. I check voltage typically at rest at a 12v receptacle in the bedroom up front and probably get somewhat accurate readings that way.
I unplugged the fiver from house current when I got home and plugged in the voltmeter which read 13.4 since the RV had only been unplugged a few minutes. I went back to the RV over an hour later and had 12.83. I turned on the furnace, the reading plunged to 12.4 and was down to 12.1 in five minutes. I shut off the furnace, and when it finally cycled down, the reading started coming back up until it reached 12.72 five minutes later and I left.
What I think I need to do is install a meter with a direct connection to the bank to get more accurate readings with load because I am reading the result of current traveling from the bank up front to the converter in the back and back to the bedroom in the front, with a load being generated somewhere in the middle. Does this make sense?
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Old 10-22-2014, 06:24 PM   #19
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We have two 6V batteries and have run the furnace (Carrier) all night set to 66 degrees and still have plenty of battery voltage in the morning so I would have to imagine there is more going on here. Either the motor on your furnace is needing a rewind/rebuild/replacement or something else is requiring a good look.
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Old 10-22-2014, 06:34 PM   #20
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We have two 6V batteries and have run the furnace (Carrier) all night set to 66 degrees and still have plenty of battery voltage in the morning so I would have to imagine there is more going on here. Either the motor on your furnace is needing a rewind/rebuild/replacement or something else is requiring a good look.
I think I may just getting bad readings since the low readings are temporary.
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Old 10-22-2014, 06:41 PM   #21
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ronspradley provided the correct info. You need to let the batteries recover after using a large load like the heater in order to getting a good accurate voltage measurement to determine the battery charge level.
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Old 10-22-2014, 10:06 PM   #22
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Yep SkiSmuggs, you need a hydrometer.
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Old 10-22-2014, 10:56 PM   #23
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Our PA has two furnaces, zoned one for the bedroom and bathroom - the other for the front of the coach. Running just the rear one on cold nights requires little battery.
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Old 10-23-2014, 08:39 AM   #24
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I would expect the voltage to drop when blower comes on. Then go up when it goes off.
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Old 10-23-2014, 08:49 AM   #25
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I would expect the voltage to drop when blower comes on. Then go up when it goes off.
Agreed, but I would rather be reading it at the battery and not after 50' feet of wire and electronics.
This is also a case of blissful ignorance. Before I had a volt meter, I had no idea of what was going on or how it worked. What I saw scared me unnecessarily.
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Old 10-24-2014, 07:24 AM   #26
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36 hours after disconnecting from house current and 10 minutes of running the furnace, the meter reads 12.72, down from the starting point of 12.83. I don't think I have a problem other than not understanding what I was seeing before.
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Old 10-26-2014, 11:59 AM   #27
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A secondary issue I had at the Walmart was the furnace air was only lukewarm (60 degrees or so). I had the same issue while testing in my driveway, so I changed 3 things: switched to the full tank, moved the recliner chair that was against the furnace intake out 2 inches and plugged into house current. The furnace began putting out the hot air I expected, meaning less run time and faster warmups. The hot air continued after disconnecting from house currant, so I either had low pressure, insufficient air intake or a combination of the two. I will also add moving the living room slider out a foot to clear the floor register to reduce load on the furnace fan.
I feel much better now.
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Old 10-26-2014, 12:15 PM   #28
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If your batteries will only charge to 12.5 they are going south. May be time to replace. They need to charge up to 13.8 -14 volts.
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