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Old 04-27-2010, 12:57 PM   #15
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Hi jeepsrule,
Assuming your battery bank has about 450 amp/hrs available and 225 amp/hrs usable at a 50% discharge then you should be able to run your refer about 6 hours. Now if you use anything else off the batteries that will reduce your time by how much additional load you use and for how long. Hope that helps

On Edit: This is without any contribution from the alternator. 38 amps from the alternator should not be a problem for the alternator but it sure will effect your gas mileage.
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Old 04-27-2010, 02:26 PM   #16
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Thanks all, Looks like the propane is the route to go, to save fuel and wear and tear on all the systems. Just have to remember to turn it off at gas stations.
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Old 04-30-2010, 09:27 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepsrule View Post
Thanks all, Looks like the propane is the route to go, to save fuel and wear and tear on all the systems. Just have to remember to turn it off at gas stations.
Is there a requirement to turn off Propane at gas stations? In 4 years I have never turned mine off except for bridges and tunnels that require it.
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Old 05-01-2010, 08:27 AM   #18
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If the fridge controller calls for cooling when you are using propane, the gas solenoid will be turned on and the controller will ignite the gas. Kinda makes sense to me to not have an open flame around gas vapors.
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Old 05-02-2010, 10:48 PM   #19
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OK but you can throw a match in diesel and not get it to light. I guess if I had a gas coach I might worry about it but diesel is not as flammable.
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Old 05-03-2010, 09:02 AM   #20
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True, but it depends on where you pump your diesel. If there are gas pumps in the area, you're still at risk.
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Old 08-17-2010, 11:59 AM   #21
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Just returned from a 5 week trip. Our MH has a double door Refr, that works only with 120V AC. Our 2000W inverter ran the Refrige while on the road and at least three nights without campground hookups. Two of the nights we ran the Generator for two hours in the AM and another two prior to shutting down for the night.(charging the batteries) The third night the inverter worked for 12 hours without any additional charge. The inverters four 6V batteries never lost more than 50% of their charge. The refrig always worked!
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Old 08-17-2010, 01:45 PM   #22
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Quote:
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...The fridge draws around 350 watts running, more or less, starting power is only slightly higher since it's a resistor, not a motor. power factor is one or so close to it we might as well call it one (you get one watt per volt-amp)

... 3.5 amps at 120 volt is around 35 amps at 12 volt ...
Well my friends, you forgot the efficiency of the inverter...
It is just about 80%, this will take almost 44 amps from the battery.
I do not know about your inverter, but the one I have installed has only 80% eff.
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Old 09-01-2010, 02:47 AM   #23
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Joe - wow, your tiffin should have a 2000 watt inverter and at least 4 house batteries, and you alternator cannot keep up, something is wrong with your alternator.

Our alpine has a 22.6 CuFt Amana refer. That uses around 700 watts to run, when we travel we have to use the inverter, and we have never had a problem. The worst case was, and I check the batteries once we plug into shore power, the charger is throwing about 35 amps in to float them back. Even camping on the farm with no hookups it took 14 hours for the AGS to come on and start up the charger to put the batteries back up. I shut it down after an hour and they lasted all night. Started up the next morning and it took about 90 minutes for them to be fully charged back up. I would have your alternator checked, something is not right.
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Old 09-01-2010, 09:04 AM   #24
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My inverter is wired to run the ice maker only on my Norcold. I have always used propane and did inquire at a Monaco servicing dealer about wiring my Norcold 2 door for 12V and they convinced me not to do it because of battery drain. I see alot of members that do run on 12V and they seem to manage it fine, but I would problely forget to switch back to propane or 110V when I stop and drain my batterys and miss my favorite shows on TV.
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Old 09-07-2010, 01:25 AM   #25
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It has been my experience that all refers which are propane as one choice of fuel, also have an ignition shut off.

What is supposed to happen is that the refer, when the ignition key is turned off, shuts off the propane to the refer, and then the circuit board has a 20 minutes time out where it checks for 12V ignition source being on, and it then restarts the fridge.

We used to go in and turn it off, just to be safe, and because lots of times we were not level. The ignition feature worked though. You can check yours simply by turning off the engine and see if the fridge goes into standby or it will click and the gas solenoid valve should close and stop the operation of gas in the fridge. This is to keep fuel fumes from exploding. This feature is found on all propane fridges, regardless if the coach is gas or diesel.

Now, over the years, on two occasions I have seen the fridge be the reason the RV caught on fire while driving down the road. So nothing is ever safe all the time.

I like the fact in this RV we have a residential fridge, and it runs through the inverter, and the 165W alternator keeps the batteries topped off real nice. I have 8-6V Deep Cycle Golf Cart batteries as house batteries in my coach, and I love how it works so well. I wont love the cost of replacement when that happens, and they will be 5 years old next year. So far they seem to be fine.
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Old 09-07-2010, 10:24 PM   #26
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Maybe newer coaches have the feature of not allowing the fridge lite when the key is off, but my old '87 Itasca does not.
There is a requirement that all sources of ignition like RV refrigerators and heaters be turned off when fueling. Most stations (not all) in Az. have a sign posted.
The newer coaches with diesels have physically larger in size and usually more amp output than older gas rigs do. Even so alternators are not designed to run near max rated output so if you run the fridge, dash a/c, lights, charge coach batteries, etc. you could be shorting the life of your alternator.
No way would I consider running the fridge off the alternator in my 87 Itasca as the original style Chevy alternator doesn't even like charging the coach batteries.
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Old 09-07-2010, 10:48 PM   #27
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My 88 Lance Camper had it and our 86 Western Wilderness has it as well. Check the manfactured date on the refer, and or your owners manual. Itasce may have wired around it, but I think it's there and not active. And again, maybe I'm wrong. I know our 2004 Alpenlite 5th wheel had it. This would be for RV type refers only.

Hmmm, I have never calculated the output of the Alternators on my coach, but I know it is rated for 165 amp output. The refer only uses around 700 watts running and around 900 to start or so, so it's not putting too much load on it. If it ever fails, there is a way to rebuild it and make it a 200A output which is what I will do. So far no troubles. It helps to have 8 6V batteries with 225AH rating backing up the draw of the inverter to run the fridge.
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Old 09-14-2010, 09:18 AM   #28
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The amp rating on my Norcold 1200 is 5.5 amps @ 120v. On mine, the 3.85 amps you mentioned is DC amps and is in addition to the AC amps.
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