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Old 12-04-2018, 01:25 AM   #43
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I replaced the 6 cu ft Dometic with a 9.1 cu ft Nova Kool last summer. Fit into the same cabinet. NK is a 12 Volt DC Dan Foss compressor fridge. I boondock year round. It uses 5.2 amps and has a battery saver feature. It won’t draw the batteries down past the point where the generator won’t start. I only have 2 golf cart batteries and 472 watts of solar. It may stop running about 4 am but by the time we're up the sun has it running again.

One of the best advantages is that I no longer have to be paranoid about being level. Being out of level won’t damage the cooling unit. Personally I think it has the best features of an RV and residential fridge combined. And no inverter required.

Nova Kool RFU9000 9.1 CU FT DC Only Two Door Refrigerator & Freezer
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Old 12-04-2018, 06:05 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by okmunky View Post
...NK is a 12 Volt DC Dan Foss compressor fridge. ...
Sounds like it works well for you. A little pricey, but still cheaper than an LP/Elec unit and freedom from level is a great feature of compressor units.

Just to set the record straight, a Danfoss is actually a two speed, AC compressor that comes with its own built in inverter. For an extra $100 or so you can get the same unit that offers both DC and AC connections. > 20 cu ft residential units draw 90 watts average so I bet your Danfoss draws less than 65 watts average over a 24 hour period.
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Old 12-04-2018, 09:34 AM   #45
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Sounds like it works well for you. A little pricey, but still cheaper than an LP/Elec unit and freedom from level is a great feature of compressor units.

Just to set the record straight, a Danfoss is actually a two speed, AC compressor that comes with its own built in inverter. For an extra $100 or so you can get the same unit that offers both DC and AC connections. > 20 cu ft residential units draw 90 watts average so I bet your Danfoss draws less than 65 watts average over a 24 hour period.
They were originally designed for marine use so it has safety latches built into the door hinges for travel that are also monkey proof. No more bungee cords holding the doors closed.
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Old 12-04-2018, 09:38 AM   #46
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Also suck a lot more power
Might want to check that - mine uses much less!
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Old 12-04-2018, 02:17 PM   #47
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Our Sammy 18 replaced a Damnetic 1492.. power draw (with ice maker turned off) uses a bit less than the absorption .With ice maker turned on.. uses a bit more power.
I have a gen set, And I have no issues using it..
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Old 12-04-2018, 06:28 PM   #48
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After reading all these posts, I have to add one thing. I ave a NORCOLD side by side in my Zephyr and made the mistake of replacing it when it went bad with another just like it, at a cost of $4100. I could not see how a home fridge would work, but I was very wrong. Now 1.5 years into the new one I have had several problems with the ice maker as well as shutting down for no reason. Getting into Camping World is a non issue in an emergency, especially for warranty work.. Fridge does not freeze ice cream at all. Love my coach but would advise against replacement with other than a house fridge. Don't make my mistake.
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Old 12-05-2018, 10:06 AM   #49
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Thanks for the "long winded" summary.


I like the one about the dog.


"I don’t know if you know this... if your dog were to sleep with their butt near the LP detector..and have gas during the night...you will be awakened by the horrible alarm. Not a problem in our all-electric unit."
I have heard a lot of jokes blaming the dog for peoples farts, but this one is a new one.
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Old 12-06-2018, 08:46 AM   #50
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Danfoss Refrigerator

Ok, now I am more educated. A "Danfoss refrigerator" is not a Danfoss brand refrigerator. It is a refrigerator with a Danfoss brand compressor in it. See this link for a long explanation of it.
http://www.truckcamperadventure.com/...nd-a-few-tips/
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Old 12-06-2018, 10:36 AM   #51
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The bottom line - There are 2 advantages to a DC compressor unit vs an ammonia absorption fridge - increased capacity in the same space and not being damaged by out of level parking.

The advantages over a residential unit are lower energy use, they are designed to be in moving vehicles (door latches and cabinet mounts), often no carpentry involved and you don’t void the warranty by putting one in your RV.

A residential is larger capacity and cheaper. If you don’t boondock, I'd say choose a residential. If you do a DC compressor unit beats ammonia.
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Old 12-06-2018, 12:39 PM   #52
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With our Residential fridge which we love we can get about two days on batteries and then have to recharge.
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Old 12-06-2018, 08:49 PM   #53
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Every so often I feel the pain when I read reports like this Camey's Last Ride...... Knowing the RV fridge is a real threat, people are still hesitant to change it over...
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Old 12-07-2018, 07:20 AM   #54
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If you could get a 20 cuft Danfoss it would use 180AH/24 hours...from their info. My 21 EnergyStar Whirlpool uses 9 amps (measured before the inverter) and runs 11hours/day...99AH. Why would I settle for a smaller refer that uses more power??? A Danfoss cooled refrigerator is good for boondocking but a residential is not???

The Danfoss compressor is a 20 year old design. A lot has changed in 20 years with EnergyStar refrigerators.
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Old 12-07-2018, 12:56 PM   #55
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My 9.1 cu ft fridge uses 5.2 amps according to my Trimetric battery monitor. It runs less than 20% of the time. That works out to 25 amp hours per day. Since most of the power is used during the day, my solar panels replace much of those amps used rather than the charge controller discarding them as excess.

My math says a 20 cu ft would use ~ 55 amp hours/day. So which of us is better at math?
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Old 12-08-2018, 07:24 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by okmunky View Post
My 9.1 cu ft fridge uses 5.2 amps according to my Trimetric battery monitor. It runs less than 20% of the time. That works out to 25 amp hours per day. Since most of the power is used during the day, my solar panels replace much of those amps used rather than the charge controller discarding them as excess.
My math says a 20 cu ft would use ~ 55 amp hours/day. So which of us is better at math?
It’s not a math question, it’s a AH/day question. I went to the Danfoss website and used their graph that only went to 10 cuft and 90 AH/day so I doubled the #s as the graph was fairly linear at the larger sizes.
I did not know that a Trimetric had a KW feature...AHs used over time. You might want to put a KW meter on it since it’s so quiet you can’t always tell when it’s running with the variable speed compressor...or so their website says. 20% of the time

I agree that a Danfoss is a better option in the small sizes as the apartment size 120V units are not EnergyStar rated.

PS: before going residential I researched the “great” Danfoss compressors and between the small size, large $$, and not great power #s I opted for a PSW inverter and a EnergyStar refrigerator giving me more size for less $$ since we dry camp a fair amount:
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