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Old 10-21-2015, 05:16 PM   #15
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Generally furnace 12 volt draw for the blower will be less than 10 amps, furnace does not run all night, cycles on and off. If your coach battery or batteries are in good condition you should be able to run furnace thru quiet hours and have some battery left in the morning. At most the furnace should use 40 amp hours and your RV battery should be able to provide at least 70 or 80 uless your batteries are getting towards end of life. Double this if you have two batteries.
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Old 10-22-2015, 06:44 AM   #16
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FWIW If your battery does run down you will probably be notified by your Propane detector going off. Many fault on low line voltage. The easiest way to deal with it is to start the engine and let it idle. That will charge the house batteries a bit and let the generator start. Once the generator is running the main engine can be shut off and the generator run for a few hours to bulk charge the batteries.
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Old 10-22-2015, 06:53 AM   #17
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The only quiet strategies for more than one day of dry camping/boondocking are more battery power storage and solar.

If you're only going for one night and than hit the road you may be fine. That's assuming your alternator will charge the batteries before the next stop.

With a modest solar system (200 watts and 400 amp/hrs of storage) you would be free to do pretty much anything you wanted. ( No AC or microwave though)
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Old 10-28-2015, 10:03 PM   #18
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What vintage is your sunseeker? If it's a new model, I can give you some decent estimates as I have a 2015.

The 2015 has twin group 24 house batteries, heated and enclosed belly which makes a big difference. Mine also has the optional heatpump and 12 volt tank heat pads. The 12 volt tank pads are most useful when going down the road but use way too much battery to be useful when parked unless you are hooked up. The heat pump is also useful if you have hookups. Most people claim they are only good down to about 40 but I have regularly used mine down to 30'with good results. When using the heatpump, though, keep in mind that the heat is not going into the underfloor ducts. That only happens with the furnace.

I've used the furnace down to 10 degrees with no problems. At 10 degrees I just barely get thru the night with the batteries. at 25 degrees and up I can get two nights almost. This assumes very little other battery use..

Even at 10 degrees, all is ok underneath... Of course don't leave the hoses connected, use your onboard tank. Also keep the water heater on.

One other thing to note...the propane tank is not big...only 9.8 usable gallons in the 12 gallon tank....at very cold temps it goes fast....as in 3 or 4 days at 10 degrees. Consider an 'extend a stay' setup if longer trips are planned.
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Old 10-29-2015, 07:29 AM   #19
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I use a Mr Buddy ventless heater that I modified so I can run it directly off of my MH propane.

We then set the thermostat on the furnace to 55 or 60. Depending on outside temperature (i.e. below freezing) the furnace may kick on once or twice a night.
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Old 11-24-2015, 05:17 PM   #20
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Don't you worry about using Mr. Buddy in side, CO. Does your CO detector ever sound?
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Old 11-24-2015, 07:45 PM   #21
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Gee, you could sleep thru the CO alarm. That be bad.
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Old 11-24-2015, 11:25 PM   #22
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I replaced the 2 (12) volt batteries with 2 golf cart batteries, and wired them up for 12 volts. When it is cold and I run my furnace at night, the meter still shoes nearly full batteries before I go to fire up the genny to recharge them.

Have you tried a "dry run" in the driveway or storage lot yet?
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Old 11-25-2015, 07:05 AM   #23
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Referring to the Mr Buddy - Follow the safety procedures need for fresh air and vent (we leave one of the roof vents open about 1 inch)

We place the unit in the middle of the floor so its clear of cabinets, furnature, furnace ducts, etc. Make sure nothing will fall on top of the unit, keep it well clear of anything that can catch fire, towels, papers, clothes, etc, etc, etc

Install one of the CO alarms that has a ppm digital readout. I never had a CO or LP alarm while using the Mr Buddy. We leave it run all day, night, etc.

The Mr Buddy has two settings, 3k and 9k. 3k keeps things cozy down to the mid 40's, 9k will keep the MH warm down to about 32.

We set the furnace at about 60. If the outside temp is below freezing or the winds are strong, the furnace will kick on now and then.

..
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Old 11-26-2015, 07:00 AM   #24
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If you camp at elevations greater than 7500 feet, be aware the Mr. Buddy will be unreliable. It is designed with an internal oxygen sensor, and at higher elevations it doesn't believe there is enough oxygen and will turn off. Each unit has a slightly different tolerance, so the 7500' isn't absolute, but it is close. The instructions with the unit discuss the issue.
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Old 11-29-2015, 01:37 PM   #25
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IMHO, If you are going to be camping away from power often and for any length of time in colder weather, a propane heater that doesn't need electricity is a good addition. We "boondock" a lot and after having the battery get low enough to prevent the heater from working in below freezing temps. while we were gone prompted me to buy and install an Olympian Wave heater. That was a lot of years ago and I've never regretted it.


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Old 11-30-2015, 10:32 AM   #26
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The Wave, Big Buddie, little Buddie, or even Cube heaters are fine in cold weather for the people in the coach. It's the water lines, tanks I worry about and without running the furnace there is no heat there, unless one has tank heaters but this still leaves water lines. Most RVs can survive down to 25 if it gets to 40 during the day without heat. But if the temp is under 32 and day after day and never gets above we are in trouble with out proper heat and this means in most modern RVs running the furnace or other heat source in piping and tank areas. I have thought about using one of the large computer fans in the return for the furnace to keep cabin air moving into the whole coach but so far just set the furnace at 50 or so plus pile on the blankets at night.

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Old 11-30-2015, 12:12 PM   #27
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I'd rather pay for propane for heat (which vents to the enclosed belly on my trailer) and gas for the generators to charge the batteries to run the furnace at night than deal with any ruptured liquid line. A little propane every night and a little gas during the day is cheap insurance, IMO.

The big buddy heater I have is great, but it won't heat the belly and I'm not sure it will heat the water lines in the cabinets well.
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Old 11-30-2015, 02:57 PM   #28
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The Black and Gray tanks on my Mirada hang down and are exposed to the outside elements, so they will freeze. The fresh tank and all the plumbing is inside, so they are OK.

If we are boondocking below freezing, we use antifreeze to flush the toilet and sink. Not a problem, know your systems and adapt your usage accordingly.
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