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Old 06-12-2009, 09:45 AM   #1
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Conroe,Tx
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Generator AMPs available

I have searched the fourms for any thing such as my questions and have not found any info. so here goes. I have a Generac 6500 watt surge at 8125 watt . Has a 120v 30 amp twist lock three prong which I have adapted thru cord converters to my 50 amp service. I also have a 120/240v 30 amp twist lock 4 prong which has my little gears turning after install of a second AC. ??? In a typical 50 amp Rv service you use the 2 legs as two seperate sevices basicly from L1 to ground from L2 to common as seperate 120 outputs.Why then could one not use the 4 prong in the same fassion. IF and I ???( if ) the 120/240 twist on the genset is 30 amps is this 30 amps per side or total. I think I would be looking at just 30 amps total for it is only protected by one 30 amp push breaker. Last note my AC's are both Coleman one 15000/ one 13500 neither entergy savers . Best info I can find on these units the 15000 power usage @ 14.7 amp / 13500 @ 14.5 amp. Keed the dust on ya boots and thanks. BKF

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Old 06-12-2009, 11:33 AM   #2
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The key to this is the generator breaker. If it is a single 30 AMP breaker than all you have is 30 AMPS. If it is a double 30 AMP breaker (like mine) then you have 30 AMPS per side for a total of 60 AMPS.

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Old 06-12-2009, 02:22 PM   #3
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If it is a typical RV generator, I suspect you have two 120 VAC outputs. One at 30 amps and one at 20 amps. Usually the 20 amp is wired directly to the second air conditioner.
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Old 06-12-2009, 02:42 PM   #4
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Sorry I guess I should have said it was portable. BKF
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Old 06-12-2009, 03:16 PM   #5
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Poco- hope i don't offend w/my direction; I don't know how much you know about electricity in RVs so my approach is to err toward safety.

If your gen is 6500 working watts @ 120/240V then you have 6500/240 = 27.3A per leg available which would run most 2-AC RVs. If your gen is 120V, then you have 6500/120 = 54.6A total, split between two 30A twist lock receptacles. You state one is 120/240V so I'm guessing the gen is 240V and you can run either one 120V 30A cord, or one 120/240V 30A cord, but not both. This sounds like a construction gen, possibly of an older design which is no longer made due to the exact nature of your question (i.e. it leaves the untutored operator with the possible conclusion you can run two legs @ 30A plus one at 30A).

From your profile (you should put this in your signature so folks don't need to look it up) it looks like you have a 5er. You mentioned my "50 amp service" which I'll assume is the service on your coach. If that isn't right, then disregard what I'm saying.
The 50A service is two legs of 120V, 180 apart, for 240V if you connected the two thru an appliance or volt meter. You never see 240V appliances on the usual RV, so effectively mfgr's wire some 120 stuff off one leg including the 1st AC, and the second AC unit off the 2nd leg. Assuming you can run your rig on 30A with no problem other than not having the second AC (here I have no idea what loads your King of the Road has otherwise, dishwasher, washing machine, treadmill, salvage car crusher), you should be able to power both ACs plus some other stuff easily, if you wire the power correctly to the 50A service on your rig!!! That's in italics because here you are messing where a lot of lawn-chair DIY'ers shouldn't, tho a careful and attentive electrician could. Get your prongs to spades crossed & if all goes well you will have no more than an insurance claim on your hands, & if all doesn't go well you could have a real bad time; get it done right & all is COOL. HOWever:

You mentioned you have only one 30A push breaker protecting something. That could be a dual breaker with a single push button reset, with the 120V 3-prong outlet double tapped off one side of the dual and the 4-prong 240V tapped one leg off each side of the dual.
If you are good w/a volt meter, start the gen & probe the outlets to figure out what the real available voltages are. If you have 240, then check out the breaker wiring to see if both legs have a breaker. If you can't do that based on the suggestion, your electrical DIY skills aren't up to this analysis and I'd suggest finding an electrician who can make the tests, as you need a qualified conclusion before moving ahead.
Hope this helps.
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